SteveJ

I hope some of you are able to come out to the event.

The fusible link is easy to replace. It connects between the starter and the wiring harness. The most time consuming part is removing & replacing the nut on the starter where the ring for the link lands. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4332 http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catWiring.php

Could you have reversed polarity somewhere? LEDs don't like reversed polarity.

Very true. I put the part number in a post in the Sold on LEDs thread. It was the Bussmann 232.

To be pedantic (a trait that I'm good at ), LEDs have high resistance and low current. An incandescent bulb is a piece of wire that glows because of low resistance and relatively high current. As you noted, the Z does not monitor resistance in lighting circuits, so there are no worries about using LEDs. Though, I believe LED vendors are also selling devices to fool the onboard systems that do monitor resistance. It would essentially be a bypass for the circuit.

Matt, look for my Sold on LEDs thread. Replacing the incandescent bulbs with LEDs will drop current flow through the circuit greatly. Also consider getting the parking light relay harness from Dave Irwin, aka Zs-Ondabrain. Also, unless you have more fuse boxes lying around, you might need to get the replacement fuse box from MSA.

I bought some 2 inch vent hose from a vendor on Amazon a while back. It worked well for me.

Do you frequently respond to conversation topics long after everybody else has moved on to other discussions?

If you want to avoid the hassles in swapped parts, Rockauto is probably as good as if not better than the chain parts stores.

Specifically, focus on the EF section of the FSM.

Sometimes it will say that, but it will come back later as NLA. I suggest trying, but don't get your hopes up.

I changed the oil, washed the car, and replaced the horn relay today. The car is pretty much as ready as she'll be for the Mitty on Friday.

Your fuel pump is losing power when the ignition switch goes from Start to Run. When you start your car, the coil on the start side of the Engine Fuel Injection Relay is energized, providing power to the fuel pump. When the key goes to the Run position, another coil on the same relay is energized provided that the relay also receives the signal that the engine is running. All you have to do is read through the references I listed earlier, and you'll be on track to solve your problem.

That sounds like a good start.

Look at the Electronic Fuel Injection Relay. That is where the power for the fuel pump comes from. Go to http://www.xenons30.com/reference and download the 75 FSM (2 links on the page). Go to the following link to get a copy of the wiring diagram: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm.

Not enough insulation. How old are the wires? Could the center wire be nicked somewhere?

There isn't a need if you ordered the extra hardware.

Car & Driver tested the 78 coupe & did a Short Take on the 2+2. Source: http://www.amazon.com/Driver-Datsun-1966-84-Brooklands-Series/dp/0948207515/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335272844&sr=8-1

I'll be there all three days. Look for the Datsun flag.

Just giving a bump to remind people that the show is 2 weeks away.

Are you sure the switch on the back of the ignition switch isn't out of alignment/going bad? Rockauto has them.

For the ignition switch: http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-201-1179-Ignition-Assembly/dp/B000CB246K/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1335104896&sr=1-1 The combo switch is the switch that controls the headlights & wiper. Some also refer to the blinker switch as part of the combo switch since it controls the high beam/low beam circuits. By the way, Rockauto still has a couple of the headlight switches left for $157 + S&H. Look through the FSM and also look at http://www.Carpartsmanual.com for a breakdown of parts. That will help you identify the parts you need to look for.

Then for the dash lights, examine the rheostat.

No, I was looking at the correct area. If you note on the attached section from the wiring diagram. It does not show a wire from the relay going to the connector to meet with the LR wire. I believe that is in error.

If you're worried about ratings, just go with a couple of 30A or 50A relays. Amazon has plenty of SPDT relays with these ratings. You just have to remove and discard the /b (normally closed) contact. The voltage is going to be 12 VDC. These cars didn't play around much with voltage signals. In testing/inspecting the relay, it would probably be smart to do this with the cover off. In examining the wiring diagram I think I may have found an error in the drawing, as there are 6 wires in the plug going to the harness, but only 5 are used. My best guess is that the BW & LR wires energize the coils. The WR wires bring 12VDC to the wipers, and the LW & WB wires go out the rest of the harness. If you have trouble figuring out how to test it, send me a PM with your phone number, and I can walk you through it.