SteveJ

It looks like I can get the terminals through Digikey or similar supplier. I'm just not sure whether or not the MIC connectors I can find will work with the Mk-I terminals.

The color is 110. Jai sold it to my friend. Frankly, I thought it was a parts car, but he is slowly resurrecting it.

So I was trying to be creative with some wiring for headlight relays in a 78 280Z. When I looked at the terminals in connectors C-2 and C-4, I realized it wasn't going to be so easy. The male terminals are 2.8mm, but they aren't like the typical 2.8mm terminals you find in a 240Z. Between the crimp and the flat area of the terminal, there are side walls. I haven't seen this type terminal before. Does anybody know a name for them? @Captain Obvious?

Here are some progress pictures I took today for the restoration of RedWing.

Yep, it's in the BAT thread, too. That business OBVIOUSLY does not do drug testing on its employees because whoever is setting the prices on their cars is on crack.

They replace the old 2-prong round can flashers that you are used to seeing. No wiring, no fuss, no muss, no stress. You need two. One for the turn signal circuit and one for the hazard light circuit.

I've had that meter for over 20 years now. It was a Christmas gift from my late mother based on a suggestion from my brother. I tend to use a clamp on ammeter on the car similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SQ4UETO. It's not precise at all, but it also won't blow up if you have too much current or if you don't have the polarity right. It's great to find a battery drain. Just look on Amazon for test lead kits. The Fluke kits are not cheap, but they are good.

So, you have voltage at the coil, though if you are measuring it where I asked, the wiring is not going through the ballast resistor. You need to see if the distributor is triggering the transistor ignition unit (TIU) and if the TIU is working. Download the factory service manual (link in my signature) for the 76, and look at the EE section, starting with page EE-32. That has the diagnostics you need.

Um, you still aren't reporting good data. I asked for voltage, and you gave a resistance reading. This is how things should be configured: 1. Connect one lead to coil positive. 2. Connect the other lead to ground (strut tower is good for this). It should look like this all together. 3. Have the meter on voltage. 4. Turn the key on. You should see around 9 volts. I have my ballast resistor jumpered out, so my reading is higher.

If the meter was reading 0 Ohms when touched across the ballast resister, that means the ballast resister is just a small piece of wire. A bad resister would register as an open line or very high resistance. Just to be clear, you should be measuring from the black/white wire to the wire going to the positive on the coil. Let me be clear on what I asked before. What is the voltage to ground at the positive terminal of the coil when the key is in the ON position? To go back to one of @Zed Head's posts, did you flush out the old gas and put in new gas? Trying to run the car on 12 year old gas is not a formula for success.

If it started with starting fluid and died, you probably have more than one problem. You have a problem with the ballast resistor or the ignition switch. You have spark when the key is in start. Otherwise the car wouldn't start on the starting fluid. When you release the key, a bad switch causes you to lose spark, or a fault in the circuit is causing you to lose voltage at the coil (sometimes the ballast resistor). Also it could be that you are using up the starting fluid you sprayed in (See #2). It doesn't sound like the injectors are firing, so you don't have fuel. That could also (in part) be from a bad ignition switch. As suggested, download the FSM and the wiring diagram. Get started with a voltmeter. If you don't know how to use a voltmeter or read a wiring diagram, then find a friend who knows how to do so.

Your wiring diagram looks correct. Of course, you can look at the factory wiring diagram by downloading the FSM from this site. The condenser goes to the positive of the coil. Make sure the B/W wires are not touching anything (wrap with electrical tape). Put the key in ON. Use a voltmeter (or test light) to measure voltage to ground (I like the strut tower nuts for ground.) on the B/W wires. The one with voltage goes to the ballast resistor.

I like the adjustable flashers myself. I've used these for years: https://www.amazon.com/Audew-Electronic-Signal-Flasher-Motorcycle/dp/B011BTMDQM

If you want to see what is out there: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/sizes/results.jsp?diameter=14

Just browsing Tire Rack: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Cooper&tireModel=Cobra+Radial+G%2FT&partnum=17TR4CRGTRWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

When you put it that way, all of the above, and I feel the same way you do.

Why not both? And, yes, I know who he is.

24012-8323 is not a valid Nissan part number. Even adding an "E" to the second part doesn't seem to bring up anything except an ebay listing that cannot be correct as there were wiring harness changes between 71 and 72 and 73 that would cause issues if you didn't have the correct harness. 24102-E8303 would be for a car built in June 71 that started off its life as an automatic. 24102-E8300 would be for a car built in June 71 that started off its life as a manual.

You'll have issues with the headlights if you use a later harness. Also, the wiring for the fuse box won't line up right. Those are two things off the top of my head. One time I was helping someone get rid of some electrical gremlins in a 71. A previous owner had cut many wires, so the guy working on the car swapped in a 72 dash harness. Lord, that took me quite a while to debug.

Part numbers can be found here: https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/wiring/to-jul-76

Probably the easiest way is to use the extractor tools they have on the website: http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Tools. Get the set as you will have both 2.8 mm and 6.3 mm terminals that you may want to back out. The terminals have little tabs on them that hook inside the shells. You depress the tab with the extractor tool. It helps to push the wire in a little first. After you get the tab pushed down, you can pull the wire out.

This is my preferred style of crimper to use on the terminals for the connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1JQ1UE/

When it comes to expertise, I'm full of it...wait...that didn't sound right.

No need for load resistors. The Z doesn't check for burned out lights.

2020 SUCKS!