solly

Adding an update here: I haven't found the root of the issue. I keep the car at my parent's house, so it's not always easily accessible, but I'm thinking that maybe a brake line got kinked a bit during installation. I plan to check those next. If I don't find anything there, I will switch to the old booster and see what, if anything, changes.

Sorry about that--I never removed the check valve, but have validated that it functions properly.

I did not, but I didn't install any new rotors. I'll try cleaning the current rotos, maybe I got some brake fluid on them

Great questions, When the bleeder valve is open, the pedal does go to the floor and squirts a bunch of fluid. There is the same amount of pedal travel when each caliper is bled (and when the MC is bled) The car slows down, but it takes more time than usual. There's a chance there is something on the pads, I can look into that a bit more. Would you have any thoughts as to why the pedal goes to the floor when bleeding but doesn't move much when I am actually trying to slow down? My thought is that the low brake pressure comes from the pushrod not fully actuating the master cylinder, but I have NO clue why that's not happening. Thanks for the help! This is my first forum post, haha.

I've got a few issues with my brakes, and would love some further help. I'm pretty confused at this point. Originally, I was having an issue where I would brake, but require a bit of pumping to slow down at higher speeds. I replaced the booster with a new one from Zcardepot, and bled the brakes and master cylinder. When I bleed the brakes, the pedal goes all the way to the floor, but once the system is closed up, I have extremely minimal pedal travel, with not much braking pressure (I assume because the booster pushrod isn't pushing all the way through the master cylinder). That said, I've adjusted my pushrod length, thinking that it was perhaps too long, causing the system to be preloaded. This caused the pedal to have a longer travel (barely), but had a significant dead zone before starting to slow down like it usually does (not much stopping force). I have Wilwood Forged Superlight front calipers with 2-piece rotors, Wilwood 4 piston rear calipers with functioning parking brake, Tilton adjustable brake proportioning valve. I'm using a wilwood tandem master cylinder. Not that it makes much of a difference, but I've got a Ford 302 motor, generating about 18 mmhg, plenty of vacuum for the booster. Does anyone have any thoughts or ideas as to what might be going on? My only thought now could be a faulty master cylinder, but I'm 90% positive the seals are totally good there. Thanks in advance!