Rkroel

Thanks for the input guys. Ryan

I was just looking at her site actualy, I assume its a call and she looks up the part # type of deal? Thanks again, Ryan

Thats kind of what I feared. Are there any Nissan Dealers that offer discounts to classicZclub members or any such club? Alot of the Toyota dealerships do that for the various Supra organizations. Thanks for the info, Ryan

Hello all, Has anyone used the Too Intense weather-strip kit? It less than the other kits I have seen from MSA, VB etc. Is there a reason? Is there a higher quality set out of the various companies who offer them? Thanks, Ryan

Thanks for the positive words :classic: We plan on fixing it ASAP. Ryan

Okay just got off of the phone with Optima. I asked what they recommend when mounting one of their batteries inside a vehicle. "With any battery it is necessary to provide vent tubes and some kind of sealed container, however Optima batteries will not begin to vent or discharge unless overcharged" So in effect he said officially yes, but you don't really need to. I think I will try to find a sealed container (possibly from a boating store) but if nothing turns out to be convenient I will just mount it open. Ryan

Great, thanks. Ill look into it. I was going to go by one anyways to get the cables. Ryan

Thanks for the info guys. I know its not pretty. Ryan

, no im not the fat dork. But it appears that there are scrapes leading up to the gash. Could be a coincidence. Oh well, what can you do about previous owner stupidity? Thanks Ryan

No cigar right now , but I can get you a cuban if I head down to mexico :beard: Several good points again, thank you. Springs: I will be switching to coil-overs very soon with no consideration of driver's weight. This means that placing the battery opposite of that weight will be a good thing :classic: Weight gain: Well between the cabling and any additional mounting hardware that may be required I could see a gain of maybe 5 lbs top. A good portion of this gain would be in the new, longer cables. This is okay thought because these cables will be run along the Z (heh) axis of the car. That is with the x axis running off to the left and right of the driver, the y axis being vertical and the z axis running front to rear. By running these cables along the center line of the car (z axis) it takes out a whole chunk of the COM, COG, and torque equations. After all that blabber it basicaly means it won't add up enough to undo the substantial loss in rotational inertia by moving the considerable mass of the battery closer to the origen. That is the crossing of x,y, and z axes, IE the COM of the car. Right between the seats more or less. Thanks again, keep those thoughts coming. Ryan

Your right! hehe. Yes it is a 240. Difference in weight between a standard lead-acid battery and an Optima sealed battery? Hrm. Using the power of my perfectly calibrated memory functioning off my perfectly calibrated hand-scales I would say the Optima is a tad bit lighter than a standard battery. One thing to note is the Optima is quite a bit smaller in dimension, and that is the full size version. They have quite a product line, which includes several smaller dimensioned batteries. Ryan

Hello all, just purchased a '71 240Z in good shape save for one thing. This: Another view: This spot is located in the vicinity of the red circle: Can anyone provide some insight into the seriousness of this encounter with a foreign object? It does not look like the rust has spread too far, but my opinion is definitely not an experienced one. Thanks again for your help. Ryan

Yeah, but pretty good is exactly that. Pretty good. Better is always, well...better :classic: Every little bit counts, right? Good idea as far as putting it in the tool box, I assume that is supposed to be behind one of the seats? Looks like there is a tab for something to mount there. My car obviously has nothing there :cross-eye Right now I am leaning towards behind the passenger seat *LHD car* as close to the transmission tunnel as possible. That way I can keep the spare and it also puts the battery extremely close to the COM of the car. Thanks for the ideas Ryan

Yes, Optimas are wonderful. Ive been running one in my Supra for about a year now. Ive heard stories of them lasting 7 years+

I posted this over on the Hybrid forums, but double exposure never hurts: Hey all, I did not find much searching so here is my question: I am going to switch to an Optima dry cell and I would like to mount it in the rear. I am looking for suggestions on how to mount it securely and where. I am thinking either up against the metal lip right behind the seats or in the spare tire well. My reasoning for the first location is to reduce rotational inertia in the horizontal plane. The second is kind of the standard location and increases rear wheel traction and lowers the COG of the car. Ideally I would like to keep the spare, which is obviously not possible if I place it in the spare tire well. If anyone has pictures of their setup that would be perfect. Thanks Ryan

Has anyone used this company before? Does anyone have any other recommendations? TIA. Ryan

Great, thanks for the link. Odd name, I almost took it as a joke before I visited the site. Thanks again. Ryan

Ahhh! I wondered what the other side of the clip on the lapbelt was. Thanks for posting those pictures! Ryan

Great, thanks for the info! Ill go take a look at the car and peruse JC witneys website. Ill let you know if I find anything of interest. -Ryan

Replacing 30 year old belts with 30 year old belts doesn't fix my problem unfortunately. Adding the shoulder belt would be good, but wouldn't do much if it broke. Which is why I am looking for newly produced solutions. Thanks Ryan

Inadequate indeed. I read somewhere that the shoulder belts are removable. I wasn't alive when they first came out so I can't confirm that. -Ryan

Hello all. I searched the forums and was unable to come up with a solution I am satisfied with. I just purchased a '71 240z, with lap belts only. I am not willing to take the risk of driving around with lap belts only, especially with family members or my girlfriend in the car. So as a result I am trying to either: A) Replace the lap belts that are 30+ years old and Install shoulder belts Or Replace the whole system with a harness or a new shoulder/lap setup. I read somewhere that the shoulder belt is optional and will clip -onto the lap belt. Can a _new_ set of these be purchased somewhere? I have not found anything. Someone also hinted at being able to retrofit belts out of a late model Z? The car has an MSA style bolt in roll bar; I do not like the idea of bolting a restraint system onto something that is bolted in it’s self. On the same note I would not want to bolt it to a strut bar either. What are my options without going for a full cage? Thanks in advance for your help, and if I have missed anything in the forums feel free to point me in that direction. :stupid: -Ryan

Thanks for the input guys. This morning I talked to him, started at $1200 and ended up at $1400. At that point basically told him a car like that is only worth $700-$1200 so he should think about my offer and I will call him back on sunday. I would pay 2k for this car if I was on the east coast, however im in a place that is about as dry as you can get in the US. Ryan

Yes its in a very dry part of the country. My main problem is the guy is a real bear and is asking 2.4k and saying he won't take anything under 2k for it. Not going to pay that much for it, so we shall see.

Hey guys, im looking at a late Series 1 Z car and need some more input before I make my decision. Pictures: www.bastuds.com/240z Higher quality pics can be posted if it will help. Here is what I know about the car/have found out. Floorboards are perfect, rust free. Spare tire well is perfect, rust free. Car is an automatic Passenger side has a little bit of rust bubbling in front of the rear tire - it seems solid to me but I am no expert on older cars. See pictures Battery tray is in good condition except there is a hole where the front passenger side corner of the tray is. The hole is in sheetmetal, but is not in a corner. The hole is visible if you look up past the pass. side tire. The car has the original paint on it & it looks very good in the interior. Outside is faded (car is in the southwest and has been here its whole life) The engine started with a little bit of coaxing by sucking gas out of a can. Owner says it needs fuel lines, I would guess it needs fuel lines/filter/pump/tank cleaning. Oil leak out of the valve cover gasket (see pictures) Car is an auto(I know I said that already...:classic: ) Body seems to be in great condition aside from the two problem areas. The dash is cracked, the interior soft stuff is gone. Seats are decent. Previous owner installed a single webber DGV. The car is on its third owner, this guy has owned it for 6 months (it sat during those six months) See the pictures for more details. I have the mechanical skills to do anything and everything to the car besides body work and paint. I also have a '73 Z sitting in the back yard with 2.5 extra motors and a set of round top SU's to replace that awful single DGV. Any thoughts? Thanks for any help. RK