Zs-ondabrain
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Posts posted by Zs-ondabrain
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The Sun was also out here but it was still kinda chilly. But Sunny enough that I could bear it and finally instal the New MSD 6AL. Seemed like it took forever cause it was cold.
Got her all hooked up and layed a Posi-Patch thru the local intersection, it kicked sideways so I decided to take a left. It was a blast. Wish I had a spot like you, to take a decent "Scenary Shot"
Great Pictures Randy!!
Dave
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Actually Mike, You might know him. His name is Ken and he lives in Port Orchard. He drives a Beautiful Cream Yellow 240Z. He was at Golden Gardens with us last year.
Maybe, maybe not.
Gary Saling is interested in one of them as well as he really needs a new dash. Gary's car is a 71 and the dashes are both 72's but I think Gary is willing to comprimise at this point.
Dave.
Kens pics below
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Use Page 24 of the PDF above.
Orange to Coil (+)
Black to Coil (-)
Red to Black/white wire from the coil
White to the wire from the neg wire from the coil.
The Purple and green are not used.
The E12-80's © wire is the one connected to the white wire
The (
wire on the E12-80 is connected to the Red MSD wire and the Black white from the CoilPut a Jumper between the 2 wires on the Ballast resistor. The E12-80 doesn't need it.
You will need an MSD Tach Adaptor. It's red wire to the Small red or the MSD box and the White to the White MSD box
I think the above is correct but use the PDF as a guide.
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Edited by Zs-ondabrain
It's easy to turn your sidemarkers into blinkers.
Connect a wire to the Blinker wire from the front markers (green/red (L) & green/black ®
Disconnect the black ground wire on your sidemarkers and connect the black wire from the sidemarker to the Turn signal wire noted above.
The sides will blink in tandom when the parking lights are OFF and they will blink in a "Flip-Flop" when the Parking lights are ON. Just MAKE SURE the sidemarkers are isolated from the body, by using the rubber seal. Use an ohms meter to make sure the screws are not touching the metal of the sidemarker as well.
Leave the ground coming from the engine harness hanging, it's no longer needed. It's this easy.
Dave.
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That actually sounds pretty damn familiar.
ME - "Hunny, I found a motor and tranny in Monroe for only $400"
Wife - "Isn't that a lot of Money?"
ME - " Nope, it's a totally rebuild, low miles 260Z motor with a rebuilt tranny"
Wife - "Can we afford that right now"
ME - "Yup, Remember all those harness's I just built? I'll even have money left over"
Wife - "Okee Dokee, it's Your money, you earned it and if you think you can afford it, Go for it"
Me - "Great, I love you, I'll be back in about 2 hours, hopefully"
3 hour later............
I pull up behind my buddy who is driving a tow truck, with the whole damn Z and she's looking out the window with THAT look on her face.
ME - "UH.... Hi hunny.....?"
Wife - "What the hell is that?"
ME - "Our new 260Z????" on my knees... "PLEEAASSEE, Let me keep it, it followed me home"
Wife - "HOW MUCH??"
ME - "The car was only $150"
Wife - "I thought you said $400?"
Me - "I did, the motor and tranny IN THE CAR was $400 and the rest of it was another $150"
Wife - "Fine, you can keep it, Smart arse. But you OWE me a full back massage and dinner away from the kids"
Me - " Wait a minute, How do I....... Yes dear" I WUVVVV YOU!!!!
Wife - " Shut up, you weirdo, and get off your knees, the neighbors are watching"
YES dear.........
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The white wire that goes to the starter connects to the Amp meter and the fusebox. My guess is that the wire is grounded near the fusebox or at the amp gauge. I've seen it happen before.
The insulator on the Amp guage wears out and the post that holds the white wire, contacts the frame or housing and smokes the wire. You should have an inline fuse or fusable link on the white wire, at the starter.
Here's how to find where the short is. Find where the white wire comes thru the firewall, there should be a single connector, up near the underside of the dash, that connects the white wire to the Dash harness. Disconnect it right there.
Use and Ohm meter to find where it's grounding by grounding one of the test leads and touching the other test lead to the white wire coming from the firewall. If the meter moves, the grounding is between the connector and the starter and easily replaced.
If the nothing happens when you test that wire, test the other connector that goes up into the dash. If the meter moves, the wire is grounding up in the dash somewhere. Reach up there and disconnect the white wire from the Amp gauge. This is harder because I think you'll need to remove the glove box in order to reach the connections back there. If you find that the problem is at the Gauge, you'll likely need to replace the Amp gauge.
The white wire that comes away from the ampgauge goes to the fusebox, so if the meter appears to not be the problem, then the issue is between the amp gauge and the fuse box. There are a lot of sharp edges in the 240Z, to cut into wiring, and hands if you're not carefull.
Dave.
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1) When we go out to dinner, I park the car wher I can see it while dining.
2) I use the drive thru rather than go in the bank.
3) I have NEVER left the car outside over night. I stays in the garage. Period...
4) When I go to the grocery store store, I park as close to the front door as possible. This way, if anything happens, Everyone will notice the Classic Red Datsun being messed with. It sorta begs to be watched, by everyone.
Paranoid, NO, Cautious, Yes. Concerned about something I've put years of blood sweat and tears into, YES. If my wife had 4 wheels and a steering wheel, I'd still be the same way. It's perfectly natural to worry about the things you love.
Dave.
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And that's almost the whole idea. I bought it for the kids. But they LOVE to Jam with their Dad. It's a bonding thing and it keeps the kids busy on those crappy Washington days when the homework and housework is done.
They have a choice though, Challenge dad, or clean their rooms... Hehehe
That's ok Tom, we'll play with ourselves, you know what that's like, right?
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There is a small step in the upper rear mounting ear that is impossible to replicate using ABS, but it's not needed.
Not impossible at all, I make them all the time. I just use a pencil torch, heat the straight line, put it on the edge of the work bench, and give it a slight twist, then blow on it till it holds form. Doesn't take much heat at all to get it to move. And the bend keeps the speaker from rubbing the panel too much, like the stock plate on the left side.
I'll make you one if you want. $5 plus a buck to ship it to ya.
Dave.
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When I need a break from building the 240Z upgrades, I'll go down, turn the stereo up to 11 and rip out a couple songs. My 2 favorites are Lay Down and Hills Of Dover. I play on Medium. And as someone stated earlier, my daughter has also caught on fast. She's on Medium as well and catching up with me.
Then again, she has time to practice, I don't. I play "Guitar Hero III - Legends of Rock."
Dave
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Edited by Zs-ondabrain
They typically shredded after the first decent movement in years, due to the paper cone and dried out Butyl Surround. Turn it up and it falls apart.
The 240Z's came with grill holes in each rear panel as a precautionary/pre-emtive move. That way, if they decided to add a second speaker at the factory, the holes were already there and a new design was not needed. The Metal bracket is essencially a metal ring with fingers to bolt into the lower corner with 3 screws.
I've personally never seen a right side bracket. So I made one out of 1/8" ABS plastic, It works great and looks stock.
Here's a shot of my 260Z speaker and bracket. You can see the cracked speaker as mentioned above. Keep in mind that the speaker is almost 35 years old. Pretty, ain't it?
Dave.
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Edited by Zs-ondabrain
I guess I'm gonna have to get a Stop Watch and get some real world times for My Z. Or maybe even get a light weight passenger to hit the bottons and watch the times.
I need to get her tuned up and do another Dyno, now that I have the ignition and Triples. The previous Dyno was on untuned S.U.'s and an E12-80 Dizzy and no muffler. for the XBOX 360 game. FORZA Motorsport 2
http://forzamotorsport.net/news/carculture/dyno06-1.htm
http://forzamotorsport.net/news/carculture/dyno06-quiz-results.htm
That was a while ago and a fricken Blast.
Dave.
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Hey, I feel ya. Every time I go down to the garage and have to look at the 260Z sitting there with it's butt in the air, It makes me a little upset that I haven't had time to do ANYthing for over a month. Although it's been nice keeping busy building upgrades to help everyone else. But I'm not getting anything done.
Dave.
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And I don't think there was ever a Solid Mast antenna in the Z's. Took me a while just to type this.... Just got off a 2 hour skit of Guitar Hero. My 11 year old daughter was kicking my butt, so I had to show her who was boss.
Now my fingers are all cramped and I have harness's to build, darn it.
I'll just let Arne fill in from here, he knows the Original Equipment better than I do.
Arne's on the ball,
Dave.
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Edited by Zs-ondabrain
Ok, I had a look and here's what I found:
Coming out of the radio:
Behind the "tune" switch, there are 3 wires that terminate at a 3-prong connector: Blue / White; Blue; and Blue / Red. Leave them plugged into the connector that goes to the back of the car.
I believe the "tune" switch controls the antenna up/down? It does.
Back of the radio, there is:
- one Red / Blue wire Illumination wire, connect it to a red/blue wire in the dash
- a paired set - Gray; Gray / Blue Most likely speaker outputs, if there is only 2 wires (grey and grey/blue) only connect one speaker, you may blow the radio's internal amp if you hook both up.
- a single Blue wire that terminates at a 3 prong connector. Coming out of the connector (not connected to the radio) is a Gray and a Gray / Blue wire The blue wire goes to the ignition wire, that powers up when you turn the key to ACC. The grey wires are likely to the stock speaker from 35 years ago. Ignore them.
From the back of the car:
- 2 pairs of wires: Green and Green / Blue; Gray and Gray / Blue - I believe these pairs are for the speakers? Pick one set to connect to the radio's grey (+) and grey/blue (-) wires
There are also some other miscellaneous wires - a clear wire, a black wire...not sure what they are, but this is most of it. The black might be a ground but follow it to make sure. The stock radio is grounded by bolting it into the car, correctly. Follow the clear as well. see where it goes.
Any ideas? Sorry if this sounds stupid, I really know squat when it comes to electrical stuff It's hard to figure out where a rat got everything he uses to make his nest but if you take your time, you'll figure it out.
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Dave:
Gerat stuff there.
My 260 is a very early 1974 delivered in Oct 1973.
Do I need, or do you have, or do you do any kits for it. I am thinking it would be plus after I get my 105 alternator in and allow me to run better lights for the occassional evening drive home.
Thanks again.
Hopefully I can stop you right there. The 240Z as well as the 260Z's electrical system was designed for a 40 amp altrernator. You go and put 105 amps thru the system and you're just asking for trouble. Oliver at Z-Specialties can say all he wants about the benifits but I've seen the end results of a system that is not prepared for 160% more amperage tha stock.
You're now running a 1000 watt stereo system, 100 watt H4's, Foglights, driving lights, Neon, motorized accesories, Dual batteries, etc, etc. The most you need is the 280ZX 60 amp alternator. It bolts right in, it's not such a big shock to the system, and it looks totally stock. I'll help ya thru it.
The 105 alt. won't allow you to run better lights until you upgrade the headlight system with relays, like my set-up, more on that later.
Dave.
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Edited by Zs-ondabrain
My 0 to 60 is about 6 seconds. give or take a second.
Rolling 30 to 60 is about 2 seconds. If I'm in 3rd gear, I can drop it into 1st and top out around 6500, hit second and 60 in about 2 seconds. Sure, my old motor blows a little smoke out the back end, but that's to be expected of a 170K mile motor.
I weigh in around 2400 curb weight. But the 3:90 diff, 225/50ZR16's, 79' ZX 5-speed, Killer ignition set-up, cam, exhaust and all that jazz get me down the road pretty damn fast. Ya, it may seem faster than it really is but the look on most Honda drivers faces is precious to take in, when this little red bullet wipes the pavement with their face.
Funny thing is.. With all this performance, I also get 27MPG on the freeway. I love the 5 speed.
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Your stock 260Z motor puts out about 160 HP at the FW. The cam, ignition, header, Mikuni's, and such should give you another easy 30HP on an N42 head. I Dyno'd mine at 185 at the flywheel and that was on a 240Z (2.4 Liter) with E88 head, header, stage 2 cam, Stock untuned S.U.'s, 280ZX E12-80 distributor, MSD 6A, NGK plugs and wires, 2.5" exhaust and the bottom end is totally stock. It's all top end changes.
If I were to bore it out and do the 0.030 over pistons, ring, bearings, lightened flywheel and all that, I'd easily topple the 200 mark. My Triple Webers would love to play in that Playground!!! I'd be buying new tires every season. But that's just me.
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Edited by Zs-ondabrain
In your Z, the brake lights and turn signals in the rear are the same thing. They both use the same wire that goes thru the Hazard andturn signal switch.
When you make a left turn, the switch disconnects the brake wire and reroutes it thru the Turn signal flasher, making the left brake light flash. The brake wire runs from the barke pedal switch to the turn signal, then the switch splits the signal and sends it to the Hazard switch and back out to the left and right taillight.
This is what I do for a living. Your first post was explained well and I understood it. Check the T/S switch as well as the hazard switch. Most people forget or don't know that the brakes and turn signals are the same thing and run thru the T/S and hazard switches. ANd now you know. Wasn't that fun.
To check the grounds in the rear, Just use and OHM's meter and connect it to a good shiny metal area and the other test lead to the black wire on the rear harness. You should have a very low reading, like 0 ohms is the best. anything above that and you should start cleaning connectors and maybe even tap the black wire and ground it back there, to a good spot. Use a dremmel to clean a spot of metal, then use a self tapping screw or use a stock bolt to secure the new wire.
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With todays "Know-it-alls", I doubt it'll be gracefull. Most of them have no clue that come June or July of this year, Our Z's will reach their 40th Anniversary..
I actually love finding the "Kid" that doesn't know what a 240Z is. I walk them outside and show them first hand. It typically either blows their mind or they say "OH, OK, I've seen these before" I did'nt know they were related to the 350Z....
Dave.
My 240z project
in Introductions
Ouch!!! Now that devotion, or love of a higher power. I only paid $2800 for the whole car when I bought mine over 6 years ago.
Actually it's more like White Magic, which in some circles, is Stronger than Black Magic. Either way, Look into my upgrades, they'll work on your US based 240Z and make a world of difference on the lights. And I do ship World Wide. Plus a little more for shipping, of coarse.
PM me if you're interested,
Dave.