Zs-ondabrain

A stronger motor on bad linkage will only do more damage to the linkage. Replace the linkage or rebuild it to a tighter state, Lube the pivots, joints and bushings, THEN replace the motor if you still have a problem. I told Hogie to do the same to his linkage. Dave

So what he's saying is the wrong relay caused the problem, the correct relay solved the problem. Everything works as it should. Glad we figured it out. ya kinda threw me for a minute. Black is ground Blue red and green/black are power Black/yellow is Hi speed Blue is low speed (I think) Blue white is the park (I think) Hope that helps Tom Dave

Just an update as it's been a while since I checked in on the write-up. I ordered 30 more after the first 20 sold. Motorsport bought 15 of the new 30. Sold a few others but still have plenty if anyone is interested. $5.00 of each sale will go to the site that the purchaser found the DZ-Start System on. So your purchase thru me, helps CZCC. I will be at Canby this year and will have some on hand to sell to those interested. I'll also be DONATING one for the Canby Awards Ceremony on Sunday Afternoon. Hope to see as many of you as possible. Also, I'm no longer offering the GTR button as part of the sale, BUT Motorsport Auto does sell them and it will slide in and lock into the maxima Bezel with ease. Thanks again to all who have bought one or may buy one, CZCC will be donated to because of your purchase. Email me with any questions you may have. Dave wolfin32z@yahoo.com

Couple things.... Tom, Stick to the subject. He's having issues with MY Honda upgrade relay set-up and a Honda motor. You're just confusing the matter with opther motors from other cars. Hogie, Let me know what you find when you compare the drawing with the actual motor and relay at home. If all else fails, you can send me what you got and I'll make it into a running unit. Free of charge, just cover the shipping back and forth. Dave

Nate, did you get my email? I wrote a big 'ol reply here in this box yesterday, and as I hit "POST" CZCC went down seconds before hand. So the whole damn thing was wasted. Also, I'm not getting ANY emails from CZCC about replies or PM's. Does anyone reading this know why. Do I need to reset something? Mess with my Settings? or is this typical of the new site programming?? Dave

I spent the day building Headlight upgrades for Motorsport Auto, cause as you all know, the dark days of the Rapture will need to be lit up with some good lights from 240Z's Also started on an order of 30 ZXP's, made "The last supper" for the kids, Retipped my wifes Pool stick cause her white plastic tip was cracked. So I installed a replacable screw on type tip. She's happy, and that's what counts when "the End of the World" comes to town. Finished off the day with a glass (or 2) of "The Blood of Christ) Merlot and went to bed. Dave

Bruce, I'm gonna PM you here in a bit. Got a few questions for you. To all others, I'll be there with Leah and the 70' 240Z. We hope to have plenty to offer this year. I'd love to do a Vendor spot but only bringing the Z doesn't allow for the 9'X9' tent AND Product. We were gonna stay the night but we never know what the weather will be like and if we stayed the night, we'd have to bring all the Vendor stuff AND the camping stuff. Not really possible in a 240Z. Guess it's time to make a Tow hitch and and mock up a miny Z shaped trailer??? Maybe? I guess time will tell. But either way, we'll definately be there on Sunday for the show. Dave (and Leah)

Hey, no problem. That's what I'm here for. I think the clearance issue you heard of is when the larger flange is used or when the R200 is too far forward or back. There's always the Bump Stop with the stock mount. That will sit the diff at the correct height. Brian says "Thank You and he still has some in stock" Thanks again guys. Dave

Well guys, Looks like one of our great Vendors/Supporters has picked up the DZ-Start System. If I don't have them in stock, you're more than welcome to try your luck at MSA. But I don't see them keeping the Kit in stock for too long. They'll be flying off the shelves at this rate. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEIC11/12-4250 Dave

I keep getting emails, asking if I have the R/T mounts available. I do not have any at the moment. Brian at Technoversions still has some available that are Powdercoated and come with the ES Urethane bump stop or GM trans mount (Machined to fit your diff correctly) for an additional price. http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html Not trying to bump the thread, just letting all who ask that I do NOT have any, but Brian does. Thank you to Mike for hosting and to all who have purchased from me in the past. Dave

I'm doing 17'x 9.5's in the rear of my 260Z with 17"x 8's in front. I chose Hankook 275/40ZR17 for the rear and 245/45ZR17's for the front. you can follow the process here..... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3195135/1974-datsun-260z/page-4 Don't know if that helps you but there it is... Dave

Thanks for the info. One thing you can look into is a used one from the Junk yard (Pull a part) and see if the auto parts store has a rebuild kit. Simple kit, just clean the hell out of everything. As stated, I bought mine without the resevoirs, about $100 cheaper cause the 280ZX has the electric fluid level tops. And the 240Z Resevoirs squeeze right on there. Thanks again, Dave

Yes, The problem IS all the juice running through the old wiring, with no relays. Which ever you decide, it'll be better than running the headlights without a relay set-up of Some sort. Choose wisely Grasshopper...... I understand the budget, I LIVE on a budget. Dave

use the Search engine here on the site, you'll find that the S30's 240/260/280Z never had Relays on the headlight circuit. the lack of relays means the power of the headlights goes thru the fuse box, wiring, connectors and the combo switch. Lots or amperage cause the wires to overheat. If you had a 240Z, I would suggest my Plug in headlight relay upgrade harness, BUT the only thing I can offer is to research headlight relay wiring or get one of my Hard-wire upgrade harnesses, or buy the one from Black Dragon. Dave

Taken care of Arne, I mentioned it to him when I PM'd him. Thus his Edit. and on the Update status. I have a few Completed kits that are ready to go out the door as we speak.

That's the idea, so I hope to be able to say YES. The DZ-Start order of 20 is the first of it's kind for the Datsun (specifically) and so this is more of a Tester run. To see how it goes, the interest it draws, difficulty in building, assembly and shipping, etc, etc. If the battery, starter and ignition switch have all been replaced, then the only other option is weak wiring or connections. I would follow the Black/yellow wire from the ignition switch to the starter. removing connections, squeezing them a little for a stronger bite when you reconnect them couldn't hurt. You might want to think about a Starter Assist Relay for your 260Z. It's a basic relay that mounts near the starter, below the battery and uses the starter wire as a signal to transfew a full battery current to the starter solenoid. You can find them on eBay or I can make you one. I found one on eBay from a Bad reputation seller, but I can make one for you for the same price and it'll be WAY BETTER and actually Designed for your 260Z. LEt me know if you're interested. Dave

Welcome to the site. Where abouts in Washington are ya located? Lotsa stuff in the area when it comes to Z cars. We got Z yards, Z events and plenty of Z folk to help you along the line. Dave

PM sent, Thanks in advance Chris. Dave

Great question. But I gotta finish the car and get it on the road before I can tell you the answer. Been a cold winter and now money to work on the car. So nothing has been done since last November. But as soon as I get a chance, I'll finish up the body work so I can get it to paint and get to finishing this damn car. Dave

The Orange Z in picture #3 above Now has an RB25DET (single turbo DOHC IL6) and is also the same car that the motor came out of that went into the Green 72' 240Z that I sold last year. Very little rust and great car. HaulZ some serious AZZ too. Was great seeing you guys and meeting your wife, Thank her again for the fries, for me. Dave

They should be red/black or red wires with black tubing over them that feed from the engine harness where the frame and firewall meet, behind the starter, and go back toward the tranny, on the passenger side of the tunnel. They should have Bullet connectors if I recall correctly. I've rebuilt 3) 71' engine harnesses and that's what I remember, cause I had to replace the tubing and connectors. Dave

Earlier the better, cops on site, find a "Real" parking spot or the cops will tell you you'll get a ticket, blah blah blah. Gonna try and be there around 7:30 to 8am. It gets crazy so find a spot and stay there or you WILL lose it. Hope to see a lot of you there, feel free to stop by and say hi. Dave

I guess I've been lucky so far. I've made about 20+ purchases on eBay and all have been good. Though I just heard from a DZ-Start customer that he had already purchased a Nissan Maxima Switch button and paid $90 for this "Next to IMPOSSIBLE to find item!!" as listed, when in fact, they are around $30 and less, depending on where you look. Do your research people, it'll pay off in the end. And like 5thhorseman said, only use 100% feedback sellers. Or close to 100%.Dave

Can do Greg. As for everyone else, These are moving faster than I thought. I'm thinking this order of 20 units will be gone by Mid April. So if you're waiting, I wouldn't wait too long. By the way guys and gals, A portion of your purchase of a DZ-Start system will be donated to the site you found the DZ-Start on. This site, among others, is the reason you're able to find and buy one. And because of that, I am telling everyone to let me know where you saw the Kit Info, so I can Pay them. I'd love to put "Site Supporter" in my title. We're about Less than 10 days from a final, shippable product. And that'll include relay harness, Nissan switch button and cable, DZ-Start Module, hole template and Hopefully (if my metal guy hurries up) the Aluminum alloy Bracket for those who don't want to remove their ignition assembly. Dave moving right along........