speedyblue

Does anyone out there know the spring rates for Tokico Springs and Suspension Techniques Springs. I figure since I'm getting shocks from OS, I may as well look into springs as well. I read last night that the ST springs are around the 200lb/in mark, but I want to confirm this. No idea about the Tokico springs though. I have decided on Tokico HP shocks, so they should suit either of these quite well yes. If I keep pestering everyone with suspension questions long enough, I might get what I am after. Thanks Scott

That was the option I was stuck with. Pull out friday night/saturday morn, then head to a shop to get them pressed, then home and refitted. Just sussing if this way will work. If Jon races Z's he may be able to help me with my suspension ideas as well

I made a shifter boot but carefully cutting up the old one and using it as a template, so I was going to suggest that, but since you don't have one :stupid: I was thinking of making a matching handbrake boot, but never got around to it. The clips that hold it in place threw me off a bit. If I ever do make one, I'll let you know, but first I have to fit a G-nose, wire up electric mirrors, install new springs and shocks, try and make new guage faces etc etc.... It never ends.

Yeah not really enthused about it, but I have to do it. Just I have a 280zx sitting here and I can steal the part from it easily if it will bolt in. Takes the car off the road for a shorter time, which is handy since it is my daily driver. Don't know of too many 240z at the wreckers around here, so it may be hard to find a complete strut to swap.

I need to replace one of my rear wheel bearings due to a bad noise. This involves taking out the stub axle and going to a shop to press off the old one and press on the new one. This takes the car off the road, which I don't want too much of. Now here's the hard part. The 280zx seems to be fairly similar around this area, with rear brakes interchanging and half shafts bolting on and stuff. So is the stub axle the same for both cars, the 1983 280zx and the 1973 240z. This would be much easier if I had a new bearing ready on the stub axle to install once i got the old one out. I know it is a bit left field, but anyone tried it? Thanks Scott

Cool. Make sure you take some piccies once the springs settle in too.

Have you got around to fitting the shocks yet? And if you have, what do you think of them? One more question, what springs are you running with it all? I'm still gathering info on all the options before I go out and start spending the dosh, so I'm interested in what you think of your new setup. Scott

We don't get Suspension Tech springs over here. Only the local made stuff, and the big name stuff like Eibach. And even the local companies are starting to drop the 240Z off their list due to not enough interest.

Someone got a set of ZG flares and was going to sell copies. Can't remember who. Anyone know who, and if he started making copies?

I just replaced my handbrake cable. Got one through All Z spares. Cost $165 i think, new. 260z ones will fit. 280zx ones will not. Nissan quoted me well over $200 for a new cable. It is a real PITA to replace. Mainly getting the clips out that hold it in. The ones over the diff. From what I read in another thread, the drums are quite adequate for all but the hardest use, but people replace them for looks and serviceability. Which ZX disks are you intending to use? 280zx ones are smaller in diameter and may not work. I have a set of these sitting doing nothing because I don't want to upgrade to smaller disks on the front :stupid: Good luck with it.

Was there any extra import duty on the shocks once they arrived? I don't know how all that works, but I would assume there would be some cost once they arrive in the country, unless they send the invoice separately or no one checks it. Just got an email from Lovells Springs. The CALCULATED spring rate for them is: Front: 150lb/in Rear: 160lb/in So that may vary by about 5% in reality. What do you guys think about that spring rate as far as handling/street driving? Also just for info, my quote for the Gabriel shocks was $89 each, plus a $15 order in fee, because the suppliers don't keep them in stock.

Found another company yesterday, and had a chat to them at the fast Fours Jamboree. Fulcrum also make a set of lowered springs that will lower the car 30-35mm below stock. Cost of $147 a pair. Asked him the spring rate but he didn't know, which is fair enough, but normally they are 50% heavier than stock. Gabrial shock were the ones I was leaning towards at the moment, due to them having the only reasonable price so far. The pedders price seemed a bit far out there for shocks. Luckily, I'm not up for racing the car as such, just something a bit stiffer for the road, and perhaps a bit of drifting. Alan, would you have any pictures of a car set up with Lovells springs? Thanks Scott

After a bit of a web search and ring around it appears these are the few that still make them for the old Z. So I am asking for opinions from those of you that have used these springs. I know a few of you have King Springs, and the cost is about $165 per pair, but have no info on the Lovells, ride wise or price wise, or the Eibach's. Pictures would help also, so I know how much lower the car would sit. Also info on what shocks you used as well. From what I cangather, the local options for them are Gabriel, Munroe and Pedders, without going into the extreme price range of Koni's Oh yeah, and I'm talking about a 73 240Z. Thanks Scott

I'm on the right track!! Two of the cars I own made the list, although, not the exact year Driving a car that has the aerodynamic modellings of a common house brick is coming into style. Go the Scout.

It took me about a year, but I'm just glad it's back on the road. Hopefully those that are still working hard on their cars will soon see the light at the end of the tunnel and experience it first hand. Keep going fellas, cause all the hard work will pay off, sooner or later. Scott

After driving around my freshly registered 240 for a week, then putting it off the road for a few days to replace the uni's in the half shafts, then hitting the road again for a few days, I finally got around to tuning the carbs tonight. It was running a bit rich, and you could feel the push, but it wouldn't want to rev past 6000rpm. It was missing the scream from the exhaust that I remember from a few years back. I hit up the tech article section to refresh my memory on the way it is done, then set out to make her really run well. After a few solid minutes tinkering, I shut the bonnet and hit the street. I did a nice slow crise around the block, just to get everything flowing good after sitting idling for a while, then on the last straight, slowed down, almost to a stop. Smoothly but firmly, I planted my foot to the floor. Pushed back into my seat, the tacho needle swung around and was still moving rapidly when I changes at 6500rpm. Nothing too harsh, just a nice easy shift into second and back on the power. The big 235's on the rear let out a little cry as I took off again, and then flew through a nice easy bend, then it was all over. Back into the garage for the night until tomorrow, when I go to work.

I have a tru-fit set in my Z. It was a 7 piece set or something, but it fits badly behind the seats because it isn't moulded to the shape of the floor. It just kind of bunches up and looks messy. In front of the seats fits good though, and the side bits under the sill plates are average. I made my own covering for the rear out of a really thick bit of material that matched the carpet. Just carefully cut it to shape. The piece supplied in the kit wouldn't fit due to a sub box in the back glued in, so it is still rolled up in the cupboard.

Everyone's a comedian I didn't think Japan had enough room for people, let alone dumping cars. Guess that's what I get for believing what I see on TV.

Cool. Thanks for that. Hopefully I can explain to the guy behind the parts counter exactly what I am after. Would have been too easy if they were all the same. Scott

You haven't developed some sort of vacuum leak or something of the like have you? Something that is messing up the mixture enough to ruin your plugs fast? Check the vacuum hose and the fume one that goes from the block very closely. Something llike that can come on suddenly.

I have worked out that the horrible noise coming from the rear of my car is one of the uni joints in the half shaft, so I will be replacing them. Just so I know before I start ringing around some shops, are the tail shaft one's the same as the half shaft ones, or different. Thanks Scott

How much fuel have you gone through since it started playing up? Bit of a long shot, but maybe you got a dud batch and it's causing problems. Good luck.