Shawninvancouver

I have not been able to get spark and have now figured out the black white wire that goes to coil + gets .15v yes .15v when key is on start. It’s a points dizzy. New coil. Points set. Green white to ballast 12v on start. Bw to other side of ballast 12v on run. Is the problem coil wire running through the tach and running into a problem there???

The coil + wire that is getting .15volts goes back to tachometer what is the best course of action ??

I tried yet again with still no spark. multimeter tests. with key in run position green white on ballast 12v from other wire across ballast black with on ballast 12v Coil +. 0 v with key on start coil + has .15v yes that’s .15v with key on green white alone has 12v Still no spark

Ok. Will do. Anything to test on start position?

Ohhh and for a wired testing of spark from coil. This other nice drawing is how you suggested it? Correct ??

Ok. Then my nice drawing here should be how you are suggesting i wire it??

Ok. That makes sense. That is what I will do next. I think I tried to do that originally but had smoother wire also on the green wt terminal. That extra wire was the bw with no power. Maybe it was grounding the green out and stopping power? This is how I tried it in photo. oh ONE MAJOR question that may solve my problem. What is supposed to happen power wise at coil positive to get spark and keep car running? Constant power ? Only power on start ? ???????

Ok. Thats what it does. It’s power on run. So that being the case. Should this wire set up work ? It has no green white and no second black white used. Was the car wired this way to run and bypassing the tach ??

Also curious why I have 3 distributors that cane with the car. And all of them go in with huge vacuum advance disc up on the top and the mark on the dizzy cap for #1 is in top right when it is actually bottom left. Here is mine with vaccum advance on top and a photo of how most cars are with it in bottom. Any idea why??

This was how I was told to jump it.

Yo zed. Yes. I did do the hot wire test from battery straight to coil. Nothing happened. When I did that the coil neg went to dizzy but I did it the way suggested. From pos on battery to resistor. Other side of resistor to pos coil. Still no spark.

Ok. So with this way wired what should I get?? It’s a black white to resister then to coil. should it be power on start? Power on run? Or no power??

Ok that will be next test. Do you say remove the pos wire on coil? Leave neg on coil ? Also. Keep in mind one side of the resistor is black white power on run and green white is power on start. So that means the black white runs across the resistor to the green white giving it power when on run. ??? When we got the car the green white was cut off. Could the car ever start without the green white ? Could it go from the hot black white at resistor to the coil ?? Normally no wires go from resister to coil but when we got the car one wire was going from resister to coil.

240dw. Watch this video. It shows power at the resistor but no power to coil +. Is this the problem????? IMG_8788.mov

Ok. Before I rattle off more info I need to say the following again. As per captain and Steve j posted. i have tried the instructions below 20 times and do not get continuity from the green white to either of the black whites I can go on to say the green white is hot in start position and I can confirm that one of the black white gets power in the run position and I assumed that was the bw to resistor But once again no continuity from gw to either bw Is something wrong there or is that ok?? I also think I know what might be going on here when we originally got the car, the green and black white were snipped there’s a wire going directly from the ballast resistor to the coil that may have been the only hot wire and way to start the car can someone please tell me what the power should be at the coil positive when the car is in the start position? Here is a photo of the way it was wired when we got the car. ohhhh power at coil + if power at resistor ?? I can check posted a picture in another thread recently, but here's the text version of how to do it. Black/white to the coil positive Green/white to one side of the ballast resistor Black/white to the other side of the ballast resistor Black wire from distributor to coil negative Now you saw that I mentioned black/white twice! How do you tell them apart? Make sure the car is off. Make sure the green/white wire and bothblack/white wires are disconnected in the engine bay. Using a multimeter, measure continuity from the green/white wire to each black/white wire. The black/white wire with continuity to thegreen/white wire goes to coil positive. The other black/white wire goes to the ballastresistor.

Ohhh. And here is what wires to coil and resister do. Green white hot on start. Black wt yo resister not on run. Black white to coil pos no power. I went over that 10 times and that’s how it should be. Am I missing something. ??

With those videos the test light is hook to battery pos. So frame has a good ground. We added a good one. No sure why coil had no ground with points open or closed. ??

Ok. I will try to explain this again it’s always confusing. In my photo. Top of points where I says yes. My test light when hooked to pos battery lit up when touching top part of points. But fit not light up when touching the other side of the points. When either opened or closed. So what I’m saying is one side was. Grounded and one side was not. When either opened or closed. And as for the testing I was under the impression if I just took the lead wire out of the coil. The word that goes from coil to dizzy and unplugged it from dizzy and held the metal tip. The part that would plug into dizzy. And held it again engine i would see a spark from that. I was never using a spark plug with wire from dizzy. Only way I was looking for spark from dizzy was with a spark plug tester pluged into a plug in engine. IMG_8788.mov IMG_8787.mov IMG_8786.mov

Any thoughts ??

I think I should also report the tests. 1. neg battery to engine shows continuity 2. Distributor body to engine shows continuity 3. Neg side of point to engine shows continuity. 4. While my test light was attached to pos battery. I got light when connected to neg side of points. Points would open and close and got no power on other side of points - is that correct? 5. tried jumping power straight from battery pos to coil pos and tried to start car still no spark doing that. Checked by holding plug wire from middle of coil to frame.

Yes. I just tested coil with a multi meter and it looks like the coil should be fine. Very possible a bad plug lead. Should this coil be ok to use??

So why do I have a brand new coil that won’t produce a spare ? Bad plug wire?

After 4 more hours of testing all grounds. All live wires. Point. Checking power on start and power on run and that all wires were in the correct location. And still no spark I said F this and checked the brand new flaming hot coil and old coil using the video below. And sure enough there was NO spark from either coil. What’s the consensus ? Bad dead coils or bad plug lead??I assume it’s one or the other or both. Did I fry a brand new coil by hooking it up by passing the resistor ??

Does the battery need to be grounded on the firewall? I have one ground going to engine block. As seen.

thanks trapinn but I’m in Vancouver bc lol not Washington I did just recently watch this video can someone explain how you get spark at the points like in this video??