Shawninvancouver

are these stock door guards riveted on or glued on?? is that a rivet on the rail going right into the door??? any feedback would be great as i want them gone..

one of my favorites.. whats it called and do they make an afert market one? thanks

i think the power part is ok - but the skinniest part of the antenna is bent. it is not cut through the meta.. just bent.. what is the best way to try and straighten it?? any tricks?? heat gun? vice?

what goes on this metal L bracket coming out of fire wall where gas pedals hit it. its like a stopper but does some rubber bumper hook on it or something?? anyone know??

think that tank will hold gas? and get it to the engine?

I have seen mixed reviews of a drain screw on the bottom and there is NOT one shown on tank scematic... is there a drain screw on the 71 240 tank??

I have a 71 240 thats been siting 5 - 7 year. We want to check the tank and fuel lines, what is the best way to do this? 1. is there a drain plug? 2. can we clean out tank? 3. can we blow out or clean out lines? there are no visible holes - any ideas would be great...

Now - next question - Gas tank 1. can it be drained? is there a drain plug on stock 71 ? 2 how to check inside? 3. how to see if we can use it? 4. how to see if clean fuel can hold in there for a bit to drive to shop? 5 can we clean the lines? tank has been empty for 7 years - what is proceedure.. its not rusted through...

how do you drain the gas????

Will it have less fuel flow just coming from onw cup at a time from a funnel? think that is causing the gas to get all chewed up by first carb>?? or second carb blocked? we dont want to run gas through an old tank... but not vaccuum,, if there is one in the fuel system..

then what do you check to get the other 3 running?? and how can you tell by just sound? Key key key wont shut er off.. what to check for that?

OOOHHHH - so one carb might have issues?? no fuel??? check fuel line?? blow em out?? our gas was coming from a raised funnel like an IV tube.. not from fuel tank - so maybe gas was getting used up by first carb?? what about car not shutting off when key is turned off????

another person said this about car not shutting off

YO Zed.. how can you tell its not all 6...??? and why would it be less then 6?? ALSO- the key that turned the ignition was an uncut key ( cylinder obviously dead ).. but when we tried to turn the car off the key would not turn it off WOOPS>>> why would that happen?? bad key ignition unit? a ground? is that a normal problem?? another vid below run2.MOV

OK.. to all - here is what happened = hopefully helps other starting a car after many years. 1. changed ignition coil 2. changed balast resistor 3. new plugs 4. sanded points and cleaned in distributor. put some gas in the spark plug hole and presto.. UP AND RUNNING. check water line for radiator a few mins later and the out put was dry,.. stopped motor - water pump ok/ how do you fill the cooling system? just fill up rad? backfill it? also - dash shows voltage.. does that mean alternator ok?? put new radiator in. water leaking out of arear where water returns to rad so looks like water circulating ok ran for a about 15 mins.. car warmed up a bit.. run1.MOV

Have you put the black cable from the battery negative post back on, attached to a starter bolt or transmission bolt? Not sure what that means.. the negative to the battery was from the wire harness i believe..should we have another wire off the negative battery post to another ground?? the ground off the negative was there.. but possibly when we chopped out the two X out units of junk. we may have chopped that ground,, if we chopped that ground, will it stop the engine from starting????

Yo Zed -- i WAS using the meter but there was so much bloody rust i could barely fine a place to ground it.. the meter starter at like 3V then slowly moved to 10 or 11V.. is that normal??? or should it just jump to 12V ? i think i got more a volt reading when i had the meter stuck in the main coil lead and not when i had it on a positive or neg and to ground.. can you simply just tell me where i put the two ends? does it matter which coil terminal?? and just ground it??? also - does a wire go to where yellow arrows go on distributor????

ROUTE OF WIRE.. attached is the rout of the power wire.. as shown in red it goes from the starter motor red wire.. and goes straight to the ballast. ( the yellow wire on ballast )... is that correct ?? or is it missing something that is causing no spark?? or does it need to go to any igniter or anything before going straight to the ballast?? or is it correct??

Amazing help here. I just want to make sure some wire came loose and is missing. in photo below with white arrow shows a terminal on the side of distributor, and there is no wire there., did something come off or is that normal??

how do you open and close the points " by hand" ?? spin the top plastic T ?

LOL- ok where on coil do i put the multi meter? one prong in middle hole and one to ground?? then turn key to accessory?? i think i did that and got full voltage.. but no spark to spark plug as we pulled a plug and held it to motor when starting.. must be the points??? the coil is so bloody rusty.. we may just by a new onw for 40 bucks.. and new ballast risistor and not worry about them..

cool - what about the terminal on the distributor with no wire.. the one i put a white arrow to??? does anything go to that??

UPDATE - bench tested starter motor and it worked. put it back in and found ignition wires so when key is start position it works... we got starter motor going with key... step 1 done !! but no spark - spark plugs are all new. we tried to test ignition coil.. 1. can you test it with a multi meter? and how? is that the best way? or just buy a new one? 2. distributor looks crusty and points were all crusty.. did not have time to clean distributor... 3. can distributor be tested be seeing a spark if held to frame form main cable to distributor cap? 4. there is a wire missing from distiributor possibly.. i will put arrow to it in photo.. 5. should i sand the points? 6. if engine is trying to start with starter motor is it still possible there is no power going to ssprk/ ignition coil?? photos below.. so close to get it going... white arrow on distributor - does a wire go on that?? how does coil look? how does inside of distributor look?? does the wire run from the positive on the starter motor to the resistor balast below the coil???

Hi siteunseen, Im not a super knowledgable engine guy.. I do know its the stock L24 in there and it matches the frame. - there was no extra engine work done.. only some electrical stuff for some lights i ripped off... what is the zx short shifter?? - all i know is the tranny seems ok as it stiff shifts fine... is it rare to have an L24 left in these things?? lol... especially matching,,,,, these are the crazy electronics in this./// how did they get that cable through the firewall????

OK. I will keep you all posted on progress as i am sure this will be able to help other. I have someone with experience ( with cars ) helping me, but no computer forum experience, so i will post and report as best i can. when it comes to points and carbs i have worked on honda bikes with points so i understand then a bit. cars are a step up though. one more question on the road to starting.. 1. Is it ok to fill the radiator with just water? - how do you fill the whole system? I dont think anyone said anything about taking the starter motor out to test it... ? another photo of inside