Shawninvancouver

ok.. i got ya.. can anyone tell me where the float bowl drain screw is on the su flat top?? i want to drain the bowl... i am assuming there is a screw somewhere....

Yes guys. Budget is limited and I just want to get it running. I’m no mechanic. Just a wanna be. But do you suggest swapping carbs or just cleaning up the flat tops to get it going? I noticed the float bowls for the flat tops are on the bottom therefore very hard to access. Do I need to take the carburetters right off the manifold to clean these float bowls out on the flat tops or do you suggest taking the flat tops right off the manifold and putting on some round tops what’s the easiest way to get this thing going?

I am now going to attempt to take off the old non working flat top SU carbs and put in the round top SU carbs can someone please tell me which lines must stay and which lines can go and/or is there a step-by-step instruction on how to do this I have not seen any any videos on the swap or any step-by-step instructions on the swap. I need to buy any extra parts or can this be done with what is there between the two sets of carbs? I have another manifold that goes with a round top carbs. Do I just takeoff the manifold that’s on there now and put on the round top carbs on the manifold that I have with them or do I just take the carburetters off and put them on the existing manifold. ??

Hey guys I’m just glad I got spark. FYI the 3 distributors were all old crappy things. All the wires in those were frayed dead things. The one with the red wire a guy just grabbed an old piece of wire and tried to use that. If did not even have the metal slotted ends on it. All the points on all the dizzys were white and corroded. The car sat outside for 10-15 years. All the condensers were rusted to $^!#. If I would have just checked for continuity from the prong the neg wire goes to on outside of dizzy to the points and seen I was even getting a connection that far I would have solved this way faster. Trust me. I told my pal if we got a new electronic dizzy it would work right away. And probably would have. My advice to anyone with points dizzy. Get rid of it and throw in an electronic one and all will be fine.

Wouldn’t some gas in the spark plug hole get a bit of run time ? I couldn’t even get the spark to ignite the gas in the spark plug hole. What does that mean ???

Yes

Is it easier to do this by taking the valve cover off?

Ok. So it’s a combination of the piston being up. Screwdriver in spark plug hole. And also looking in oil cap to see if two lobes are up??with my distributor orientation should the rotor still point at like 8:30 looking at it from the side of the car?

After long battle, I finally found spark but now I need to figure out how to organize plug order on top of the distributor. I tried to find dead centre by putting a screwdriver inside Spark click hole number one to piston comes to top, but all that does is end up having the rotor point to a funny direction around around 3 o’clock looking from the driver seat. I know it should be pointing around 830 but when the rotor is at 8:30 the piston is not at TDc. The distributors on the only way I can go on. It is lined up and seated properly the distributor rotates properly, but I cannot figure out where sparkling number one is any help this would be great. I do see the mark on the distributor cap or number one is supposed to go but once again that Mark is at about 3 o’clock while looking at it from the driver seat, is it supposed to be there or not?

I do get a spark. I have a spark plug tester hooked up and it lites up. Also had a few backfires. So it’s definitely getting spark. Now it’s just figuring out firing order on dizzy. Or the carbs could be so glued you will need to take them out and fully clean them.

Ok. The problem has finally been solved. For all of you who guessed at what the problem might be here is the answer. a - I bought new points. And put them in. I finally took a multimeter and checked for continuity across the connection to the distributor and to the points and there is no continuity. I then figured out the wire was dead between the connecter on the distributor to the points. It’s a little old wire. It’s tiny. I put a new wire in and checked for continuity and had continuity from the tiny little plug where they wire coming from the coil goes to the distributor. I checked from the distributor connection to the points and finally had continuity. Then with the points closed had continuity on the other side of the points, and that finally solved the problem, spark now happens. Now the next thing will be to figure out how to get this to run. We got spark, but could not get it to ignite anything. My next thread will be how to get it to run with these stupid flat carbs. thank you to all the guys that gave me ideas on what to do and bring out the multimeter and check for continuity and really keep focussing on the stupid distributor. It was old. I did get new points but even had to pull out another wire from an old distributor and make sure that that wire had continuity finally solved the problem. I now have spark and now I gotta get this baby to run. another sidenote, I did this by bypassing the tack and not using the green and white and one of the black whites. I only used the one black white that was hot on run and put that to the resistor then from the resistor to the positive on the coil and that’s why I finally got the spark. hopefully this thread will help some other guy out one day. !!

I just got some new points. The points are actually like silver and metal. All my other ones were white and corroded. But still tried sanding old ones. Maybe this will do it. 🙏🙏🙏🙏

OK guys I hate to bother you again, but I’m going back to the car later today. Please let it be known that for sure there is power on the coil when the car is in the run position I’m getting power to the coil from the resistor. I have the black white with power when the car is in the run position going to the resistor and I’m going to jump it to the coil. The coil will have power on the positive and the negative and then you’re saying that positive power should run through the wire down to the distributor And that power should show up at the connection where the wire connects to the distributor and at the points on the distributor when the points are open, and the power should not go across the points is that correct? if that happens then I’m assuming the only thing I can be looking at would be the lead wire coming out of the coil or some sort of ground short at the distributor is that correct?

Only reason I asked why it should have power as it is a negative terminal coming from coil negative. I’m obviously no electrician. I just want to solve this so I can leave all you great helpers alone. Oh and maybe I don’t know how to read a wiring diagram of when the wire should have power running through it. I can follow the wires. That’s about it🥺

You say I should have power on this wire on side of dizzy were coil neg connects ? Power on start or run? Also power on points with red wire when ? Start or run?

As per this post 240 keep in mind it’s a brand new 1.5ohm coil. Brand new condenser on dizzy. I may even put brand new points in. When you say I should also have power on the terminal of the dizzy what do you mean? The screw that tightens it to mount ? And which is positive side of points ?

Just need to know as many possibilities as my car is not at my house. It’s at my pals garage. I only get there a few times a week. If I wanted to jump over and skip the tach would this work ? From ballast to coil. ?

Ok. Measurements will come. But assume with points open there is only power on one side?? Is that correct ? ohh and if plugs are in wrong order it’s just going to misfire??

Another question I have that has been bothering me is that I’m not sure if the spark plug wires are on proper order when we found top dead centre by putting a screwdriver in the spark plug hole and number one on the piston is at the top is the distributor rotor points to a random spot maybe like 3 o’clock while looking at it from the driver seat we assumed that would be number one, which is where the rotor points when the engine is the top dead centre is that correct? Is it always a random spot? It is not anywhere near where it should be on the distributor cap mark. What will happen if we have our spark plugs out of order will it start and just misfire or no spark at all?

Hey yarn. I red circled wires that work fine and gave 12v on start/run. The yellow circle gets no power. Not sure what it supposed to do power wise. It goes in tach and comes out. Does it get power at any point?

So hook multi meter to ground and have key on then measure on both sides of points ?

Ok. So I should measure voltage on dizzy at both sides of the points with points open or closed and car in run power. Not while trying to start ??what should it measure ??

Ok 240. Can I ask you this. Is there a way to measure if there is voltage coming out of the coil lead when I try start position on key? Can I put multi meter probe inside middle of coil and measure that ? To see if power is coming out of middle. ?? So power is supposed to be on pos and neg of coil ? I have always had that. Now what makes the coil shoot power out of the middle? Is that the points or something on the distributor?

I think when the jumper is on and the car in run position there is 12v all over both sides of ballast and with jumper to coil both + and ~ on coil have power 12v when power goes to the pos side of the coil it also goes to neg side Is that right?

Yes I did do the jumper as you can sorta see in photo below Of course with jumper if gets 12v as green wt is 12v still no spark No sure how this works the black white on ballast has power all the time it sends it through the ballast do now the green wt has power all the time and with a jumper the coil has power all the time ??!