Shawninvancouver

i can not locate any mark to indicate no.1 spot on distributor... just going by the clamp on the top of distributor as 1. and its marked 1 on cable and goes to the plug closest to fire wall... is there any other mark on distribtor i may be misssing to indicate 1?

so mine is wired all backwards??? could the order ever have been changed??? what happened here???

Is hooked up with plugs being wired to distributor as follows.. 1 near firewall and 6 near fan... is this totally backwards???? all the wires are numbered with little number tags and go in that order?? what is going on here?? can it be reversed somehow? or do i have to fix all wires to have 6 by firewall and 1 by fan???

Hi steve - im hoping i can get through this. - it is a brand new coil -- I was doing what you said in your last paragraph.. taking the coil wire off from the distributor cap. but instead of holding in near a ground area on the car looking for spark - - i was using my screwdriver with a light bulb in it ( electrical tester ) hooking to end of wire from coil and poking to a ground - assuming i would see the bulb light up if i was getting a spark.. would that work? or would it not show the screw driver light up?? does it need a gap? is that why i as not seeing screw driver light up? and to recap - two simple questions? 1. so there should be constant power to both pos and neg of coil? 2. does the black/white go to pos or neg? ( i looked and fsm but does not show on coil diagram ) 3. is there any module under the dash? or only for electronic ignition and not points? thanks a million

I have a brand new msd coil. when car key is turned on i have power to a black/white and blue wire / are they both supposed to have power?? I need to know which goes to the negative and which goes to the positive on the coil - the wire diagram says black/white to pos and other to neg. i tried that and when i turn key to ignition nothing happens.. tried wires other way and nothing happened. i am very close as i have power going right to the coil but not coming OUT of coil.. i checked fusable links.. all look good.. what is wrong here?? the way the wires are hooked up? or is there something else im missing?? does my car have a electronic ignition module under dash?? if this is bad what will happen>>?? wiill i still get power on both wires up to coil??? please help thanks.. photos below..

stick with this one i guess... i assume the return line is there and all lines are there... just a matter of figuring which ones are blocked... also need to make sure pump works and check relays... but i guess its best to make sure car runs off jerry can beside mechanical pump.. but about rerays::: are there other relays under passenger foot area? or will i find these easily? can they be replaced>? are there after market ones? will the ac dekco after market fuel pump work? can car run ok with bypassing pump??

Thanks Steve. I will eventually get to all that. I think the first thing we will do is make sure car runs from fuel right by the mechanical pump. Last owner had a Jerry can right by mechanical pump abd that’s how they were testing car. If car runs ok off Jerry can they I can tackle fuel flow from tank to machanical pump. Can the 260 run like the 240 with just a mechanical pump? is there a way to clean the metal fuel line?

Man. I’m no electrician. Are they the standard square boxes ? It looked like they have wire harness plugs. Are there others under there or just the fuel pump ones??

cool thanks... i have the FSM - i still cant find the relays though.. have looked at fuel system and electrical.. can you find the relays in there???

ok.. will do - only thing is alot of stuff is not stock and not in manuals. asbestos on covers? what do i do???? so there is a filter by the pump?? one last little thing.. where are the relays?? how do i check them?

what 73 did you have with an electric pump?? i thought they only started on the 74 260s? engine issue was sputtering... we assumed bad fuel flow..

will car run without this electric pump working? what are effects without it? how hard to change??? can someone show me one? do they just start working when power is on car?? will the ac delco gm / or nappa one work fine???

Not sure where the problem is here. I will have to check the electric fuel pump by the engine. Also. This car had triple carbs at one point in time. Not sure what they did with the fuel return and vent after they were taken out and original su put back in. See if you can tell in the attached photo.thanks.

Apparently it’s the vent that is capped off with red cap. Fuel return is there in white heat cover. I know the mechanical fuel pump. Where is the electric fuel pump. Can someone show me this??

Ya. Don’t they just have a stock mechanical fuel pump ??

How does it have both mechanical and electric fuel pump ??

people who took car off the road said it was sputtering.. all assumed it was fuel flow issue and ran ok off a jerry can at engine. can car run ok with no return? does a 260 have electric fuel pump or manual like a 240?

Ok. That’s what I thought. Where should it go to? A fuel line? what are the effects of no fuel return? Could it lead to sputtering and no fuel flow ??

1974 260z - can you see a return fuel line here? car originally had issues sputtering and no fuel flow.. is there something missing here??

Are there special angled ends?

cool how hard is it to drill the hole and how close to car body do you need to drill the hole? Does it explode when you get through???

I am trying to find a way to get bumper closer to car without fully removing shocks. That’s why I’m thinking drill and compress them.

Want to de pressurize to push them in a bit to get bumper closer to car. Will that work? I don’t want to drop tank unless I have to to get right shock out.

where is the screw i undo to let the gas out? is it the bolt on the end? or somewhere else?? or should i just drill it??

shoot that sucks... can i find new rubber for them?? better to do that then have to patch holes. ???