Shawninvancouver

I noticed last owner bypassed it. Car starts ok and runs ok. If it dies i will get pump

arm rest console area - only happens when car is driving/ sometimes ok - sometimes banging/knocking right behind/seat or under armrest,.. how in the world do i get a new strap in there?? i guess i need to crawl under and see what it is.. oh.. maybe thats why the car was in gear and would not go anywhere ...?:*^%#$% until i reved it a bit in neutral... hmmm

when i start in low gear i get a bang bang band noise banging me from under the armrest.. what would be causing that??

Can anyone recommend a good cheap after market pump? can this can run on just the mechanical pump? if so do i need to eliminate the electric pump and fuel filter from the area near the tank? or can the mechanical pump pull gas through a non working electric pump? i will take it out and test it - just by hooking up to 12v battery.. if it works, are there relays in the passenger foot area and if so how many and what panel are they behind/ color. does anyone have photos of the stock pump and filter they stuck back there, and relays/fuses??? how can you tell this pump is running as i think it only goes when car is running.. thanks

Thanks so much guys for all your help. For anyone with the same 260z problem of no spark after getting power to the coil. Get a 280zx matchbox dizzy. So simple to hook up. Here are the results. Yahoool IMG_2911.MOV IMG_2912.MOV IMG_2911.MOV IMG_2912.MOV

CASE CLOSED - car RUNS!!!! new 280zx dizzy fixes the problem... took out electronic ignition unit and ballast... thanks for the help.. can i now start a new thread on how to tune it up and get it to run normal???

Ok just need to know what’s gauge wire to use for wires from coil to new dizzy. and will this coil be ok.. Thanks.

ok - i am just going to hook up the 280zx dizzy.. is it that easy - 2 wires ? 2 from coil to new dizzy? which wire is tach and where does it go? is that light blue on my coil - the tach? thanks

Hi zed. I tested it by trying to start the car. I also put my screwdriver with bulb in end of coil to see if it would light up. Nothing. Should there be power coming out end of coil or only when try to start car? I was going to hold end of coil wire to ground on car to look for spark but I tried that on another car a while ago and got one hell of a zap. So I didn’t wanna do that. I’m sure if a plug got spark I would hear the car start. Put gas in plug hole. Etc. No luck. Whatever triggers the coil is no triggering it to send a spark out. Either electronic unit or maybe dizzy pickup??? But power to coil. And no spark.

Here is ballast and coil. IMG_2859.MOV IMG_2859.MOV IMG_2859.MOV

zed - i did that. i once again had the dizzy out.. made sure the car was at tdc - compression stroke.. had the plug wires all new and in correct.. and no spark..... F@@@ - this is insane.. battery was working when i started this now its like dead.. wont even turn over.... need to charge battery - and just put in the 280zx matchbox dizzy and get rid rid of all that junk.. no more headaches.....

i think the problem is from this.....

Ya battery was super weak. Only 10v on the battery. So should all 5 spots show voltage or not?

Wired this way.

With power on I had 10v to all 3 posts on ballast and 10v on both coil posts. No spark. Engine was tdc compression stroke. cam lobes point up as seen through oil cap. Rotor points to 1 spot. Must narrow it to transistor unit or dizzy.

yes i have seen that but its a 4 post and mine is a 3 post... not sure whats on the extra post. all i really want to know is - should i see some sort of power on all 3 posts when i turn the key to the power position - or only power to 3 on start car ignite position???

i just watched this video about ballast and coil and he says i should only see power on the last terminal when the engine is cranking.. 2:55 of video.. not when the key is in on position.. so was my ballast acting correct when i was testing for electricity with my test light???

ok to test by putting white/black (to coil) on middle post with black/blue - wont be to much voltage?

ok -so for testing purposes i would put the white black form the right post to the middle post? will this not get overly hot? will it reduce voltage enough to not fry anything?? will it be ok for white / black and black/blue to be on same post? coil.MOV

How original owner had this wired up. Maybe to bypass ballast ?? Before I put in new coil and wired properly.

Ohhh. Just to make sure my coil will work ok and not fry things. Are these specs ok? We had used this in another 240 and all was ok.

Oh. Ya. And if it was the ballast then I would never get a spark. That’s possibly why last owner was messing with dizzy.

No new threads. Today’s job get tdc. Hook up plugs right. Put in dizzy correct Check ballast resistor. Follow wire diagram in fsm. See if I get spark.

Yes racer. Look at video on post 65. Coil is hooked up by fsm but power does not travel across ballast. I was looking at tdc and dizzy as I was not getting spark. I didn’t think of the ballast being bad. I thought the problem was with the dizzy not sending power / signal back to ballast / coil. Maybe the whole issue is bad ballast.

what brand makes a 4 terminal with screws?? i will try to find it - if you tell me what brand you saw...