Usain_Boat

Ok so the 21 Ohms resistance to ground comes from the Yellow/Red stripe wire that goes to the seatbelt warning timer. Is this correct functionality? Nevermind, timer has 2.1 kOhms resistance to ground the 21 Ohms I was seeing is through the fuel gauge fuse as they share the same positive bus to the fuses.

@SteveJ Starting to test the reverse circuit for shorts and the hot side from the fuse box is now continuous to ground with a 21 Ohm resistance. The side to the reverse bulbs is continuous with about 1.3 Ohms resistance with the bulbs in and no continuity with them unplugged.

I have the FSM and the color wiring diagram that I'm using currently. Just to get on the same page, as far as I know the wire that goes from the reverse switch to the reverse lights should be grounded since it just powers one of the bulbs leads and the other is grounded to the chassis. If not, what should it be/not be continuous to?

So I cleaned them again with Deoxit and got some more connectors while I was at it too. The oil pressure connector hadn't been cleaned before and I know that is part of the fuel cutoff so maybe that will help.

Here are more pictures of the wiring harness undressed from where the reverse switch wires leave to the fuse box. Nothing looks "fixed" to me.

I got the front end on ramps and took a look at the reverse switch leads. The two female bullet connectors on the harness were very dirty so I cleaned them. One is continuous to ground and the other isn't. On the switch itself both male leads aren't continuous to ground. I'm not sure if it's advisable but I have continued removing the outer insulation on the harness to follow the reverse wires.

@SteveJ the insulation being taken off is me looking for the short and the wire in #3 is not broken here is a close up

Sorry if I'm posting too much tonight but I just want to give as much information from my side as possible. After the car decided to turn back on It was back to the title of the thread, turning off when shifting into reverse. I stuck my probe of the multi meter into the plug at the very beginning of the fuel pump +, stuck the other to ground, turned on the car, took off the e-brake, braked, clutched in, and shifted into reverse. I then watched the voltage to the pump drop to zero and the car turned off. I turned it off and tried to turn it back on but no dice. I then clutched in with the key in on, heard a click, dash lights and gauges came back on and then it would run again. I tried to replicate the turning off in reverse probing other wires but I wouldn't shut off again.

It runs again... I cleaned all the contacts again for peace of mind before dinner, plugged it all back in and nothing. Then after dinner I started tracing power through the relays that turn on the fuel pump since i didn't have power there and I had power through the fuel pump control relay to the fuel pump relay and too the pump. I am very confused as I did nothing in between the two times and tested no voltage to the fuel pump before dinner and I have power after dinner. A possible clue is as I said I had no dash lights or gauges earlier, when I went to try and start it after testing I had dash lights and gauges again. After all I've been through with this car I highly doubt anything is actually fixed but I am confused as to what the problem could be.

@SteveJ here are some pictures if you want more specific ones I can take more. Also the battery is at 12.97V

Just tested the ignition switch as the FSM details and it has continuity across the correct pins at the correct positions.

Is it fine to just check with a multimeter? Or should I buy a back up.

The starter spins but the engine doesn't fire at all when it is turning over. I haven't checked with starter fluid but with the wire pulled off the starter solenoid I do not hear the fuel pump so I will check for spark and starter fluid this evening.

Sorry for not providing info but the splice was on the black with white stripe (the ignition wire). The splice was my fault from installing a relay for a light I only wanted on with ignition so it went to a switch that currently does nothing. I spliced it with a waterproof heat shrink crimp but it was loose and I was able to pull one of the wire off. Again my fault. I then soldered the wires back together and covered them with heatshrink this morning. The issue of the dash lights and fuel pump not work has been with the car ever since I put it back together after rust and paint work. This is my first run with redoing a car so I didn't pull the wiring harness before it went to the shop that did the aforementioned rust and paint work which I regret. I will post pictures when I get home. If there is anything else I should/can provide just let me know.

I fixed a splice I didn't like on the ignition wire and I checked and have power to the coil (last thing on the ignition wire I think?). The car still won't start though. I have no dash lights like the parking brake light and my fuel pump won't turn on.

I'll check there but the turning off when going into reverse has me thinking it would be over where those wires run

So the electrical saga continues with my z... I have a 1978 280z and it recently developed a tendency to turn itself off when I'm driving. It started with it just turning off when shifting into reverse but has evolved into turning off with the right blinker once (I could hear the a relay in the passenger foot well clicking on and off with the blinker) and also just randomly while driving. Today it died in my neighborhood before i could leave and wouldn't turn back on until I jiggled the main wiring harness around. Because of all of this I suspect two wires shorted together since the turn signals and reverse are on the same circuit and removing the fuse for them fixes the problem but if someone could help me track down where in the harness i should be looking and what wire to the main ignition relay or other relay that would kill the car might cause this.

So I got a new reciever drier but now my high pressure switch. What am I looking for when replaced it? Can I use a binary switch that fits or does it have to be a high pressure switch?

What size lines/fittings and where can I get said items to remake the lines?

I have already done the Kia blower swap and I'm ordering a 280z drier but I noticed the screen filter on the high side going into the evaporator is gone. Is there anyway I can replace it? Also, The low-pressure switch seems to be pretty messed up where can I buy a replacement?

I'm In the process of back together my A/C system and have a few questions. First off, I have the drier that the flare fittings are right next to each other and not offset like the 33286 drier. Since I have this type, can I just use a direr from a 280zx? And if I do will it have the pressure switch? Second, I believe it will be easier in the long run just to use R134a so what all needs to be done to prep for this? I have no clue what the state of the system from my car was because the PO took it apart... Also I went ahead and picked up another full system off of another Z to replace some of the mangled and seized copper tubes.

I took a video and everything in the trans seemed to be working so I removed the O-ring that came with the switch and cleaned the bulb connections in the rear and now it works like it is supposed to. I'm honestly not sure why it wouldn't work before.

Ok, that's what I think as well how can I fix it?

Just tested, there is no continuity when the switch is unplugged and the transmission is in reverse.

I just took it out and pressed the switch and it turns on the reverse lights. What is the next step?