Usain_Boat

Ok, its been a while but I now have turn signals back. One of the wires going to the reverse switch had broken off and was grounding out and blowing the flasher fuse. I replaced the switch since the wires were so stiff but now I don't have reverse lights. Both the old and new switch look the same and thread in but neither will turn the reverse lights on (I resoldered the old switch just to test). I know the circuit works because eliminating the switch by shorting the connector turns on the lights. My concern now is that the transmission is not hitting the switch. I have replaced the original 4 speed with a 280zx 5 speed but as far as I know the reverse switch is the same.

Thanks for the vinegar tip. Cleaned the contacts in the plugs and now it runs and I even have low beams. I've just lost brake lights, blinkers, and reverse lights now...

Ok, It's fixed! I had a suspicion it was the plugs under the dash in the passenger footwell so I took them apart and reseated them. I also found some corrosion on a plug coolant spilt on while replacing the heater valve so some combination of reseating and cleaning plugs got it running again. While I'm here, what is the best way to clean all the body plugs since you can't really fit sandpaper in the plug?

I have checked a few more things. Unplugging the oil pressure sending unit a cranking as Zed Head suggested does not get power to the fuel pump. Also, I checked while cranking today and neither the fuel pump relay nor the fuel pump control relay has power while cranking and do not "click" as they did when I tested them off of the car. And for the Oil Pressure sending unit's harness the connection marked in red is shorted to ground, is this normal? Also, I have checked my fusible links and they have continuity. That's all that I should be testing for correct?

This afternoon I was trying to drive my car to get alignment, I know so many things to do, and when shifting from reverse to first my car stalled and would not fire up after. I started testing things and found that I have no power to my fuel pump. It definitely works still since it ran when I shorted it on a battery, and I have ground to its plug. The problem is the positive terminal has no voltage. I then tested all the fuel pump relays according to the FSM and all pass along with continuity from the positive terminal at the pump to the fuel pump relay. Also, I have reseated my oil pump plug and Have tested for voltage when the ignition is in "Start" and not just "On". Some troubleshooting tips would be much appreciated since I have already tried to look through the FSM and wiring diagram.

Sorry, I meant that the switch does what is to be expected based on the wiring diagrams. The proper wires have the proper continuity.

So I just traced the low beam ground to both lights and it is conductive all the way. Also, both the dimmer switch and the combo switch have the proper wires switched on when in the position for low beams yet they still don't work. What should I check next? Hazards do work now though but not blinkers. Blinkers work now. I had to take apart the hazard switch and lightly sand the contacts even though it had continuity.

Ok, I will take a look at that. I know of the FSM wiring diagrams but where would I find the one that Zed attached a picture of?

I will get to testing continuity but by my lowbeams not working I mean that it usually doesn't work. I spliced into the harness and forced the lowbeams to ground which made them work. by dirty dimmer switch do you mean the rheostat on the dash that controls the backlights? I'm not sure where the dimmer switch would be. I said that the turn signal stock doesn't have power because when I switched it to where it would turn on the flasher and there is no voltage between the solder point on the + and the ground.

I've been working on getting the electrical side of my '78 280z back to working and have run into a few issues. First off, my low beams do not work and I have confirmed its a grounding issue somewhere between the headlight plug and the switch by grounding it manually which makes them work. This also makes the high and low beams run at the same time which is not good. Second, while I was installing an upgraded wiper motor to replace my broken original one I had the motor working for a few minutes before lengthening the wires for permanent install then it stopped working completely even rewired multiple times. Third, My Blinkers do not work because I don't get power to the turn signal stock. When in the middle position it has 12v but in the two turn positions it has 0v. I have taken apart, cleaned, and made sure my combo switch works so I don't believe that works. I have also looked at the FSM but I am not sure where to go from here.

I got another wiper motor to test today in case that was the problem but it fixed nothing. What should I be looking for/at if no fuses are blown but the wiper still doesn't work.

I'm probably late to the party but that extra piece goes under the center console to hold the two receivers from falling in-between the seats. That's also why it says you have to remove the center console.

Ok, I downloaded the two FSMs, cross-referenced the wires and had it work with and without the parking relay until I went to lengthen the wires to actually install it. I disconnected them one at a time, added more wire and put it back in the same place. Despite this, after reconnecting three times including straight to the female connector on the car the motor will no longer spin. I also tried the original motor which didn't spin but the linkage was stuck when I bought the car so I'm not sure if it ever worked. Overall, had it working and now it doesn't. No fuses are blown that I can see either.

Not exactly sure where the wiper amplifier would be. All I have done is disconnect the wiper motor at the harness.

I know that there is plenty of information on the Honda wiper upgrade for 240s but I am having a difficult time figuring out the wiring on my 78 280. I have tried wiring it with and without the "parking" relay and cannot get it to work either way. If anyone has information on how to wire this in I would greatly appreciate it. Also, I have attached an album of the pictures of the wiring harness and wiper motor. Album.

Well I cranked it today and it ran for 45 minutes including driving it around my neighborhood. I'm really confused now

A few months ago I started this thread on this site but had to leave for school and couldn't work on the car. From this point, I have tested a few things and found at least one problem. Previously it was suggested to check the fuel pressure and after the engine dies it is still at 32 psi. Also in the previous post I mentioned the first time the car died like this was on the road after I clutched in, upon looking around the clutch pedal I found this red wire in the ECU loom that was worn away by the pedal. I haven't traced it yet so this could be part of the problem. Just to save a click here is the original problem post from me : I have a 1978 280z that I've recently put back together after rebuilding the engine, rust work, and paint. I've gotten the car to the point that it has run three times for various lengths of time. The second time running, I timed it and got it as close as possible but ran out of adjustment on the distributor. When it ran this time I had it on for around 25 minutes and with the initial break-in done decided to go for a ride. I made it 1/2 a mile down the road before it died grabbing fourth and wouldn't run afterward. After an emergency tow home, it would briefly fire up for maybe one second and then die. The next afternoon I tested to see if I had fuel flowing to the rail (I haven't tested pressure) and there is definitely fuel flowing while cranking. Knowing this, I tried running it again and it fired right up and idled for about a minute until I pushed the clutch in to back out of the garage where it died and would not restart. At this point, I have done lots of troubleshooting to get it to this point and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks everyone for the help but I will probably have to end this thread at least for now because I had to head back to college and my car is now 3 hours away. Not so easy to troubleshoot anymore.

I'm pretty sure it's just coincidence that the car died as I pressed the clutch now. It ran yesterday and I touched nothing but still died after 10 seconds

the plugs are not carbon fouled, so I assume it died from lack of fuel.

I drove it around for a few months about a year ago until I checked the oil one morning and had a milkshake because of a cracked head. It needed rust work anyway so I pulled the engine to rebuild while the chassis was away.

I cleaned the plugs this morning and after it fired right up and ran for 10 seconds and died, I could still hear the fuel pump running afterward though.

I had them in the wrong place at one point and the distributor off a tooth at on point but both are fixed now. Yes, the Cap and Rotor are new.

Here is a picture of #2 because I don't trust myself to describe it

I have not cleaned the gas tank, how would I test If something is clogging the lines?