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About Ownallday

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  • Map Location
    Canyon Country

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    I own a 1978 Datsun 280z in racing green. Currently running a Stock L28 N42 block, an E88 head recently rebuilt and ported. Triple Weber 40 DCOE, 3-2-1 headers by TopEndPerformance, Rebuilt 5 speed. I'm on tokico lowering springs, technotoytuning front and rear control arms. Hankook RS4 225/45/r15 performance tires, Gold Enkie Wheels. I drive my car pretty often, occasionally autocross and track events, it's an absolute beast!

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  1. I finally went ahead and got a MSD 6AL with a tach adapter. Not sure if I gained anymore power but the car is definitely a lot smoother especially in the higher rpm range and I noticed a lot less fumes.
  2. I am more than positive both have been changed my friend just can't remember to what so I posted whatever my webers came with for now, the car definitely runs a little more on the rich side with how he tuned it
  3. Okay, I can 100% confirm most likely the oil pressure sensor or gauge is bad. Perfect oil pressure readings from the mechanical gauge.at idle sitting right around 10 PSI at 900 rpms idling. Guess I will just live with it for now as I've already thrown too much money into the car over the last two years I've owned it. Sorry for a super late response as I been too busy to work on the car
  4. I can confirm that before upgrading to the MSD, holding the throttle wide open and cranking for about 10 to 15 seconds would get the car to start. However I completely solved the issue by upgrading to an MSD Ignition 6AL. Now the car only takes about 2 to 3 seconds to start when hot which seems pretty normal for me with triple weber. A lot smother acceleration now at top end especially and also noticed less fumes in the car. Definitely a worthy upgrade. I'd appreciate hearing what you jet selection is. Here is my setup, this is what my friend who tuned them remembers off
  5. Next time I get to driving the car I will leave the throttle open for 10 seconds flat and test the results of that again. If anything I think the fuel level is fine because the car starts right back up when cold without me even priming the the fuel pump. I will check however when I get to drive the car again. It's an L28 with a stock E88 head cam. I will do that once I get around to driving the car again. The bogging is no longer and issue, my friend popped in some bigger jets and retuned the webers and now the car runs near perfect in the lower rpms. If he remembers what size j
  6. I haven't noticed any leaks but I would find it hard to believe it would be leaking after a couple of months. I have the two pin connector however one of the wires was for the ecu module which i never had so its only the one wire now going to the gauge. and no red control light or anything. Didn't know if something like this would work but worth a try, just ordered it I will test hopefully sometime this week when it gets delivered. I really don't want to move towards aftermarket because I like the look I currently have. Just ordered a gauge, I will post once I ins
  7. So I've had my 280z for about two years now. I have always had low oil pressure for some odd reason when I idle and the car is warm. This issues continued after changing to a new oil pressure sensor, and continued even after installing a rebuilt e88 head and swapping to triple webers. If I start the car cold, oil pressure gauge usually sits about halfway or a tad above with the car idling about 1000rpms. With the engine hot and driving the oil usually goes up about 5 to 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. The weird thing about my issue is when the engine is warm the gauge drops below 0 psi
  8. I have a custom heatshield in the works as we speak. I figured heat must have some part take with this issue. I have three friends with triples, none of them run a return line but they don't experience the heat soak issue I do. All three of them however have a heat shield and an msd ignition. This week I should be installing the custom heat shield and msd ignition. I have seen people run no heat shield or even wrapped headers and still run their cars fine without issues. I can mount a fuel pressure gauge. I will order one sometime this week. I have not checked the fuel level. I
  9. Hey guys, back with another question. Recently switched over to Triple Webers back in December. Loving the setup so far, still in the process of tuning them as they don't like open throttle in lower rpms. I am currently having an issue with starting the car after driving for a couple minutes. The car starts up pretty good for three carbs when cold, usually starts right up on the second crank. However she will not start after driving for a while and hot. Example, I drove the car recently for about 20 minutes, pulled up to a gas station to fill up the tank which took approx 2 minutes to do,
  10. Thanks for the input! Seems like most people are running F7 Emulsion tube on 40s even my friends so I might have to get that. Are you running 40DCOE?
  11. Wow that changed real quick, and here Top End states their baseline Jetting is about 80-90% there lol. Thanks for the input Thanks for your input. I'll look into both Main Jets as when it comes down to tuning I can have both sizes ready. Ill see if If its worth while to get the idle jet before the tune Yes it is a 40DCOE 151 all 3 of them are the same and brand new My friend helped me with the webers install and after installing I can confirm the first 3 from your list were already done and working perfectly as explained. 4 will come when I get them tuned. I won't be tun
  12. Hello everyone, I just completed building my 1978 Datsun 280z Motor with pretty much all new or rebuilt parts besides the block. I'll run down everything I have and have done. -Stock L28 N42 Block with dished pistons (not rebuilt or anything) -Rebuilt Late E88 Head, Ported, 1.2mm head gasket -Brand new Triple Weber 40 DCOE from TopEndPerformance with the Canon manifold -Brand new 3-2-1 headers from TopEndPerformance which I also wrapped with header wrap -280zx Dizzy "upgrade" with E12-80 box -Carter fuel pump -Also fully rebuilt 5 speed Transmission (Long gea
  13. Haha, not a bad idea. Ill most likely just save for the 6AL, I plan on doing it very soon anyways. I don't like finding posts without a solution so I will always post the solution on my threads. Thanks for the help, now to make a new thread if my jetting is proper for my Engine setup
  14. Well it came down to the coil! Put the stock one back on, fired up the car and what do you know, tach now shows where my car is idling at! So my question is, if I want to stick with the MSD unit, could I just add a potometer or a resister to the blue Tach wire and get it to work like that? To my knowledge I was told to upgrade to MSD or something similar with the ZX dizzy and Triple weber setup. I plan on getting the MSD 6AL in the future so I know once I do that my tach will need to be hooked up completely different.
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