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I would think adjustable valving would get you where you want to go(different damping rates on the track and the street) when a single damping rate would not. I am going with Illuminas for that very reason. What have you uncovered about the GR2's that make you thingk otherwise? Not that I know, only that I want to. WIll

I believe all of the USA and Canada 240Zs had 96301-E4600. I have never seen one that didn't unless the mirrors had been replaced. Will

Looks like you have a replacement from Victoria British (the one with the white plastic end), and an OEM variety-other than the obvious quality differences, it will work. I posted almost the same photo some time last year... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16518&highlight=speedometer+cable Will

I hear imported beer is a contributing factor-any truth to that Victor? Will

Anybody pointed out the problems to the seller? Will

Enrique is once again dead on! I will add what I do to stop a neked steel (bare steel in a garage will rust in South Ga.)project from its rusting ways: 1) Wipe down all bare steel with laquer thinner-start with a clean dry surface. 2)After the thinner has dried, wipe down the bare steel again with Metal Ready(or any other acidic metal prep that flash coats with Zinc). 3) Grind and prep the area to be welded. 4) Weld as needed. 5) Wire brush the accessable welded areas-fortunately most of the weld scale will be on the side that took the heat, flux and wire/rod. 6) Wipedown and flood both sides of the areas that were prepped and welded with Metal ready-keeping them wet for atleast 5 minutes-a spray bottle comes in really handy-but use eye protection and floor protection-even weak acid etch concrete. 7) Before topcoating/seam sealing (inside and out) rinse the areas with laquer thinner. If you notice some rust forming before topcoating, retreat the affected area with Metal Ready. 8) top coat! You can collect the mertal ready that drips from the parts, and let the contaminants settle collect the clean solution it and reuse it. Will

I used the tumbling method with dry walnut shell media-it removed the powdery oxidation, but nothing else. On the NLA original parts(and those that have been superceded with visually different parts) with pitting, I glass beaded the rust at as low a pressure as worked, dipped/soaked in Metal Ready, rinsed, then used the Caswell plug and plate system (http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/plugnplate.htm) to copper plate(fill in the pits), followed sanding and buffing, then by Zinc plating and Yellow chromate (http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm) to get the cadmium look back. You can tell a difference between the oem pieces and the restored pieces when they are side by side, but more than a foot apart, you can't tell. Fortunately, there weren't that many pieces that needed that much work. The plug n plate system has also proved useful in other areas aswell-I bought the workshop kit. Will

Don't cut anything-unless you have a strength issue. The rust treatment will flow just like the water that caused the rust-it will follow it, and kill it all without making more work!. If the clearance between the bottom of the bracket and the floor is too great to have the bracket in the acid, make a cup form around the bracket with wax, and fill it with enough acid to just cover the bottom lip. Just rinse it as instructed, dry it completely, and saturate it with POR15. I can set it up and take pictures if that will help in the visualization. If you are worried about the rust under the bracket, get a small wire brush and use its ends to scour under the bracket while the acid solution is in place-be certian to use safety glasses while you scrub! Will

Check with the Chamber of Commerce, and visitors center local to the venue, both normally have discounts for area attractions and hotels. Will

I would wire brush the area clean, then keep the area wet with Ospho, Metal Ready, or any of the other phosphoric acid based rust eaters for atleast half an hour. As they dry they coat the newly cleaned metal with Zink, sealing the metal from flash rust. After rinsing the residue as per the instructions supplied with the chosen rust treatment, I would use POR 15 and the reinforcement cloth to seal and reinforce the area-assuming you have no major voids after the rust removal. I have just done this to my car-I didn't need any reinforcement(I didn't see any rust either), but I wanted to be 100% certain of clean metal before sealing the floors with acoustic and thermal coatings. Will

I have always used a high torque impact wrench(Harbor Freight Thundersomething), and never had a flywheel get away from me... Will

Try your local Nissan Dealer or Courtesy Nissan, Pinnacle Nissan, MSA, VB... Shop all for the best price-there will be some variation. Will

His price is high. If he wont sell them individually, he wants them both gone. Take $300 cash and a trailer to his house-put $200 in one pocket and $50 two other pockets before you get out of your car. Pull out and wave $200 cash under his nose to take them both right that moment, if you feel like it, work up very slowly to the $300. Remember there are only some parts you are interested in, and remind him...those parts are your value of the cars-the other parts will be gravy-and/or a storage headache. If he really wants the cars gone, he will negotiate-they have been sitting how long with no takers? Use his needs to get yours-if he really cared about Zcars, he would have at least covered the window-the cars are not important to him. If he won't negotiate, leave your number, and get his, let him store the cars until he is really ready for them to go away. Check back every so often, no more than every couple of weeks. When he gets more tired of the yard art, and being reminded that the cars could easily go away, you will have to find a place for them. Will

Get a head unit with an IR remote, mount the radio under the seat, clip the remote to the seatbelt! Poof handy controls that are easily hidden! Mount a piece of clear tubing to the ir sensor on the radio face, and run it inside the rocker and through the dash to the center vent. Position the end of the tubing just behind the vent where adjusting the vent will not move the tubing. The IR signal will follow the tubing to control the head unit. Will

Chris, On Monday I'll see if I cant capture the relevant pages from my pdf verions and send them your way via email. Will

Anybody made any progress on this? Will

That is a good point, that I completely missed! Thanks Mike! Will

Dave, Thanks for the info Say "Hi" to Ken when you see him, and that explains why my receipt was from Sweet Performance whenI was talking to The Fittings Guy! Will

Still no word from Mr. Thacker! Well, the site has been down... If there is inventory on a shelf there are only two reasons not to LOAN a set of the lenses to MIke or another well versed 240Z owner and impartial member the lenses for review. One of the reasons is the cost of shipping-ok, I can offer to take that out of the equation. Assuming TIR believes that they have the highest quality lenses that can be formed from spending up to 90K on the molds, the only other reason for not having an impartial review of the lenses I can see, is the fear of the results of the review-whether through questionable partiality of the reviewer, or the reality of the quality . To address the first possibility, (while I know Mike is fully capable of the impartial evaluation, if MR. Thacker was comfortable with him, Mike would have gotten a set of lenses by now, which means Mr. Thacker must not be comfortable with him) I am suggesting someone else who has demonstrated he could do the job. I know of one member here who I believe has been a customer of TIR, but who has also demonstrated he knows good reproduction Z pieces from bad(not that Mike doesn't), and how to define challenges and triumphs in both words and pictures(again, not that Mike doesn't). I believe he would be completely impartial(once again, not that Mike wouldn't), and identify the quality of the reproduction of the lenses as they sit with no other influences affecting his judgement. The gentleman I am thinking of has also vehemantly defended TIR on at least one occasion. This combination of skills and historical fact and his makes him uniquely qualified to satisfy any question TIR may have on his impartiality. I will ask him privately-and not in this thread is he would be willing to participate in the evaluation. Will

DOOH! I will have to take a look at that! Will

I agree with Enrique. and in light of not being able to deside, I am going the route of Zrush by way of gogriz91, Two cars, one in bone stock form as a fairweather only car(not quite a trailer queen-but not a daily driver), and one modified into quick daily driver. They will look almost exactly the same outside! A Dr. Jekyl and Mr. Hyde sort of thing. The only way for the untrained eye to know which one I will be in is to get in with me, or wait until I punch it! Now I just have to choose a stock color that works for both... I think it is the whole thing, the journey to the destination, and I mean to enjoy the ride! WIll

I haven't found the packing invoice from my pruchase, but when I get home, I will go through my paypal history and try to find where I sent payment. Will

I think th early cars did get the shorter ones, MSA catalog seggests "70-71 owners check before ordering." They don't want a return if you already have them... Will

I used Him (SweetPerformance) when he was "The Fittings Guy", he had the best prices by far. I gave him a wish list, and paid when it was ready to ship. Will

Mike, Thanks for asking for what I am asking for. I have nothing against TIR or any vendor, I just want to be sure when I trade my money for a Z product it is the best value that is present in the market place. As to degrading anyone, as I posted in another thread, the facts of a situation are pertinant, but the emotions of a situation are not. An opinion expressed without facts should be left un posted. Along that line, here are no opinions, but: Here are the facts we have so far. 1) Involvement in this situation shows that Stephen is evidently one of only three members who have seen the lenses. Stepen, Mr. Thacker, and the member my info came from-no one else has posted about Mr. Thackers lenses. 2) Mr. Thacker has not responded to either of my questions or any of my statements-could be he is getting his ducks in a row to do so... 3)The price of TIRs lenses dropped as soon as he found out there might be someone else offering them-he lowered the price instead of defending the quality(his choice not mine)! Getting a break on the materials for casting lenses does not change his fixed costs. At $90K(his number not mine) for the molds he has to sell 339 sets at his current price just to break even on just the mold costs-not counting material, labor, listing, and shipping costs. Once again, I just want to know who will have the the best set of lenses... Will