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Look at the individual points taken line by line, it may be that you have a total score for the area and the judge did the math, subtracting the raw score in the area from 100. In example: a total of a 12 point deduction would give an 88. Will

All of it was still available. When I pick up the parts, I'll post the part numbers right off the invoice so you will have the latest part numbers. Frequently the new version of old parts come in a different finish-"clear" cad plating vs Gold cad-but the hardware in question came clear cad plated. Will.

Tomohawk, What you got was 0 points deducted-a perfect score! Only deductions are tallied on the judging sheets. Will

Last week it was all still available from the dealer... Should be in any day. Will

GOOOOOD MORNING Genove! Welcome to ClassicZCars.com, the home of S30 information-and not necessaarily Dan the man Levitan! Welcome, congratulations, and hope to see pictures! Will

Clipped for addressing. All of the cars are to be judged equally-the scores at one show should be the same for cars in the same condition-regardless of weather/detailing time, that is what makes the judging fair between shows. Otherwise previous entries either got an advantage, or spat on. I got the same conversation, as with my bringing a car to Daytona and to Ohio, some times the best laid plans don't come to fruition through no fault of those planning-my boys were dissapointed, but still had a great time I do believe that trailering a car does grant a serious detailing advantage, but should there be a difference between the grading of a trailered car and a driven car? I have to say in the quest for a Gold Medallion, or a Gold Cup the expectation is that the car is essentially a best weather trailer loader. In all of the classes including the daily driver class, the cars that win are those that most closely approach new and unused condition-that is the nature of a car show, and certainly the aim of the ZCCA rules. Along the same line of driven vs trailered, should there be a difference in the grading of an owner restored car and a car that had a paid for restoration? I think maybe a separate award for acknowledgement of personal work-but even that is difficult to prove-one of the first Gold Medallion cars(also the one used by the Franklin Mint for their model) was built by Bill Reagan yet a year after it was sold the new owner claimed he had re-done all of the restoration....Pride makes people do strange things-what this means is maybe there could be different classes for both driven and owner restored cars, but I believe that some of those who work the advantages, would still work the advantages-My thought is if I want my work to go up against the best out there, it needs to go up against the best out there. Also and more to the point, to quote a friend of mine and a senior judge: "The shows are not about trophies, they are about cars." That said, The rules are getting a revamp this year-I have always thought it was kind of funny that the newer Zs have been graded on the same scale with the early cars given there is a huge plate/IM at the top of the late models engine compartment blocking view to most/all of the parts that get grimey on the early models! Detailing a slab at the top of the engine is just a wee bit easier than detailing a series 1 alternator...much less the entire engine and its compartment! Will

I agree that having the cars in place the day before the show would allow best efforts at detailing to be made, but that requires the hosting club/ZCCA to secure(and probably insure) an area that is normally a good distance from the actual convention-and usually not completely covered or easily securable. It would be nice to have the hotel and the show in close proximity, but I am sure that would create an entirely new set of complications/added expenses. The Ohio Team did go the extra mile in securring private garages for thise who chose to use them(I don't know if they ran out of availble spaces) As to the weather, it did the same thing and worse at Daytona. The wind the morning of the show whipped the curtians, and their chains, ultimately resulted in damage to a few cars-we didn't count that mornings damage in the exterior judging, nor did we get really picky about the underside of the cars-what could be got to with out laying on the wet ground we counted. Same thing went for Ohio. If it could be reached by stooping, it was judged. Right or wrong, the ZCCA rules don't address anything but the condition of the car, and what couldn't be judged on every car(a wet underside) we assumed to be good on every car. Will

I judged interior-I noted everything that I counted off for-to the point of running completely out of space! I like to let people improve their cars for the next show, so try to detail the sap out of anything I count off for. Will

Ron, I have a substitute knob I'll send you-looks right, but slightly different. Will

Search "Step Light"- Kats bought one on ebay a year or two ago-and he photographed and posted it. Will

1) Degreaser is the first step. If you use a water based one, boil the parts in it and they will come clean in one or two sessions-no need for a long soak. 2) Cleaning-wire brush/media blast/tumble/acid treat/-removes the corrosion that the original finish(normally a pretty iridescent gold Cadmium plating) took to keep the steel fasteners from rusting. 3) Coat with WD40 if you aren't going to take the parts to the plater immediately-to keep rust away. 4) Deliver the protected hardware to the plater(then go to step 5) or clean and coat yourself. 4a) DIY-Degrease again, and either paint(cadmium finish paint can be found here) or plate with a zinc/cad system from caswellplating.com (be sure to add the yellow chromate kit to duplicate the original finish)or equivalent.Follow the instructions accompanying the refinishing system you chose. (See step 6.) 5) Pick up the parts when they are ready 6) Reinstall. Will

I think Al's using two tiewraps to hold in the new A/c he installed in Larrys car goes the other way... Will

I have bought a HEALTHY number of parts from Rare Spares-excellent service, and good prices! Will

bwilderom, It would'nt worry me in the least, remove and remount where it suits you-as pointed out, everyone is sure it was in there, but no one but the installer can say exactly where! If that is the worst issue the car has, count your blessings! Carl, All of the earlier cars I have seen are mounted as you describe-most of the the '72 and '73s I have found out and about(unrestored chance encounters of "stored" cars) have been as I noted-at the times, I found it odd too, given AJ pointed out exactly what you said about installation time/allowance and bracketry(with a comment about proper pulley attatchment thrown in as well!)...It is very cool to have a genuine Nissan mechanic/early adopter enthusiast with you when you comes across an old Z where it was left. Will

Hi, and welcome to the club! That is the AC receiver/Dryer, they are typially mounted close, but not there. Moving it will only be an issue if the attatched hoses do not have enough slack. It also looks like you have a York/British Leyland piston type compressor mounted where the smog pump was, and that is probably the reason that location was attractive for the receiver/dryer. Most '72s and late that I have seen had the ac compressor mounted on the ds of the engine down low, instead of the ps up high as yours is. A/C was a dealer installed option, and not one installed at the factory. Dealers sold and used what they had, so it is possible that it is as it was sold new-though I have not seen one installed like that before. Will

I went out today to check on the paint and body progress on Larry's car. The paint was chemically stripped to about 70% clean so as to show the type and quality of metal repair Al did in his restoration of the car. What was found was: 1) More mismatched, un-restored, hardware-store fasteners securing everything-the Air conditioner condenser was held on with just two zip ties. 2) A healthy amount of dent repair was done with filler on top of two or more layers of paint-1/8" in places-indicating that the only attempt at sheet metal repair was to call for less filler, and not to correct the shape of the metal. 3) In many of the places where the layers of old paint were ground off, the metal was allowed to sit uncovered long enough to "brown" from exposure, and veins of rust had already started under the filler. 4) As illustrated earlier, the car had been hit front and rear, under the filler at the roof seam at the passenger side quarter window was one of six kinks in the chassis caused by front and rear impact. The passenger side measures almost one inch shorter than the drivers side, explaining the fact AL could not get the front bumper to bolt up on that side no matter how much he tweaked it. The Kinks also explained the torn spot welds on the core support. One thing I did not catch was the fact that the repair to the rear of the car was so poor that the taillight panel is actually leaning inward-explaining the voids at its attachment to the rear floor, and the buckling in the spare well and on either side of it in the rear floor-the rear panel was manipulated under pressure and welded in to fit, the area was not trammed correctly then the panel replaced after properly fitting it to the cut out area. Some of my pictures did not come out well, I will retake and post them in the next few days. The Gentleman Restoring the paint and body work is no stranger to concours work, among his many awards for his work his cars have won awards at: 1) Hilton Head Island Concours (Ferrari) 2)Shelby American Automobile Club (289 COBRA DRAGONSNAKE and 289 COBRA USRRC) 3) Pebble Beach Concours (1940 Continental Town car, made from a cabriolet, 1941 Continental Coupe-both restored for Director Joel Silver) 4) Amelia Island Concours (Ferrari 250GTO) Currently in the Spa with Larrys 240Z are a big Healey, a series 1 Jag XKE, and a Ferarri Testarossa, when I dropped the car off last week, there was a Rolls Royce Silver Cloud, An Aston Marton DB9, and some American muscle. As a side note, the gentleman who handled the Mechanical correction to Larry's car Grew up working in a Savannah Z specific garage. He was an ASE certified Master Mechanic by his eighteenth birthday. He spent several years working for Winston Cup Racing teams, was the track manager at Roebling Road and has built countless champion cars for privateers and large companies. Among his many victories he has the distinction of winning the Pan American Road Race, La Carrera PanAmerica, in a car he designed and built. Will PS-Yup that is Larry's car checking out the fanny of the Testarossa through the doorway...

It attached originally with the heat deformation of two plastic pins(the sprues) after insertion through the console. Removing the piece forces the bent over parts to be removed, frequently a reheat can hold them in, but a drop of silicone on the posts from the back works well and is easly removable if necessary. I'll post both sides of both pieces and a placed for installation pic as well. On the chrome-which wouuld you prefer-not being picky does not mean you do not have a preference! Pm me your address! Will

If you really want to floor a Nissan Parts Department, take in an original Parts Manual/service manual-I've done it twice, both times the counter person paged everyone in the parts department to have a look-seems like fireworks going off! oohs and aahs all around! Will

I bought the NOS ones to complete four NOS consoles I bought from Datsun Spirit a couple of years before-they are all spoken for, but I'll see if I have a really good used one-I collected several to use for molds before I found the NOS variety. It may take a week or two to find, but I will hunt for you. There are two versions of these, those with the outer perimeter in chrome, and those with out the chrome. I can put the chrome on one without if you want it that way, or leave it all black-up to you, the all black is the earlier version from what I have found. My NOS pieces have the chrome-I'll see about posting a picture for comparison/posterity when I round up the used ones. Will

Dejavu...:eek:. I have something in common with those guys:dead: Will

Old, you might have used a slide rule, but an abacus would date you...I had a Timex Sinclair 1000 bought from Cirtcuit City-both are gone now! Will

Rick, Good one mate! Will

I think you mean the rectangular panel with a Z in the middle and what looks like cutouts for switches. I bought a couple of NOS ones from new datsun parts-a couple of years ago-to complete my NOS consoles. Used ones occasionally show up on ebay, they are on my to be reproduced list... Will

Talk about a piece of History! Will

329 people know better-but my guess is they won't say anything:rolleyes:...but they'll know... If you had never said anything, you and the DMV would know-and trying to get info out of them is worse than pulling a spindle pin out of a corner that has been pulled and in the weeds for years! Will