hls30.com

I mounted it to the door sheet metal, using two holes that were already there (factory stamped) I will try to get a picture over the weekend. Will

Here is a thread on something close to this. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16625&highlight=taillight+lenses the readers digest version is: Supposedly, for about $200 a pair, the bare lenses(NO TRIM) can be reproduced in new materials, the lenses are not garanteed to be the same shade of red as the originals, but they are garanteed to match each other. I never have gotten a response about actually sending them a set to be reproduced. Will

I put locks on my 77 rebody with the actuators on the door pull rod(but mounted at the back of the door right beside the rear window channel, I will try to remember to get a picture when I go back over there. Will

Looks good! Will

Chris, 120lbs/18beers=6.7lbs per beer, that is either a hell of a mug, or a hell of a stein! I think the JDM covers finish the look of the front end, and a period appearing set of fog lamps are not out of place, but I agree with Carl that a good set of well adjusted headlights (especially modern headlights like Vicky mentioned)eliminates the need for them. Will

My black urethane bushings came from them three days after my immediate Paypal payment, two small tubs silicone grease come with the bushings-more than enough if you apply it carefully. My bushings are installed on the suspension parts, but the suspension is not yet on the car! Will

Dogma, In an S30, the door skins were wrapped around the door shell, crimped, and then painted, there is only a little sealer-no adhesive-in the seam. The crimp was the only structural fastener used. Will

You found the right product the first time!-there are several threads in which many of us have spoken of this bottled wonder! Will

Carl, My boy already has a hat! It is actually starting to fit his head better! Wll

ruf-er, nuf said! Will

You would be better off to send the money to support this club for the help you have received here, at least then you will have traded the money for something with real value, and not something with only a perception of value based on what you have already said you don't know! If you really want something to save that cash from burning a hole in your pocket, here it is, be sure to read all of the comments! http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=10657&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 Will

Bill, put the brick under the gas pedal, no on top of it. You are in control of the tickets, If you want another one, you know what to do, if you don't, you know what to do too! Guide to getting wealthy! Put that hat on ebay, describe it as a stained seething mass that used to belong to an ex-president. Say it happens to bear a striking resemblance to Richard Nixon in his early years. List it in a category that has no possable connection to it, but has the most traffic. You will be able to sell it, get a Factory Restoration Program Car, and still have money left over to buy "Breats and thights"! 'Course, you won't have your hat... Will

Welcome! Will

Here is my list 1) Correct the vengence time and neglect have beaten into the body of the car. Strip all of the paint and underocoating off, replace the floors and seat mounts, put patches in the frame rails, windshield recess, valence/under dash vent area, tillight panel, hatch shelf, and one in the body. 2) Update the body/frame. weld in rear swaybar mounts from a '76 280Z, rear seatbelt mounts from a '76 280Z 2+2, patch the antenna hole. Trim the spare cup to take a gas tank from a '76 280Z such that the car looks correct from the rear. 3) Suspension, replace all of the bushings with urethane, Section the front struts by 1.5", install coil overs, and Tokiko Illuminas, update the rear with illuminas as well-I am riding the fence about the shorter steering knuckles...Thoughts? 4) Drivetrain: Move the entire drive line(except for the drive shaft) from a 1983 280ZXT to the car-all the way down to the cv shafts. The part that will bite some of you in the a$$ is that it is an automatic. Ultimately I want a 4 speed automatic, and if I find one in time it will go in then. Use a Camero radiator, GM engine management, Ford injectors, and diffy mounts from a '76 280Z. Upgraded turbo(in my gallery), personally fabricated stainless exhaust, fuel rail, and maybe an intake manifold. I am going to use a 2400 valve cover, and some other pieces native to the 240Z engine bay to help to keep the "stock" look. The brakes are Toyota 4 pot with 300zx vented rotors in the front, and 280ZXT in the rear, with stainless lines at both ends. Wheels are set to be 15x7 Enkie mesh-might need a spacer. Tires are TBA Interior: The windows will be tinted with the lightest sputtered titaniun film I have found. I will be fabricating an airconditioning system to work off the original (Factory)controls-no aftermarket cooling control screwed to the console. I will update the materials in the interior, and rework the stock seats, but I want to keep the style of the original interior. All other plastic panels are NOS. The car will get power windows, but will retain the cranks. The dash has alreaady been redone by Dash Restorations, and I have replaced the tach with one from a '76 280Z. Outside: The bumpers will be clearcoated, the stainless is being polished, the lenses are all new except for the brakes which have been polished. It will be painted a dark bllue metalic. And of course the car will get a set of JDM (or reproduction) headlight covers. Will

gnosez caught the idea! Will

I was figuring you just caughed up a bush oyster all over your suspension!!! Will

What Carl said: Inject the grease and squeeze the nipple-tha almost sounds pornographic-I am sure your car will LOVE it! WIll

So what you are sayin' is there's interest as long as it's free ! Ahhhuh ! Will

Patience, patience, I am still working on it-get back to your CRUIZ!!! Will

I have got to give the choices more thought! Will

I have been watching, and I have bought from Orestes several times. He has always sent me what he has advertised, and quickly too! I am not really interested in those because he explains what he believes to be the differences pretty well. I would rather make copy of the best set obtainable than make a copy of a known inferior product. There are are some questions I would like some feedback on-rather than ask them here, I will make a poll, and get further explanation in the thread that follows it. Will

I have yet to figure that out. One end at a time! I am still considering the possabilities. I know the front will gain travel from the sectioning, but I am not sure that the rear really needs anymore. I am still pondering whether to just sew everything up with coil overs, or to move the perches and use the aftermarket Tokiko kit(selling the struts I won't use to offset the need for two others). Will

I was looking for an answer as to wheter or not sectioning the strut will necessitate a change of front cartridges as I thought it would. If there was a spacer, the answer might be no-depending on the size of the spacer. But it looks like taking 2" out of the front will force a change in the struts. I called Tokiko today, and have a fax number to send the measurements of the modified strut so that they can tell me what cartridges to use. Will

Thanks Capt mark, exactly whay I was after! Bryan, I paint one on each one just for you! Will