Broman

I had not considered using a liquid (paint on) coating...but it's worth a test.

Unfortunately with the ones from https://www.240zrubberparts.com/ you can get two single covers from each advertised item, but they are out of stock.

So while I am a fair ways off from applying color to my 71 240Z, I am trying to be sure I understand the painting sequence that Nissan used. When the car was ready to get shot with it's color coat, here is what I believe was installed, and therefore got painted the final color: - Two doors - Hood - Cowl panel and its four receiving "sockets" in the lower windshield frame - Two inspection doors (battery, clutch master) - Hood hinge assy with torsion rods - Two fenders - Two headlight buckets ("sugar scoops") - Front lower valance - Two front lower corners - Gas door - Two interior compartment doors (not applicable to Series I) - Interior sound deadening mats What I am not sure of: - Hood prop rod? - Door latches on door? - Door strikers on jamb? Did I miss anything?

I couldn't find any good write-up in other threads, so here goes. Regarding the dozen of thin, bendable harness tabs welded all over the body...a close inspection of mine confirms that they were covered in their rubber casings AFTER the color coat. I read some folks who said the rubber coatings were painted body color, but that clearly was not the case with mine (5/71 240Z). Anyway, since many of mine are broken off or cracked, I am looking for an authentic way to replace the black casings over these tabs. The commonly proposed solution is to use heat shrink, especially the kind that is adhesive-lined. But my issue is that regular heat-shrink comes in a sleeve and leaves an open end, whereas the originals are more of a cap than a sleeve. I have found a few potential options online from electrical firms that make "heat shrink caps" (heat-shrink with one end pre-sealed). I will test those and report back. But has anyone else solved this issue already?