w3wilkes

Was it you that said you're also going with a RetroSound radio head unit? If so, it does have a couple of USB dongles. I asked RetroSound if those will charge and they said no so of course I had to test. They seem to charge my Moto X4 just fine. I use Bluetooth from the phone to the radio head unit to play music from the PowerAmp app on my phone. The phone function of the RetroSound also works great. I just clipped the mic to the dashboard bottom on the driver side just above the console. Wilkes Here's my cruisin' song list ?

I used a different set from Wesco because it can be installed in the series 1 car without having to drill additional holes. I didn't have to remove the console for the inner buckle strap install. I used the stock attachment point that is accessible without removing the console. I doubt the MSA belt would require console removal, from the picture it looks like the inner belt piece uses the stock mounting point too. https://www.wescoperformance.com/roadster-seat-belt-eb.html

I went with these in the stock buckets, even was able to fit the anti-flicker block in the stock buckets too. https://www.eaglelights.com/collections/jeep-led-kits/products/eagle-lights-7-round-led-headlights-jeep-wrangler-cj-jk-tj-97-2015 Had to use the anti-flicker block with the stock headlight wiring. I've just swapped to the MSA headlight relay upgrade and will see if I can remove the anti-flicker blocks. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4651 I think the headlight relay kit changes the wiring so that the center post is ground rather than the 2 outer posts which is stock. I 1st tried without the blocks and the lights wouldn't come on at all. I think the blocks changed the polarity so I had light. When I get around to trying again without the blocks I'll let you know if my thinking is correct. Here's my initial thoughts when I first installed the lights.

Currently running Bridgestone Ecopia 205/60 R15 https://www.bridgestonetire.com/tire/ecopia-ep422-plus/205-60r15 Next time I think I'll go BFG T/A's black wall out (if I was talking a '72 Chevelle 396 SS it would be white letters out) https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/bfgoodrich-radial-t-a/p/38370

I can remember paying 27¢ when I was in high school. I could cruise the whole weekend for less than $5.

I like that steering wheel. All the 240Z wheels I've seen before have different spokes than what you have. The series 1 cars don't have the holes punched out, they're just indented where the holes on this wheel are.

I really like what you did with the graphics! Subtle, not too flashy, nice touch.

Depends on what you call original. The wiring harness is prewired for an electric fuel pump. You've removed the evap tank and removed venting from the fuel tank, turned the remaining top vent in the tank 180 degrees. If you're an original purist you should probably stay with the mechanical pump. Here's a thread on rebuilding the original pump.

Thanks, this is helpful.

@KONI Lee Do you know how many turns from full soft to full hard?

Nice score on the hatch window louvers! I'd like to get some of those.

This looks great, waiting to see how the defroster and vent ducts fit. I'm guessing there's plenty of room for your radio or stereo?

Ooooh, go for the Ranchero next to it also.

Fancy!

Thanks, that's the car alright. Come May when I go back north I'll post a picture of it in the concourse at Steamboat. Did you ever go to the races in Steamboat? RMVR got vintage street racing started back up after a 6 year hiatus in 2017 in Snowmass, CO the 2nd weekend following Labor Day. We went that year, but missed 2018. We hope to be back for 2019. We get a condo inside the track. The cars start practice runs at about 09:00 so that's when we mix up Bloody Mary's and walk outside to watch the cars run, what a blast! Here's a shot from the races, a 280 at the show that came up from Denver and my grandson and granddaughter being studly sitting in little formula cars at the show..

Thanks to both of you @Captain Obvious and @KONI Lee

Thanks for the clarity, I thought that's pretty much what I said about the shaft volume increasing in the strut is what compresses the gas. Since these new Koni's are adjustable, I'd guess that the adjustment is to what you refer to as the "damper valve(s)" which changes how easily the oil can move through the plate attached to the shaft. The more open the Damper valve(s), the softer the ride.

So in you diagram the plate (red arrows) inside the strut that the shaft is attached to has holes so the oil flows through the plate and it's the additional shaft volume inside the strut that compresses the gas. This plate is to keep the shaft centered in the strut. This does make sense to me.

Question, taxing your memory... When you went to ZCCA convention in CO was there a guy named Larry Hutfulls (probably misspelled) in the CO club? There used to be vintage cars races on the streets of Steamboat Springs and a concourse show over Labor Day weekend that my wife and I would go to from 91 through 2000 (last year they were held in Steamboat). In 91 or 92 there was a very nice 240Z in the show and I talked to the guy and he mentioned the Z car club in Denver and I thought that's what he said his name was. The car was like a dark purple, very nicely done.

Good point, I now realize that!

Thanks for grabbing the video! Nice car and music even though I can't understand the lyrics. Can't tell what year the car is, guessing somewhere between 74 - 78, Did those years keep the small bumpers in Japan?

Can't see the video here, say's it hasn't been made available in your country. If I can't see it, it didn't happen.

Yes, looks just like my series 1 car. If you go electric fuel pump the connector to jumper to get power back to the fuel pump wires is in that bundle of wires. The car has wiring for an electric pump already installed, that's the other pair of wires back at the fuel gauge sending unit back at the tank. It's a good idea to put an inertia switch in the jumper loop so the fuel pump would be shut off in a crash.

Just had a thought since you ordered the new tank straps from Skillard. These straps should have a rubber insulator between the strap and the tank. You can get them from ZCar depot https://zcardepot.com/products/fuel-tank-rubber-strap-isolators-240z-260z-280z?variant=19274419437681&gclid=CjwKCAiAqaTjBRAdEiwAOdx9xlj3VBstKlgn_BJhwBWrINtQJsFKckUXPAgKXU1fGLg1u9gI09QnxhoC5N0QAvD_BwE#

Thanks! I had not noticed that on ZHome before.