David F

Correct, with the pollution controls removed, screw #13 is no longer part of the equation and can be ignored...that part of the linkage is just flopping around with nothing to do. It's simple: 0. Check float bowl fuel level and make adjustments as necessary. 1. Back off screw #8 fully 2. Balance carbs with screw #10 to the correct idle speed. (adjust mixture at this stage) 3. Increase engine speed with screw #8. 4. Balance carb linkage with screw #14. 5. Back off screw #8 fully. 6. Done.

Opinion: paint. You are going all out for sure. I find that after media blasting, the parts have sufficient "tooth" that primer is not necessary. I paint with rattle can Satin black directly on blasted parts. Paints lasts years.

I have one of those kits...not very useful IMHO.

So, tell me why you bothered dragging that dog home? Where there even any good parts on it? Wait, maybe some are already headed my way!!!

The carpet clips were used on the left and right front floorboard carpet. Z shaped tabs protrude from the floor just ahead of the front seat risers. The Z tabs passed through slits in the carpet and the clips in question installed over the carpet with the wavy leg under the Z tab. I believe Nissan shipped the clips in the glove box as the carpet may have been installed once the car arrived at port of destination or by dealer. The reproduction clips are stainless steel, so not technically correct.

Duffy, you may totally right on the hub paint debate, please don’t take my comment as critisim. Also, I totally understand your approach with this car and I am doing basically the same thing. Your doing a great job.

That is what I do for basic alignment, just measure tire to tire at front and back of tire. Suspension must be settled. Your adjustment should be half of what is measured or difference from desired setting. Sometimes I measure from a tread groove and sometimes I put a chalk line down the center. Easier to hook a tape measure on a tread groove. BTW, I think the old timer was correct as well. Might want to consider removing the powder coat from the face of the hub. If you are worried about rust, just smear a light coat of anti-sieze or grease on the face of the hub...very light. My guess is that the powder coat is going to stick to the back of the wheel and come off in chucks eventually...then it may even be more problematic. But, I could be wrong. Hope you report back on that one.

Why would I do any browsing when I don't own a zx? I was just trying to help and even said I had no idea if a zx even had a CPS...I guessed it might not. Oh well, no harm in trying. Hope the OP figures it out. What type of system is it any? Bosch L Jetronic?

Brother-In-Law

Let me start by saying I know absolutely nothing about the EFI system in the 280zx. But, I will guess it is manufactured by Bosch. With that said, does the system utilize a crank position sensor? If so, I would check the CPS first and foremost. A failed CPS will definitely caused a no start condition with the occasional attempt at firing. I suspect that apply voltage to an injector is simple bypassing the function of the CPS and injecting fuel into the cylinder constantly...if spark, it has to fire. FWIW, hope it helps. BTW, although I own a carbureted 240z, I own or have owned a lot of current and vintage BMW's which when afflicted with a no start condition have almost always been the result of a failed CPS or camshaft position sensor (assuming fuel pressure is present). Heck, my B-I-L even had the same problem with his Testarossa. He was showing me the Ferrari one day and it would not start...tried, but would not catch. I immediately searched for and found the CPS wiring. A quick unplug and reconnect of the CPS connection block and the engine fired right up. And no, I did not ask my B-I-L for $500 for the repair Good luck!

I have sprayed both and generally stay with what the factory did. For me, the only positive of single stage over 2 stage is it takes less time and is generally less expensive...shoot, that's two things. If metallic, always 2 stage. I usually paint the clear right over minor "dust" that lands in the color coat when spraying 2 stage. The clear hides it well after cut and buff. I really don't see how you would get anything out of the color coat anyway (I don't let the color coat dry before shooting the clear). With metallic, you are not sanding the color coat anyway without ruining it. With my new to me '72 (purchased 3/17), I am doing spot rust repairs and repainting with the proper color mix of Dupont Fulthane (single stage). afterward, the entire body will eventually get repainted.

The issue has been found and corrected with the help of forum member via PM and my trusty VOM. I do apologize to the OP for hijacking his thread.

Tell me again who has the attitude? I know how to use the meter. Thanks anyway. I wanted help, not arrogance. Not sure how you came to your conclusion from my first post. Obviously you are not the one to help me.

Thanks, but I don't need a test light to show/tell may anything that my VOM won't tell me. And, a fuse that blows and a fuse that gets too hot are very similar...both are drawing too much amperage. Why might be the difference. I just need to trace each circuit feed by the the running light fuse. I have verified my combo switch works as it should and I got the mechanicals of the dimmer switch working properly.

I have a similar issue: I have spent the last couple of months bringing my '72 back to life from a long slumber. When it came time to check all the lighting, I noticed none of the running lamps worked at all. Checked fuse...yep, blown. Replaced fuse without it blowing (20A, switch off). But, turning the light switch to position one produced no light and the fuse becomes too hot to keep a finger on the terminal (but fuse did not blow). I traced the green/blue wire to the right side firewall junctions and get continuity to three wires at the junction block with the green/blue wire. One of them is a large gauge red wire. I don't think this is correct, so I need to start at the switch which I will do tonight. Will remove the switch and confirm it behalves as indicated on the wiring diagram. Any other suggestions? Might help both me and the OP. Incidentally, I removed the fuse block and it is perfect...no loose connections or discolored (from heat) terminals. Headlights work, dimmer does not (might be relay...need to check that, or switch...will check when checking combo switch).

I think the missing step and cause of the metal warping during welding is that Jeff is not "planishing" the spot welds as he goes. Just like the metal shrinking technique that Jeff used to fix oil canning, each spot weld shrinks the metal when it cools and creates little stress points at each weld. If you grind down the spot welds (after each pass around the repair area) followed by a little hammer and dollie work, you relieve the stresses in the spot welds that cause metal warping to occur. Repeat after each pass. The issue is that it takes a lot of extra time and work and sometimes a little judicial panel beating and filler is much faster/easier. Simply "google" planishing for the details.

Soda blasting?

I heard that running the file over a bar of soap now and then keeps the file from clogging with aluminum. Well, actually I heard this technique for grinding disks, but the theory should be the same. Tube looks awesome...me, too lazy to attempt such a thing. But, I am smack dab in the middle of polishing a vintage Airstream trailer. The effort is messy, and tiring for sure...after a few hours, I turn black.

I have been using the same plating solution for years now, so memory is vague. But, the short answer is yes...I used a Vinegar/water solution with a bit of saccharin added in for brightness. Lot's of good info online on how to electroplate. I have some zinc chromate solution for the yellow look when I think it adds to the part, but I am not doing a purest's restoration of my car... just a refresh to make it look decent, mostly rust free, and reliable. Consequently, most parts just end up bright galvanized for rust protection without resorting to clear lacquer which I thinks looks awful. Edit: Just noticed you are taking your parts to the platter. Still, you should consider doing your own.

Absolutely, I just plated the same parts at home on Monday (Labor day). Only problem is getting the zinc in the spring pocket (shadowing effect). My rear deck limit stops don't have the fillers as shown above. Not sure about commercial platers as I do my own electro plating at home. Also, and probably obviously, the plastic part will shield the metal below from the plating process. So, don't move the plastic when media blasting.

I am new to Z cars and recently got my 1972 240z running after 15 years of storage. It definitely had a return to idle issue that I thought was pollution equipment related. After removing all the pollution equipment, the problem remained. I had rebuilt the carbs and new the throttle valve linkage was well lubricated and easily returned to fully closed position. So, something else had to be wrong. Turned out all that was required was removing all ball joints cleaning out the old grease and gunk, apply some new white grease and presto: very smooth throttle that returns to idle every time. Don't forget the linkage that goes through the firewall.

OK, make sure you have thrown away the cup filter in the gun...never use it. Make sure the gun is properly clean and spray some water through it to clear any "left over" solvents/reducers. Only fill the cup through a fine mesh paper strainer. Possibly the paint still needs to be reduced/thinned with water so the paint runs easily off the mixing stick in a 1/8" diameter stream or so. Test spray (for pattern, volume, trash, etc.) on cardboard or something other than your freshly prepped panel...no fun re-prepping the panel. Just curious, why are you using water based base coat?

Sorry for dragging up old thread, But.... I am working on getting my newly acquired, mostly original '72 running again after a 15 year slumber. Replacing the entire fuel system (and brakes, coolant, etc) and decided to pick up a new fuel pump from Autozone (had them in stock). I assumed the pump would be the cheap looking aftermarket pump with the one piece stamped metal cover assembly. Low and behold a very proper looking 5 screw pump was in the box. Cost was $34. Looking over the pump, I could not find any manufacturer markings at all on the pump....just a few numbers inked on the top of the pump. Looks right, hopefully it work right. Just an FYI.

What did you thin the water based paint with? Should only be thinned with distilled water. I have limited experience spraying water base coat, but recall using 1.3mm tip HVLP gun with 10psi pressure at the tip (30 at gun). This setup yielded satisfactory results.

What about mounting the actuator in the bottom of the door or away from the window track and using a bellcrank to redirect the linear motion as needed.