Ed

is if you did fight it and Mr Law man decides that the PO had no right to sell the car and that the car rightfully belongs to the PPO. You would then be out any money you put into it.

Sorry to hear that. Can think of a few things I would like to say:tapemouth . On the brite side. Learn as much from this car as you can. Take a lot of pictures & measurements. You might race against this car someday and the info could be usefull.

Does the lift adjust in width?

I know a guy in east San Diego that will put a Chevy BB 454 in your Z. He can also modify the rear end. He is very good. Been drag racing Z's for years.

Depending on how many miles and the climate. But in warm temps a 10-40 or 10-30 will be good for the engine. For the tranny or diff. Use 80W gear oil.

There is a member here on this site that was selling his Arizona Intake. He's Jeff1216. I don't know if he still has it.

I'm trying to clean my A-arms and front cross member so I can paint them. My question is how do I get into those small crevaces? There is a plate welded over the channel making it impossible to sandblast in there. I was thinking of taking it to my plater and having them dip the pieces in acid. What can you guys suggest?

Oh yea, Pictures!

Congratulations! Boy you got a deal. I've got one little piece of advice. If the car still has the original carbs (flat tops). Don't waste your time rebuilding them. Parts are pretty hard to find and they are pretty difficult to tune. If they run just leave them for now and get yourself a pair of round tops (71-72). Rebuild those and you will be a happier man. Good luck. Ed

Just a little curious. What would be the production date or vin of the last 240?

I was hoping for something a little more graphic.:dead:

Not an easy question, First off you can't really see any major damage from your pictures. But to give you a little idea, figure how much time will it take one person to properly replace rusted sheet metal. For instance take a floor board. You have to remove the seat, carpet and some upholstery. Then all the rusted metal must be removed. If you went and replaced the entire floor board with ones from zedfindings along with the framerail then you could have a good idea of how much work your looking at. Maybe (I'm guessing here) if he's lucky or experienced 5-10 hours? (totaly depends on how much rust there is)?? Multiply that by $60 dollars U.S. per hour (could be more expensive, still guessing here). You also mentioned some rust by the sun roof and rear window, again it all depends how easy it will be to replace the metal. Now he could do a wizz poor job and just grind away the visible rust then fill it with some type of body filler that would be cheaper but not permanent. Then after the body is ready were looking at paint. Now if you want your car to look good for just a few months. Earl Sheib is your man (sp). But if you want that paint to shine for years and to be able to see the reflection of the trees 1/2 a mile away your talking $$$$. A cheap paint job $200. Good paint job $2000. Excellent paint job $4000. The paint job in the attachment is an excellent paint job. On my car I'm going to do all the sheet metal myself. Strip and prep as much as I can, then take it to the body man to have it painted. And I am expecting to pay atleast $4000 for my paint job. I hope someone else can give you better news. Good luck Ed

That is awsome! At first I thought the body kit and the sub 20 rims would do the trick. Not to mention the wing.

It goes on top of the radiator support. Right (starboard) side. BTW MikeW is that a chain around your water pump pulley? Edit: You position the sticker facing back. Like you are reading it from the engine bay. By the way where did you get the sticker from?

Are those ceramic coated header's from MSA guaranteed not to rust? And what is the benifit of a 6-2 vs a 6-1?

What kind of car's does your brother like? Either he's a family man and drives a minivan (hey that rhymes). Or he's a gearhead and likes american muscle car's (big cars made to go straight and fast). Or he's young and is into the ricer fad.:sick: The reason's I like my Zed: It's a two seater Sexy curves & lines Affordable and available Fast and agile Easy to work on Classic Old Has never let me down and.... this web site!

Since I've modified my pedals I guess I can't play.:disappoin My brake pedal did have numbers but my clutch didn't.

What? Is this for 2005???? Who's getting the boot? Couthard or Raikonen?

Phred, Great advice for a race engine. If you don't mind me asking, what about a street engine, using stock factory parts? What kind of "break in" would you recommend?

I do believe that is the "Five spoke aluminum mag wheel". I've seen them in different sizes. From 4 1/2 inches wide to 7 inches wide. Also some of them have four small holes in the center of the rim for the screw on cap. I got mine from: All Z Auto Wrecking, unfortunately for you they are in San Diego. But If you can't find anything around there you might want to give them a try. (619) 421-5881 their address is: 793 B&C Energy Way Chula Vista, CA 91911 Good Luck