Jaymanbikes

Hi HaZ, very interested to see how you like the Polk speakers. I also have the Retrosound head, Additionaly I have the Retrosound 6x9's, a Small JVC powered sub behind the passenger seat the small Retrosound Amp and Pyle front speakers in the same "kick panels" you have. The base and sound from the rear of the car is great, the front however seems really weak and I'm wondering how you like the Polk's you have? As you know, space is extremely limited with those panels. Also, I followed your build and have plagurized a number of your ideas! Thanks for doing such a great write up on your car. I have referred to it many many times. Jay

I was the one who installed the Whiteline bushings from WhiteHead. I ordered them 3-4 months ago and just got around to installing a couple weeks ago. I converted over from the pro-thane bushings and the Whiteline bushings did a good job of quieting things down. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Whiteheadperformance.com Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

The clunk is gone...The new bushings are black and shiny, also notice the taper on the end of the bushing. See the first pic. The green stuff is a marine grease I used to keep the washer in place as I installed the bar. The bushings were extremely tight, I had to shave a small amount of material to get them pressed into the bar. The old ones are Prothane, see second pic. I purchased them in a kit from Zcardepot. they are dullish and and have no taper.

OK, looks like I had everything correct on the struts. I reassembled everything, I also installed a set of the Whiteline Mustache Bar bushings which are supposed to be a lower durometer than the standard Poly bushings. Well, I must say the bushings made a huge difference, reduced road noise and gear whine significantly. I wasn't really expecting that big a difference, they feel just slightly softer to the touch.

So I finally got around to disassembling one of my rear struts. The gland nut hits the top of the strut cartridge and thus does not allow the gland nut to bottom out. Also, inside the gland nut is a sleeve that is removable and pictured. This is the gland nut that came with the KYB struts, the instructions that came with the struts was very generic and zero help. Thanks for any suggestions. I am hoping that this might be the root cause of my suspension noise when going over sharp bumps.

Thanks for the info. How did you run your wires from the door into the cabin. Was it necessary to remove the doors?

Dave, interested to see how you routed your wiring into the doors? Also, what power door lock kit did you use? Looking on EBay most of the actuators appear to be the same and are priced from one extreme to the other. Thanks!

You can view the other pictures on Elite Autos site. They have some really high end cars. If you look through their sales history you will see they sold another 240 awhile back.

I will give it a rip when I get sometime to experiment, reinstall the master. Weird the ZX master is designed for a car with Disc front brakes to the best of my knowledge.

Well, I reassembled it with the working master and didn't think to take a pic before I did so. I have a car event to attend Saturday so wanted it up and going. The one that I am referring to as stock was replaced by me when I got the car a year ago. It does say 7/8 on the body. I also replaced the booster at the time. I didn't adjust the push rod at the time and I guess I just lucked out that it was in the correct position.

I got another master installed it, shimmed it out, still same issue as the first go round, system is holding pressure. Here is what I have under the adaptor in the ZX master.

We rebuilt my 5spd from my 77 280z, I purchased the kit from Z Car Depot, it was reasonably complete.

Visually they look almost identical. I'm thinking there is something wrong possibly with the new ZX master, I'm going to return it and get another. Someday when I don't have anything else to do I will try and reinstall. I'm pretty happy with how the car is braking at this point.

Here's an update. I went ahead and pulled the master, as mentioned, it is for a ZX and I compared the depth of the piston to the stock master. According to my very rough caliper measurements, the stock master piston is substantially closer to the push rod than the ZX unit, I had thought it would be the other way around. I then decided to reinstall the stock one. The end result is the brakes work great! I had originally purchased the new ZX master because it was recommended with the Toyota brakes, the stock one works just fine. Thanks to all that chimed in on this!

Great idea, thanks for the suggestion! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

What material would use for the shim? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

That's my guess, I am going to put my stock master back on tomorrow and see if it clears the issue. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Perfect clearance meaning no rubbing on the pads. Once I bleed them and while it was still in the air they were dragging a bit. I then took it for a short drive 4-5 miles and they got worse, I started headed back and by the time I go back they were really hot. They were then sticking so bad I could not even push the car at all in my garage.

I changed my 77 280z front disc calipers to the Toyota PU Calipers and the ZX master cylinder. Everything fit perfectly, clearance between the pads and the rotors was perfect. I then bled the system and both fronts are sticking. If it were one side I would say bad caliper but both are doing the same thing. Any thoughts one what might be happening?

That's an easy try! Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks, will double check that next time I have it on the lift Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Yep, I replaced that as well. It sounds sort of like what you would think a loose strut would sound like.

I rebuilt my entire suspension about 8 months ago, I used the prothane bushings throughout. At the same time I replaced my struts with KYB's and installed lowering springs. The car has a slight clunk in the rear when I hit small sharpe bumps, a good example would be small traffic markers. I have double checked every nut and bolt and they are torqued to spec. The lowering springs do not seat into the perch's until the car is loaded and I am wondering if that might be the source of the clunk. I did zip tie the springs to the lower perchs but that didn't help. The cars suspension was original and had a lot of noises to start with so I'm not certain if this was there to begin with or not. Thanks to all! Jay

Bought my car from a customer of mine in Atlanta. He was the original owner and the car sat in his warehouse under a cover undriven for about the last 10 years. It had 77k miles and was completely original. I have made some mods and cleaned it up a lot. I made sure to keep all the original parts in case I want to return it to stock.