gotham22

As I am going through the engine and I found this less than ideal electrical connection. 🙂 Does anyone know if this part can be replaced or fixed? Searching on google only resulted in deletion plates but not the part. Also, I made a very bad rookie mistake. My labels fell of my wires and I am not 100% sure I know which is my cold start connector and which is for the aux air. How screwed am I?

Its been sometime since I posted. Finally getting back to work on the car. The engine and transmission is in!! Goal is to drive this summer! I realized I am missing a prop shaft bolt. Can I use a regular Hex bolt or does it have to have the square side like this one?

All thanks for the help! I got it together! I removed the clutch and re-centered it and I still could not close that gap. It made no sense. So I removed the clutch again and I removed the pilot bushing that I had put on about a month ago. The bushing's inner diameter is slightly too large and does not fit over the spindle. But the plastic tool worked just fine which is why I didn't think of this at first. WTF??!! Luckily as I was searching through my parts boxes I had bought another one on ebay a long time ago and forgot I had it. Once I put the new one in and put the clutch back on the whole job took 5 mins to align. She is ready to go back in! Been a long time coming.

Thanks Dave,That makes sense. I have the bell housing solid dowel installed. The hollow ones were mangled by PO. Do I need to get new ones or will the solid one suffice? I will remove and re-add the clutch today. I have another pilot bushing so if this one is damaged I can replace it.

Having trouble putting the transmission back on. It seems like no matter what I do I always have a gap and can not fit it flush to the engine. I tried using longer bolts with washers as spacers to see if I could pull it in and close the gap. It did work to an extent but not enough to use the actual bolts.It doesn't look like the clutch is interfering with the install. I do not see any reason why there would be a gap, it looks like I assembled everything correctly. I know the splines were matching because if I turned the engine crank I saw it turning on the rear side of the transmission. Anyone seen something like this before? Any ideas or tricks that I am unaware of. The engine and transmission are out of the car. It is the same engine and transmission I pulled. The clutch and pressure plate are new and so is the pilot bushing. The bushing is the same size as the one I removed. The engine is on a hoist.

Engine and bay done. Assembling the front suspension. Finally putting things back on the car!!!

Also painted the block.

New paint. Very happy with it

Happy to report that I removed the injector holder screw by drilling and tapping. Also removed one of the three studs from the exhaust manifold via welding a nut. The other two snapped even more after welding. Again drill and tap. Fly wheel is off and main seal is next We are moving end of July beginning of August. I told me wife I am driving to the new house. Now I have to make it happen.

Thanks Zed. I figure that was probably my only option

sorry for upside down pics

Now for the good news. Masked, primed and started painting the engine bay! Did not buy nearly enough paint so now I have to wait.

To clarify, this is a screw for the fuel injector mount

I was removing the fuel rail and I ran into 4 tough screws towards the front of the engine. This one screw snapped and had I had nothing to grab. I tried a screw extractor which did nothing. As you can see I am just making the problem worse. Any ideas?

From what I understand the 74 260z is the same as the 280z. If you I have one I am interested. I will send you a pm.

I didn’t see a whole lot of them online which I was thinking of salvaging one. And I was trying not to spend $400. I didn’t see the post about the wrecking yard. Do you have a link?

thanks Patcon/Grannyknot. After consideration I think I am going to try to repair A as it is overall in better shape. If I can't get that to work then I have plan B, literally! Your advice is greatly appreciated. Will update the post once I begin work.

I ran into a problem and I do not know what the best solution is. I have two different cross members and I am not sure which is the right one (easier) to repair. Cross member A has a better under side. Cross member B has a better top side. In the close up's you can see the damage to A. I am assuming that I should take the bottom of A and somehow weld it on B. Is that the right approach? Should I cut and replace the section where I drew the yellow boxes? How would I separate the bottom of the crossmember from the top section. It looks like there are two pieces welded together.

Steady progress is being made. The grease popped the stuck caliper pistons nicely. However, it then clogged up the inner passage ways. After a lot of trial and error (air and various cleaners did nothing) I was able to put both pistons half way in and grip them so they wouldn't move then I used compressed air. Few times like this and they finally unplugged. Tested with carb cleaner multiple times and saw it come out the other side. Looks like it is all good now. Next I disassembled the hubs and removed the bearings and races. Lastly shocks and struts have been replaced and I bought new ball joints. Front suspension is getting close. I was so proud of myself when I finished the first shock and strut and then I realized I put on the rear springs. Posting the picture of what it should NOT look like. I know nothing here is too earth shattering but I can't believe I have gotten this far. ''

got it, the solvent should clear the inner passage ways right? The projects that should be easy are always the worst. I received some goodies yesterday - KYB shocks, Eibach springs and new rotors

One question, the brake piston was freezed and I needed to use a grease gun to push them out. Now that they are out how do I clean the grease inside the caliper

Making progress! Got the hubs off and started rebuilding the calipers.

great thanks. Will take a look

Site unseen do you have the link by any chance

getting more done. Next moving on to the wheel hub bearings and rotors