gotham22

I forgot to mention. I removed the spark plugs one by one yesterday and the sound did not change.

Thanks Racer X. I have those gauges as well

Thanks, Captain. I replaced the injectors so it is possible these are louder. The engine definitely sounds better now that the I re-adjusted the valves. I will have to do it while it is hot next. I think, as you said, next step is to fix exhaust leak. Thanks for the help. Without this forum I would never be at this point and so close

IMG_3637.mp4 Smok

Some more info and pics. I have an exhaust leak as I see smoke. I cant tell if it is from the exhaust down pipe connection or possible the connection that leads to the EGR. Not sure if this is a separate issue.

if it is ticking then it needs to be tighter, correct?

I checked all the valves. I few of them were too tight as you guys mentioned. Here is the new video. It sounds much better but I am still getting that clicking noise. vlc-record-2021-05-31-19h26m06s-IMG_3625.mp4-.mp4

It has to be a mistake by me. I thought I adjusted them all correctly when I had the engine out. Guess not

fingers crossed! Will check tonight. To double check a cold engine Intake is .20 and Exhaust is .24?

I opened the cover and I do not see anything loose or broken. I will check the lash tomorrow

After work today I am going to open it up and see what I find.

right, I didn't touch those as they engine was running fine before removal

I forgot the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the down pipe. While unbolting I broke a stud. uggghh! Waiting for new studs to come in now. Will lash the valves in the meantime.

I did lash the valves before I put the engine back in but I will check again. As Zed Head suggested - here is the current situation All the structural damage has been professionally repaired. Engine ran fine before removal. I did a compression test and it looked good. Engine Work done: new fuel injectors oil pan gasket lashed valves replaced EGR new oil filter rear main seal pilot bushing new master cylinder for clutch and brakes Transmission: clutch fork pivot ball throw out bearing new fly wheel and clutch Suspension: full rebuild of front suspension rebuild of brakes new wheel bearings new hubs

Reading somewhere that this might be an exhaust leak. Is that possible. I do have some white smoke

Well, I was able to start the engine which is a great thing....but now it sounds like this. Where do I start troubleshooting? IMG_3607.mp4

makes sense, thanks grannyknot

I am assuming that it will still work if deleted but not be as safe, correct? Can anyone help with question 2 and 3 in the previous post

I dont have that valve. I guess the previous owner removed it?

it looks like my valve doesn't have a connector for the wire.

One more question regarding the charcoal canister. Does anyone know what connects to this t-fitting?

Making great progress getting all the engine parts back together. Ran into a couple of wiring questions, hope you guys can help 1. I have two bullet connectors near the brake master cylinder and I do not know where they connect to 2. where do the white and blue wires with bullet connectors go to? 3. this wire is broken and I am not sure where it goes

thanks mailnome, I will give it a try. Hoping the wire itself still works. fingers crossed

Guys, anyone know how to fix the BCCD wire? Or do I need to find a new solenoid? Also, thought I'd share a tip. I needed to do some touch up painting in the engine bay. I bought a Master Airbrush Model G22 on amazon. It was 25 bucks and it works great. I highly recommend

Is there a way to fix that connector? Or buy a new one? I still cant find one online. Also, another terrible rookie mistake: I just found out that the thermotime polarity actually matters unlike the fuel injectors. How can I determine which is hot and which is ground? The battery and the rest of the wiring is disconnected so I am going to have to wait until I get that all done. Once done can I start the car with it unplugged and use a meter?