gotham22

Can someone tell me what connects to this t fitting from the carbon canister? I cant figure out where this hose goes.

I started putting my front bumper back on the car and I noticed I have a problem with a broken bolt. Does anyone know how I can fix this? I really do not want to have to buy a replacement.

Thanks for all the replies. Even though I lubricated this piece I had to remove it as it will still the cause. Fully cleaned and lubricated and everything is working great now

I am having trouble with my gas pedal sticking. If you push all the way down and then let go it pops back up. However, if gently press it the pedal it will not return to the up position. I replaced the throttle spring but that didn't help. Is there a specific specification for the spring? I also fully cleaned the linkage to make sure there was not dirt or grime holding it up. IMG_5896.mp4

Been a long time since I posted. I want to thank everyone for their help. Turned out to be the horn. I don't have the horn connected in front but the steering wheel was making contact

this is probably my fault. I thought for sure it was the starter but then I i pulled the wire and the battery still drains

SteveJ, I got all the items and did your test. I tested the light on the battery first to make sure it worked. I then went one by one on the fusible links and it did not light up for any of them. I attached some pictures of the fusible links in case it helps. The light is not on in the car and the clock never worked. I did not always have this battery issue.

Great suggestion SteveJ thanks for the help. I will try that

It has to be something else. I see the voltage drop in days and not months. I am not sure where this is coming from. It never did this before and I haven't touched the car in months. Too cold to work on during the winter. Time to pull fuses

Let me check again and make sure the drain is coming from the starter. I thought I narrowed it down to that but now I am second guessing myself

Good point, let me check that. Thanks for the help, appreciate it. Will update the thread in a couple of days

From the solenoid terminal to the ground is .8 as well. I left it disconnected for now to see if something else is draining the battery. Should know in a few days

Ok, so from the negative terminal on the battery to the black yellow wire I see .8mV is that enough to drain the battery over time?

I have a 1977 280z and recently the battery was draining for an unknown reason. I do not drive the car, it sitting in my garage. I also do not leave the key in the ignition. After a lot of trial and error I noticed when I disconnect the black and yellow wire from the starter the battery remains charged. Once connected it starts a slow drain. When the battery is charged the starter works well. Any ideas what to look for and see why the starter would drain the battery?

For once this was an easy fix and I feel dumb bringing it to this forum. Sorry. Few blasts of break cleaner and then some Gibbs lubricant has it working again. Thanks for all the help.

After reading the advice given here I did some more investigating. I tried to latch the mechanism manually and it definitely feels gummed up. It does go into the second position but if I take a screw driver and give it a little pressure it easily pops back to the first position. Definitely night and day with how this works on the driver side of the car. I guess I need to replace it. Adding some pics just in case.

The car is a 78z. I thought that was in my profile, sorry for leaving out the info. I will post more pictures today. The door never closed properly but I saw that the weather stripping was not letting it close so I thought this would be an easy fix. I can manually latch to the second position.

I am struggling to get the passenger door to close fully. It seems like it only catches to the safety point but never fully closes. I adjusted the door striker in every which way but can not find a position to make this work. I removed the weather stripping as well to rule that out as a possible cause. The door seems to line up when I close the door. Can anyone shed some light on what I should try to do next? IMG_5250.mp4

there were a couple that were loose. I adjusted it while hot. Then I ran the engine and did a second adjustment. I think I finally got it. Sounds good now, right?

great news! it was just a valve adjustment when the engine was hot. IMG_3807.mp4

Been slow progress but I wanted to send an update. Oil pressure seems good. Its around 20psi during idle. I also fixed the down pipe exhaust leak (noise is still the same). Next I am going to do a compressions test and then check timing. Again thank you all for your help

I bought a car stethoscope to do that. Hoping to have time this weekend to troubleshoot.

The car did not always make this sound. My first step is to find out where the smoke is coming from. In case you missed it here is what I did to the engine while it was out of the car Engine Work done: new fuel injectors oil pan gasket lashed valves replaced EGR new oil filter rear main seal pilot bushing

thank you for the guidance siteunseen. I did something similar. I have not checked them hot though. will do that next

Bunch of questions to answer: Zed: The procedure I was using was to turn the engine until the lobe was pointing up, Adjust clearance. Turn engine again and adjust the next one. I then re-did the same procedure the other day and the engine sounded better than the first time I ran it. Clicking was still there ETI4K: I am also curious as to why there is so much smoke and where it is coming from. I did not remove the intake or exhaust manifolds when the engine was out. I had 3 studs break where the exhaust manifold connects to the down pipe. I thought I repaired them correctly. I will re-do a compression test and see if the numbers are different from before I pulled the engine Patcon: I am getting a mechanical oil pressure gauge today to confirm pressure. I put 4 1/2 quarts of this oil in - Lucas Oil LUC10679 10679 10W-30 Petroleum Oil