gotham22

I just sent over pics and dimensions to a machine shop. Do you think brass is the best metal to use? For reference here are measurements.

@Captain Obvious Ha! Nubbin business! I will message you directly. I am also talking to a machine shop today to see what they can do

Wondering if I try and find a machine shop

what about using some epoxy on the bad one to reform the top? Do you think that could work?

i have access to a 3d printer. Do you think that might work?

OD 3.8mm H 5.1mm

@SteveJ I have digital calipers

I was having issues with my headlights where they would only turn on if I played with the knob and moved it back and forth in small increments. I took apart the switch and cleaned up the corrosion. One of my springs with the plastic tips that push the rockers looks melted or worn. I am assuming this is no longer a part I can get. Do I need the plastic piece on top of the spring or can I use the spring without it? Is there anything I can swap the plastic piece with that could work as a fix?

Sounds like I have more fun ahead of me! I think I need start with the headlight switch. It is a little flaky. I have to turn it using slight adjustments to get the headlights to turn on.

Should the hazard light turn on when the headlights go on? I tested my bulb and it is good. I haven't seen it turn on though

ok, I got it this time. Finally! I started my troubleshooting over from scratch. 1)Jumped G and GY at C7 again for a sanity check to make sure the turn signals worked. They did. 2) Took apart the hazard switch and cleaned up all the connections. Tested it with a multimeter and found no issues. 3) Connected G and GY from c7 directly to my switch. This worked Problem was somewhere with the wires that connects C7 to my switch. Ohms test was fine on all the wires. Although I did not see any corrosion, I once again cleaned the male and female connections. Then I sprayed it with deoxit. Reconnected everything and now I have both hazards and turn signals working! Damn this was not an easy one with two separate issues. Thanks all for the help. Couldn't have done it without your help

I pulled the switch apart and everything looks clean. Not sure what the issue could be with it. Taking another look now

Spoke to soon. Hazards work, turn signals do not when wires are not jumped at c7. I pulled the hazard switch apart to see what is wrong. Connectors look fine, no corrosion. I ran continuity tests on the switch side wires to the board and all checked out. On the board I can jump the hazards and get them to work but I can not jump the turn signals. With the ignition in the on position the dash side connector green wires both have power. Where can I look next?

I think I got it. Originally I stated I bypassed the hazard switch by jumping GY - G in C7. Turn signals did not work. Then I connected c7 back and put in the new relay and it still didn't work. Since I am positive this relay is good I tried jumping the wires in C7 again. Now it works!! Seems like I have a bad hazard switch and a bad flasher relay. You guys are awesome! Thanks for the advice. This was my last fix. After 3.5 years I can get it back on the road!!

Well the new flasher didnt work. Where do I go from here?

BTW - Captain obvious. Read your post from April 28, 2016 which is how I knew to jump c7. Thank you!

Finished your test and looks like you guys were right. Going to buy the relay you suggested and see if that fixes it 12v to the W wire with turn signal up 0v white wire GY wire 12v

Thanks. Going to do your test now and will get back to you

Thanks for the info guys. - I do not have any corrosion that I can see on the connections. -Steve J - The white wire on the dash harness side connects to the green wire (where I took the reading) on the switch side. Those two are the same right? So my voltage test was accurate? dash side = W GB GR switch side = G WR WB Not sure if this is a dumb question. Is the hazard relay the same because those work? Could I pull that temporarily and use it for the turn signals? Or is there a way to test the flasher on the bench?

I have a 1978 280z that I am so close to getting back on the road after 4 years. I can't get the turn signals to work and I am at a standstill. After searching forums the obvious thing was to check the hazard switch (hazards work). I jumped the green/yellow to the green at C7 to rule out the hazard switch. With the wires jumped I see 12v at the turn signal. Removing the jumper and keeping the hazard switch in-line I see 12v as well. As you can see in the picture, the connector to the turn signal has the following wires G WR WB GB RY RW With the turn signal in the middle position I have 12v at the G wire and the GB wire. When I move the turn signal to the up or down position the G wire drops to 0v and GB stays at 12v. When I return it to the middle position the G wire has 12v again. I also looked at the flasher unit under the drivers dash. I have 12v on the green wire going in to it. 0v on the white wire. At this point I am not sure what to do next. Any ideas?

Getting so close to getting the car back on the road after 3 years! So excited!

guys, thanks for the help. Drilled it and used jb weld expoxy. Worked great

Thanks captain obvious. Kickstand, my bad for not saying it is a 78 280z

So these should not connect to each other? The "t" should feed them both

thanks for the quick response. And I guess "good" one is a relative term! ha!