gotham22

Thats what I was thinking as well. I am being realistic. I love this car but when you start to pay that much then you just want a full restoration which I can not afford! Ugggh. Hardest decision I have had to make. if I didn't get it fixed what do you think the best course of action is? Sell it as is? Sell it for parts?

Thanks grannyknot. Sounds pretty bad and expensive. Do you think it is worth saving? I love the car but I don’t want to play 10+ grand to fix it.

I started working on the front suspension of my car and found some rot that looks structural. I have never really worked on cars so I was wondering if some of you might chime in and tell me how bad it really is and can it be fixed\. From what I can tell the rust is isolated to the drivers side front. The passenger side and trunk only have minor surface rust but seem to be in good shape. Also the floor boards seem to be in good shape on both sides. I do not have the skills to do this myself and I am very nervous bringing it to someone as I want it done right and not half arse. Take a look at the pics and let me know what you think. By the way, does anyone know of a good body shop on Long Island?

Guys, wanted to thank you for all your help. I was able to get a cold chisel into the slit and use a pickle fork to separate the two. Didn't have to use much force at all which was surprising

Thanks for all the advice. I wont be able to jump on this until the weekend unfortunately. I do have room to get it apart if it will come apart. Will update all with my progress.

Thanks will try and let you know. I would like to remove the rack completely to inspect and clean up. Probably don't have to remove the whole thing to replace the bushings though as you said.

Hello all, Wondering if someone can give me some advice. I am changing the complete set of front bushings. I have the sway bar out and my next task was the steering rack. I cant seem to get the lower steering joint separated from the pinion. I have blasted it with penetrating fluid for two days and have tried heat. I dont have any leverage to separate them and I dont have enough room for a hammer. Anyone have the same issue? Any ideas. As you can see from the images I removed the loosening nut.

Anyone know where I can find a set of rubber bushings for a 1978 280z? I see complete sets for poly ones but would prefer rubber. Even if I cant find a set I can purchase them individually I just dont know from where. thanks for the help!

I found a nos antenna on eBay. Thanks all for the responses. Much appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Love this thread. You are doing some really nice work. Can’t wait to see it when t is finished. Here is some inspiration.... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Where did you get one? Still looking for red one Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Where did you get one? Still looking for red one Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Looking for a power antenna for my 280. Anyone have one or know where I can buy one? Thanks for the help Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Did you guys say you know where to find a red one? Will it fit a 78 280z Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Sweet! How much do you want for it?

Hi all, I have a 280z and I am changing the steering wheel. I have a 240z wheel but no horn pad. If anyone has one let me know please. Can't wait to get it on! thanks

Ok so another rookie mistake! Helps to solder the left speaker wire to the correct spot on the power board. It looks like it is working now. Aux input is now functional too. I got a switch to direct the power to the radio or the aux input. Bought a wire which is 5 pin to 3.5mm and that is connected to a wireless bluetooth adapter. I can connect my iPhone via bluetooth and listen via the aux in. Its great a 38 year old bluetooth radio! Tested it out and it works great on the bench. Need to wire it correctly now and install in the car. Again, thanks for all the help everyone!

Fun is one word! The good thing is I know a lot about radio repair now! HA! Broke many connections that I had to solder back and I burnt a trace on the board which I needed to jump to fix. Last issue I am tracking down is why I am only getting a signal on one speaker. I tested the balance and I turned it both ways. Only get one speaker outputting though. I also made sure that the button with the "s" was set properly, think that switches between stereo and mono. I just got my hands on an oscilloscope to track the signal down. Once all that is figured out I am going back to the original project I wanted to do which was to add a switch to change power between the radio and aux input. Happy times are near!

It looks like the screws were not full in and making contact with the case. When they are not making contact the audio amps (ha1339) are being overdriven with voltage. Once the do make contact all the pins on the chip return to their voltages as stated in the schematic. Looks like it is back in business!!! Changed a couple of diodes and the qc601 transistor as well. On a personal note, thank you dave wm. I can't thank you enough for all of the responses and help you have given. You are what these forums are all about. Thank you Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I think I may have figured this out. Appears to be a grounding issue. When properly grounded the voltage on the ic is close to the schematic. When not grounded properly it appears the ic is being over driven. More to come Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Will get that to you this week. Thank you for your help.

Speaker balance doesn't seem to matter happens on both speakers. In looking at the two ha1339 ic's I am getting power to them but some of the pins are showing a higher voltage then the schematic says. Could these be blown? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

For the speaker wires I am using the 3 pins on the left. Vertical is ground and top and bottom correspond to left and right. I have the same issue using the car speakers that I do on the bench Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

If you are looking at the back of the radio at he 6 pins ( 3 on top and 3 on the bottom) power goes to the top right pin and ground goes to the bottom left. I reversed these and then couldnt understand why the radio wouldn't turn on. The cap cap I took out was on the power unit pcb. C007 on the schematic. Do you think I have a bad cap connected to the volume pods?

Happy new year!!! Thanks all for the help. to post an update. I am a total newbie and made a lot of mistakes but I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Here is how the mess happened, I was trying to find the hot wire going into the radio because I wanted to add a switch so I could go between the radio and the aux. Idiot that I am I didn't think and grounded the multi-meter to a painted surface. So it appeared no wire was hot, and then that's where it snowballed. I pulled the wires out of the plastic connector on the harness figuring I wasn't get a good connection for a reading. Before I did I marked them on a piece of paper. Now in hindsight marking top and bottom would have been useful and not using the letter b for blue and black would have been wise. Long story short whole radio opened up, resodering, breaking pieces and replacing them and finally figuring out the correct wire configuration. Now The radio tunes on both fm and am. But....there is an issue. I can only hear the radio at a very low volume ( volume control turned almost to 0). As soon as I raise the volume I hear a clicking noise. Rasing the volume control doesn't make the audio louder either it just starts this clicking noise. I know this is vague so I am uploading two videos. One you can hear the clicking and the other you can hear the audio. Does anyone know what I should do next? I don't know what would cause this.