gotham22

Adjusting #11 worked!! Everything is connected now. What a pain to try and get to it.

Two things: 1) Is there a place to get a replacement mechanism? I can only find the cable. And when you buy a brake kit it doesnt include the parking brake hardware. 2)I used to have to pull the hand brake almost all the way up to the ceiling to get it to hold, so I replaced the cable. Now I can’t get both parking brake cables connected at the same time — it’s always one side or the other. If I force it to connect, the tension is so high that the brake stays engaged constantly. I must be missing something, because no matter what I try, I can’t close the gap enough to attach both sides. I figured the new cable might just need to stretch a little, so I tried pulling on it, but nothing gives me the clearance I need to make it work. Any ideas what I’m doing wrong?

Thanks for the info. The drivers side does not have that plastic piece. Assuming it broke off at some point in time. Is that going to be an issue. The passenger side seems intact.

I recently replaced my rear drum brake hardware but forgot to take a picture before disassembling everything. Can someone confirm if this is how the parking brake lever is supposed to be installed? I’m also not entirely sure how the lever functions in the mechanism. It looks like it might not be mounted correctly — should the lever sit on the right side of the cog wheel? When I place it there, it seems to keep slipping off toward the left side. Any clarification or reference photo would really help. This is the drivers side of the car

Haven’t solved it yet. Having work done on the house and can’t get my car out of the garage. Hoping in a few weeks I can look at it again

TPS passed the multimeter test. Next testing the AFM.

I am going to check the afm and tps next just to rule those out.

Could it still be a pressure issue when there is a load on the engine?

I don’t think there is a correlation just letting everyone know I checked the transmission and then I moved on to the fuel pressure. I am just confused that I can not recreate the issue when not driving

I connected a fuel pressure tester between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. At idle, the pressure reads 32 psi. When I manually move the throttle, it increases to about 38 psi. However, I’m unable to replicate the issue while the car is parked — I can’t drive it out of the garage right now to test it under load. Given that I can’t reproduce the issue when not driving could this point to something other than fuel pressure. My first thought before all of this was that it was a transmission issue. But I took it to a transmission guy who said everything was fine.

I purchased this a few days ago. I'll start there BETOOLL 0-140PSI Fuel Injector Injection Pump Pressure Tester Gauge Kit Car Tools (Master)

Forgive me if this is an obvious question but how could I see it when driving. I want to see what happens when I press the gas quickly.

Not sure if anyone is going to see this as it is so old. I finally got around to working on the car again. I just bought a fuel pressure tester. Where do I connect it? Is it the cold start valve?

Good info thanks. Going to get a gauge and report back to the thread