gotham22

Haven’t solved it yet. Having work done on the house and can’t get my car out of the garage. Hoping in a few weeks I can look at it again

TPS passed the multimeter test. Next testing the AFM.

I am going to check the afm and tps next just to rule those out.

Could it still be a pressure issue when there is a load on the engine?

I don’t think there is a correlation just letting everyone know I checked the transmission and then I moved on to the fuel pressure. I am just confused that I can not recreate the issue when not driving

I connected a fuel pressure tester between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. At idle, the pressure reads 32 psi. When I manually move the throttle, it increases to about 38 psi. However, I’m unable to replicate the issue while the car is parked — I can’t drive it out of the garage right now to test it under load. Given that I can’t reproduce the issue when not driving could this point to something other than fuel pressure. My first thought before all of this was that it was a transmission issue. But I took it to a transmission guy who said everything was fine.

I purchased this a few days ago. I'll start there BETOOLL 0-140PSI Fuel Injector Injection Pump Pressure Tester Gauge Kit Car Tools (Master)

Forgive me if this is an obvious question but how could I see it when driving. I want to see what happens when I press the gas quickly.

Not sure if anyone is going to see this as it is so old. I finally got around to working on the car again. I just bought a fuel pressure tester. Where do I connect it? Is it the cold start valve?

Good info thanks. Going to get a gauge and report back to the thread

Thanks. It is stock fuel injection. I will try the suggestions

I own a 1978 280Z that runs well when I press the gas pedal smoothly. However, if I try to accelerate quickly or shift faster while pressing the pedal aggressively, it feels like the fuel flow cuts off. The RPMs remain steady, but the car loses power. If I ease off the pedal, the issue resolves. The car runs fine as long as I’m not too abrupt with the accelerator—it only happens when I press it quickly. Any ideas as to what is going on?

Its the nubbin that makes contact when you use the hi/lo switch.

I was sanding the contact of the high beam switch today and I am such an arse. I dropped the metal piece that goes in the white clicker part. I am so mad, I cant find it in the garage. Anyone know if it is even possible to get one of these? Or does anyone have one? I am so screwed. A replacement switch is like $700.

I found the issue. It was the gauge. When I tried the new gauge the first time it must have not been plugged in fully. Thank you guys for the help. I really appreciate you helping a newbie.