Palmettobug

Anyone know where I can find a flexplate for a 1973 240z auto transmission? I tried "The ZCarSource" and the owner says the part is unavailable from the maker. I have one that grinds the starter every time I try to crank it.

Original orange on top / Ford TerraCotta on bottom

Year or so ago I was passing through Collinsville on Hwy 169. Around 15600 block before you cross into Washington County there's Lambert's Auto Salvage. (866)578-8802. They did have a 280Z sitting in the field. I tried to buy it outright but they were only interested in parting it out.

Thanks for the comments. I knew I should have paid more attention when my dad tried to teach me all this stuff years ago. Anyway, looks like the best idea would be to get the new set of tires first. Original owner did state there were flat spots on the tires. I'm thinking 205/70's on the stock 14" rims, if I can find them. Tuning the carbs helped tremendously. I was able to hit 110mph without too much protest for the car. Which is about the time I noticed the brakes need work too. I shall probably stay with the stock rear drum brakes, as I don't have any real intentions of modifying the engine. But I like the stuff I'm reading on upgrading the front brakes to the Toyota 4x4 calipers with the stock rotors. The distributor upgrade should be able to wait until after I make sure the suspension will hold up and the car stop. I've got five years to get it right before I pass the car to my daughter.

So I took a propane torch and heated up the starter flange. The stuck bolt came out with no further problems. Got the new starter on and the car starts right up. I tuned the carbs according to what I learned on here and a video on YouTube. I used the 3in1 oil for my dampering oil. Seems like the idle responded better to it than it did transmition fluid. I also see where most people change over to electronic ignition. Since my 240z is an automatic, what would be best? I can't seem to find what to do if you have a dual point distributor.

OK, got a chance to play under the hood this weekend. I was able to do a compression test and I have all six cylinders running at 150. I noticed in one of the forums that all six should be at 170 or higher. Is 150 that bad? I also noticed that I am now in need of a new starter. Tried to get the old one out and found the bottom bolt is frozen. I tried penetrating oil, a breaker bar, and an impact wrench. It isn't moving. Any ideas how to get this thing out?

The ones back home in South Carolina also fly on occasion. . TY!

Ok, what does it mean when you have blue smoke coming from the tail pipe. Happens on startup and again when you rev the engine.

Sorry,yes; the car sat in hibernation for at least a year. I don't see any rust in the engine compartment near the battery or the wheel wells. Dog legs I think you guys call them. Thank you the suggestions on where to look for leaks, I shall try this weekend. I do know the original owner said that there were flat spots on the tires from sitting, so I'll start my investment there. Glad to be here and looking forward to more of your suggestions.

Hello! Just bought a 1973 240z. The original owner took off the SMOG compliant flat-top carbs and replaced them with a set of '72 dome SU carbs. Other than the top part of the car being the original orange, he used Ford Terracotta as a bottom-half accent color, the car appears to be stock. I have noticed the gas fumes flowing in the cabin when the windows are rolled down. Any advice on how to fix that? I think I may need to replace some suspension parts as the car shutters when going above 80mph. Not looking to heavily modify with a bigger engine, but any advice on best modifications for squeezing out more horsepower for a daily driver/ cruising on the weekends would be most helpful. E88 head orange stock air intake original exhaust ( i can't see a header attachment) 195/70/14 tires