sblake01

Welcome, Lorena. I'm assuming from your other posts that 'Lorea' is a typo. I'm always willing to take a shot at an EFI question. With two of these cars I've solved just about everything they can throw at you.

Just a reminder that registration is now open.

Very nice.

You might also try here: http://www.toointenserestoration.0catch.com/

What part of California are you in?

Move over fellow pimpsters! Well, maybe I can be an honorary member, this picture is about 40 years old!

Mckrack? Is that you?:eek:

I bought one from that seller last year for my 810 but it was junk in my opinion. I ended up finding a OEM antenna and throwing that one away. It's a cheap, generic fully automatic antenna and you need a semi auto if you wan't to keep it like the stock setup.

This is their website. You'll have to contact them about a 240Z system since it's a unviersal/custom type system http://www.vintageair.com/index.asp

I have dropped many different engines and transmissions into my 320 pickup in the past icluding a highly built 400 SBC. Even though the truck had two engines and transmissions at the time, it didn't run any better.

No, I wish I did. I'm always on the lookout for 'Ontario Datsun' frames, which is where my 78 came from and 'Culver City Datsun' frames, which is where my 810 came from.

Well, there's the Vintage Air system. They're a bit pricey but they are the best system I've ever experienced. They are designed to use R134A. They cool the car down fast like a modern OEM system. The drawback for you would be that they use their own controls which would be a problem if originality or at least the appearance of originality is a concern. The main drawback of ARA system in the earler cars, as mentioned before, is that it sucks the cold air from the evaporator rather than blowing the cold air through it. The factory systems and the later ARA type systems like the one in my 78 as well as the Vintage Air system have the evaporator mounted in the center, behind the control panel rather than in the passenger footwell.

Pomona Valley Datsun! That's the dealership I purchased #00488 from almost 38 years ago!

Well, the wussup thing is kind of out of date. Bud dropped that fairly soon after they introduced it. I really didn't see the point. But, just for you Bill.... YO!

Depends on how bad it's leaking. How's your compression? A bad temp sensor or throttle position switch or bad connection at either can also cause black smoke and loss of power on acceleration since they both affect the fuel mixture.

New name-McThreadstopper.

Like these? The on on the left is the on you described. The one on the right allows you to see the signal while the car is cranking or runing by placing the bottom connector on the injector and the injector harness connector on the top. I made these up about ten years ago and they've both been very useful.

I thought I'd post this again since it didn't parse properly in the earlier post. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf The would still 'click' if they were okay since that's an electronic function regardless of fuel pressure but fuel pressure may be another issue once this one is solved.

Actually, it's ECU which stands for electronic control unit. Some people call it the computer or the brain. It's not nealy that sophisticated. It's basically just a junction box that directs the signals for the EFI (electronic fuel injection) system.

I read a TSB (technical service bulletin) on that a few years ago at my buddy's shop. The BPT (Backpressure transducer IIRC) valve controls the amount of vacuum that goes to the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve. All part of the smog control system. Apparently, there was some problem with the valve allowing too much vacuum which caused the car to emit too much nitrogen oxide from the exhaust which not only made the cars have difficulty passing the emissions test but also caused driveability problems. That sticker show that the valve was replaced with the upgraded one.

From that description it could just be wax that was missed. I use a xtra soft toothbrush to get the wax out of the nooks and crannies. Over time if it's left there it gets kind of clay-like.

Or, at least they need the fusible link covers. Either the number wore off or the PO rubbed it off. From the little I can see in the pictures, it might have been the same color as mine (code 510 blue). Lift your rear shelf and look at the color in the spare tire well or inside any of the panels. Door, rear compartment, etc. Most people don't have those areas painted when the have a repaint done.

They did show that with enough high explosives you could just about vaporize a full sized semi. :classic:

I recently saw an episode of Mythbusters where they tested acetone in gas and their results show that it actually decreased gas mileage.

Factory alloys on the Z w/2256014 Yokohama A-509's: And the 810 w/2056014 Capitol N5000's: Even on the old truck 96-97 Nissan Hardbody alloys w/1956014 Kumho 732's: