sblake01

You'd have to be more specific. One what? A water temperature switch or ???? For what year car? Fuel injected (280Z-ZX) or carbed (240-260Z)? Many things were discussed in this 6 years dead thread.

That would make it a late production or '74.5' model. Here's a quote from a Nissan publication entitled "Outline Specifications-75 Models". '

Click on the link and follow the morphing Z (twice): http://www.v8-240z.com/

Actually, I used the air impact on the pulley remover after removing the nut.

I've only done a couple of them in my lifetime. You need a puller and from what I recall, it would be so much easire to do it on a workbench rather than on the car.

I like them. I had a 5 panel in my Z and in my 810 and a 4 panel in my 320. I was so used to having them in my cars that it seems strange to drive without them as niether of my present vehicles has one nor does my wifes car.

No, they're not. Mario and Elvan closed the shop a couple of years ago.

You can use one for an early 80s BMW. Had one on my 78 280Z for about 10 years and one on my 79 810 for 5 years. It's a direct replacement.

We started a thread about those in 2006: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23291

Or they could be the 'copies' that MSA sells. It would be hard to tell them apart.

I doubt that the ones that MSA sells are true Vitaloni Californian mirrors since the true Vitaloni mirrors are something like $80-85 each while the MSA version are $119.95 per pair. (hence the term Californian Style)

AAR=auxiliary air regulator, AAV=auxiliary air valve, AAR valve I guess is some kind of combinitation of the terms. All would actually be correct. Bosch calls it an AAV. They invented it. All that being said, we know what's being discussed here. I doesn't do the same thing as holding the throttle open a little bit. It has nothing to do with burning off the extra fuel from the cold start valve as that is basically a one shot deal. It adds extra air to go with the extra fuel provided by the temperature sensor during the warm up period. The amount that the flap is open determines the speed, slowing as it electronically closes as the coil in it heats up. You are right about plugging the hoses though. The reason I didn't think of that is because I never removed mine, nor would I have. Primitive, yes. But the more of the system you remove, the more you have to concern yourself with compensating for the fact that those components are no longer part of the system. My opinion is still buy an new air regulator (or whatver you choose to call it).

Not true at all, at least not with that many 'reallys', but my response might have also been a bit caffinated....

Just curious, as is your response. Ease up and welcome.

How is it that you joined 1/17 and you're showing 62 posts in your user info, three days later?

That's entirely possible as mine were a 78(280Z) and a 79(810) and both were set up as I described. Also they were both California cars if that makes difference.

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If I were you, I wouldn't bypass the heat block. The reason being that the housing under the AAR is the heater housing for the thermal vacuum valve. The termal vacuum valve allows the egr system to work while the engine is at operating temp. It really doesn't have anything to do with the operation of the AAR. Simplest (and best) thing to do right now is remove the bad AAR and connect the hoses together that run through it. That way, all you lose is the fast idle during warm up and when you find a new AAR, which would be my suggestion, all you'll have to do is put it on and plug it back in.

Somewhere the thread you're starting up here already exists. I just can't find it right now but I know this was done at least three or four years ago, pictures and all.

^^Word.

No oxygen sensor on a 77.....inadvertantly switching the thermotime switch and temp sensor connectors would cause that problem.

Tell us more about the engine. Are you saying it's a stroker? L28D crankshaft, etc.?

Go to http://www.zhome.com/ and scroll to the 'Z Onwership: Index page. Under that there's a 'Buying A Z Car-tips:' section which will answer most of your questions about what to watch for.

I guess that would work out to about 9 Km/L. My 280Z actually averaged a bit better than that at 24 mpg or a little over 10 Km/L. I'm sure you're already aware of the rust issues.

mayitin, where did you get "V8" from? Anyway, the following is very elementary research that you could have easily done yourself. According to the factory service manual, a stock 240Z fuel pump puts out 3.41 to 4.27 psi. According to a file on the Holley website, a 390 requires 5-7.5 psi. You'll need a fuel pump with more output than the stock one.