sblake01

Your G37 has 'climate control' of some form if I'm correct. The speed of the air only helps to a point. Size of and number of orifices is also important. I'm an HVAC and MVAC tech and have done a lot of research on this. The G37 type system is far more efficient not only flows more air through larger openings/ducts etc. but creates more cold within the system itself. Larger hoses, piping, more coils in both the evaporator and condenser, etc. I've not had much luck modifying the old Yorx type systems to do much more than make the car 'tolerable' as you say. P.S.: I'll bet if you ran the vent temp test on the G37 at the point where the compressor cycles the reading would be similar to the readings I attached.

Yes. I've done a couple of them using a better condenser and a modern compressor, maybe even a condenser fan but that wouldn't appear 'stock'. You can get the colder but they'll never work as well as a system with a centrally mounted evaporator. Steve mentions that he gets mid 40s at the vent. That's okay but you really need to get colder readings than that to be comfortable in the hotter weather. Like readings below freezing that cause the compressor to cycle. Note the readings I used to get when I had my old 810 and my 78 280Z. The overall performance of those two old systems rival any modern system: P.S. I tried to sell a couple of those old Yorx 240Z type systems that were left here after doing a couple of conversions. Ended up throwing them away......

An old musician like myself would know what a fetzer valve really is. About the only thing a wet swab might do is create a little extra distortion. Unless you're going with Irwin M. Fletcher's misuse of the term.....

Pretty lame.

Mike....I like it!

but:

Oh, I have a very extinsive collection of animated gifs.

That is true if the internals are different. Generally, when I had them done I buy a used lock but the same type that was on the car. The locksmith I used (and still use) would essentially rebuild the lock while making it match the existing key.

Welcome. If you search, you'll find that that's been discussed here more than a few times.....

A good locksmith can match that new lock to your exixting key. I've had that done several times with Datsun locks over the years.

I guess he meant in the rest of the world that speaks English. Even so, the statement still wouldn't be true.

One really doesn't have to reach outside of the the U.S. to find that seperation.......

I don't think there's a debate on either car. The same reasoning would hold true for the ZZZap. There were even ads from Nissan that showed the car w/o the SAP and still called it ZZZap. The picture on the Midway arcade game shows a ZZZap w/o the SAP and yet the name of the game is ZZZap. I'm sure that Midway had to get some type of permission from Nissan to do that. We've been over it all before. It's only a debate if you want it to be: http://zhome.com/zcarfilesJPEG/ZZZapAd.jpg http://jdm-car-parts.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/29165001.jpg

Twist harder:

Yes. They could be ordered without the SAP. It would still be a Black Pearl Edition.

I drill a hole in them and use a Craftsman 'Screw out' tool.

Carl will disagree with you on that one. From a discussion about a year ago:

Those are for the 'key in' buzzer.

Not true. Hubcaps were standard. That was an option wheel. Had them on my 78.

I wasn't going in to all of that. Remember, the OP was talking about acceleration.

The GTR can't touch the Z06. The Nissan is nearly 700 lbs heavier and has 30 to 40 less hp (depending where you read) and about 40 ft lbs less peak torque. The Z06 will hit nearly 200 mph. That being said, if I had to make the choice between the two, I'd probably choose the Nissan.

We talked about that a coupe years ago. It's a NVH damper (Noise-vibration-harshness). Here's the TSB:

Thanks, here it is: http://www.sendspace.com/file/kcm8l8

I do have it. It's a 5+mb pdf. According to the site we can upload pdf's up to 10 mb but it's not letting me do it.