sblake01

Same place in a 77 as a 76. That's a little better description of it's location than I posted, however.

The first location you mention is flat wrong. The 'other possible location' would only be accurate on a 78. On a 75-77, the relay is located at under the dash on the drivers side above the steering column. It's a wide relay. Two plugs plug into it. Half of it is the main EFI relay and the other half of it is the fuel pump relay. See page EF-14 of the 1977 service manual if you don't have one, here's a link.http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/77_datsun_280z.zip Test that relay as per the testing procedure in the FSM, pages EF-55 through EF-57. I've seen many a person replace it only to find out that it wasn't the problem.

I would really doubt the you have the original voltage regulator since it would likely have been replaced in the last 40 years. I say that becuse somewhere along the way, in the part stores, the mechanical adjustable ones were replaced by solid state, non adjustable ones. Moot point since your info points to a bad VR anyway.

That's actually an old test that was common back when cars had generators instead of alternators. Even so, your dad has it wrong. It's the negative cable you remove, not the positive. The negative cable is always the first removed whenever you disconnect a battery for any reason. That being said, this should never be done on a car with an alternator while the car is running for the above mentioned reasons and a few more. There are proper tests for an alternator.

Sam, you must be bored!

You need a 78 manual. There are enough changes bettween 77 and 78 to where you can't use the manual from one on the other. 78 had no fuel pump contacts in the air flow meter, 78 had an internally regulated alternator, different relays, etc. So all of you testing would be different. Here's a link to a 78 FSM: http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/1978%20280z%20FSM.zip

These?: I remember that someone did a set of those in Australia and a couple years back one of the Z Therapy guys did a set, maybe Steve Epperly. I reacall seeing them at the Solvang Roadster Show in 2008.

From HybridZ:

I recall many a heated discussion in the past on this site about vapor lock on EFI cars. The only way you could actually show vapor lock type symptoms would be if you had low fuel pressure for whatever reason. The handful of times I've helped out someone with a 280Z or ZX complaining of vapor lock it always turned out to be something else. I live in Southern California and it gets pretty hot in the summer. Like I said, I've only seen the symptoms a handful of times so, based on my experience, its not what I'd call a "fairly common problem". The EFI system on these cars is fairly simple. Compare it to modern day systems. Overthinking it is often the fairly common problem.

Don't know if you've solve this yet but I found an old post that might be of some help: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=274539&postcount=9

I already have those. Those are all available on the internet. If it doesn't include a 1970 and 1971 FSM I guess I'm still searching.

It has reproduction of each of the Factory Service Manuals? 1970-1971-1972-1973? If that is so, I stand corrected and will order one because that will complete my collection.

The book "How to Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine" by Tom Monroe is a good one as is the L20A, L24 factory service manual that I've linked here: http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM%20L20aL24engine.pdf

The OP's Z is a 71..........

Xenon doesn't have the 70 or 71 FSM or the 71,72,74 or 75 owners manuals at the present time however.

I just can't see it being a 'Factory Workshop Manual' if it covers multiple years. They also sell one for 75-83 280z/zx. More likely a Haynes/Chilton type thing. Not worth $14.95 to me if that's the case.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx........

What are it's temperature handling capabilities? HVAC ducting doesn't reach the temperatures that are generated by an exhaust manifold.

Don't know what's worse; the Datsun backing into it or the BMW going into the corn field. Maybe the little hatchback that hit it head on........

I think you're missing the point.......

Dude, the thread is two years old and the ad no longer exists on the site it was posted. I don't think anyone here would really be able to answer your question. No one really seemed to care about them (except Victor and he doesn't post here anymore). You will likely have to do your own research if you want to find these.

This is a link to a zipped pdf of the 1979 280ZX Factory Service Manual. What you're looking for is on page ET-10. http://www.xenons130.com/files/1979%20280zx%20FSM.zip

The ones used on the 280Z are different from the ones used on the ZX, 810, et al. I've owned all three. The ones on the Z are taller and thinner, joined together by a common plug and in a metal bracket while the others are shorter and larger in diameter and screw into the top of the vacuum tank. You can pretty much only use the ones for a Z on a Z. They're not interchangable without a fair bit of fabrication.......

I also connect my vacuum gun to them when testing. They should hold vacuum when closed and allow vacuum to pass through when under power. For testing purposes I carry a 9 volt battery with me. For switches, solenoids, etc. that will provide more than enough power plus I don't have to look for the junkyard's test battery.