sblake01

The guy that posted this hasn't been back since the day he posted it.......

as well as several other places.......

Here's an article from Atlantic Z Car Club that you might find helpful. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

There's an inspection panel in the hatch area above the tank where the sending unit is.

I disagree. I noticed the difference. When I bought my 78 it had the stock 5 speed in it. I later put a 84 Maxima 5 speed in it; same as an 83 ZX 5 speed. The highway mileage was slightly better but the car didn't pull as strongly in 5th. Later, I did pretty much the same conversion with my 79 810 with the same results.

They make LED bulbs that will fit in place of the bulb that's in the map light. Had one in my 78. If I'm not mistaken, all the OP wants to know is the number of the bulb that's in the map light. If that's the case, its a 158.

Never mind..........................

Not a 280Z heater control valve. They've been NLA for a couple of years now......

Not one of my favorite things to do. It's a pita but it is do-able. If the core doesn't leak and you have flow through it then it wouldn't be the cause of you not getting heat. Could be a problem with the heater control valve. Easier to work on but harder to find a replacement.

There's this dream garage commercial that's also on the Z Car Micrifiche CD.

Block letters about 1" tall? Sounds like a 510 badge rather than a 240Z badge which has more of a handwriting/script type look. Does it have a slight slant to the right?

I used to get mine at ACE Hardware when I worked there.

That would be true except they still sell new ones that look pretty much like that one at most AC shops.

Wow! I wonder why there's such an incredible price difference between the California and the Federal emissions version.

Not factory, it was dealer installed/aftermarket. Factory air didn't come into play until the 260Z. The parts are of very little value since the systems were pretty inefficient.

I've never owned any Datsun (and I've owned several!) that 'required' pressure bleeding. Normal bleeding will work if done properly and all components involved are is proper working order.

A 77 should still have an external voltage regulator unless someone has converted it to an internal regulator. Shouldn't run without one without some 'creative' wiring. The voltage regulator should be located on the passenger side fenderwell.

The OP's car is fuel injected. Yours, according to your profile, isn't. I'm sure you're not having the 'same' problem in that your car is shutting off, but the reason would not be the same.

Isn't that what Bruce described in his post? .

I guess you could adjust the free play at the slave if the slave is adjustable. The later cars don't have a provision to adjust it there so you must be working on the 71. I always adjusted the free play at the push rod head/lock nut behind the clutch pedal. And I use a power bleeder which makes clutch bleeding as well as brake bleeding so much easier.

In the factory service manual, In the EC (Emission Control System) section, pages EC-5 through EC-9, they do a better job of explaining the description, operation, inspection, removal, etc. of the BCCD than I ever could. If you don't one, here's a link: 1977 Factory Service Manual

An oxygen sensor? No, they didn't show up until later on the 280ZXs.

Thanks Arne. I just know what I know based on the ownership of the two Datsuns I had with EFI, the 78 280Z and the 79 810, and the problems I faced and solved with them. I forgot to add that if it's a California car it would be equipped with a altitide switch. A malfunctioning altitude switch could also cause problems with the idle.

Fast idle that occasionally drops down to normal is usually either a problem in the BCDD system or a bad air regulator.

I was born in Portland but haven't lived there in years.