sblake01

He already did. (I'm on that site also.)

That's the anti stall dashpot. Also if you have a California car, the altutude switch could also cause what you describe.

Let's see: you come on a site, likely set the record for resurrecting the oldest thread ever, also hyjacking the thread on top ot that, offer to sell us something we can get for free, and the cop an attitude when that's all pointed out to you? Now, who's acting like an arse?

That car has been discussed of virutally every Z oriented site including Japanese Nostalgic Car and Nico Club.

I had to look up 'slizzard' and I wouldn't have had a clue about a G6 if not for this video and Tony's explainaion. The only G6's I'm familar with are the musical chord or the Pontiac........

It's also nice to have a real paper version of the FSM. The Xenon download is fine for printing out sections etc. and many of them, like the 1978 are actually the same copy that Courtesy Parts puts on a CD. Free is better than 'wasn't too expensive' IMO. And to the guy that awakened this 7 year dead thread: those cd's are available for much less than the $75 you claim to have paid for them (if that's true, they saw you comming/the often misattributed P.T. Barnum theory!), and even less than the $50 you said you'd sell them for and on top of that, as stated, all of the info on them is available free on the internet.

Might be another three years.........

The gauge goes inline between the outlet of the fuel filter and the fuel rail. If you have the 1977 FSM the test procedure is on page EF-58. I tried to scan it but since my 77 manual is a copy of a copy of a copy (etc.), it doesn't come out too clear.

Factory Service Manual.

IIRC, RC Engineering is in Torrance which is about 75 miles away from me. The shop I linked to, Oside Tiger, is closer to me in Murrieta so I used them whenever I needed fuel injection stuff.

I had two of those transmissions, one in my Z and one in my 810. Actually one was from an 83 ZX and one was from an 84 RWD Maxima, but they both returned to center properly from any position.

He's looking for pintle caps, not connectors. Try here. They show service kits that include the caps but I reacall buying just the caps from them a few years ago so you might try contacting them.

You're trying to be facetous...right?

Nice touch....:stupid:

That's a bit harsh, don't you think? I had to look in your profile to find out what year car you have. It would have been a little easier had you stated that in your post. A word to the wise: you won't get much help around here if you display that type of attitude....just sayin'..........

Is that what that is?

The info you're asking for is in the Air Conditioning section of the FSM. The page I noted in my other post is one of many in that section that shows how the magnet valves should be connected.

Try this link.

Those are magnet valves. They control vacuum for the fast idle control (air conditioning) and the opening/closing of the mode doors under the dash for heating/air conditioning. Like Steve said, look in the FSM for the diagram, page AC-12.

What would such a service cost for 4 years? I would suggest a third option. Since you plan to do a hybrid, sell this car and find another one when you ready in four years. You say it has rust. Storing it for four years won't help that and if you start the project now, you won't likely be able to devote the proper amount of time to it.

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Oh, I'm well aware of all of that. I was just attempting slow his usual jouney off topic. I guess I really didn't help.

You're probably referring to this thread.

You're still talking about static timing @ idle; the comments by Powerglide and myself have to do with initial advance upon acceleration.

Powerglide is correct with what he says. I've done this on a 280Z as well as other vehicles. You're talking about static timing, not advance. Tell me how you're going to read the 24 degrees initial adavance with the stock indicator plate.