sblake01

I didn't say it so I really don't care one way or another but your answer doesn't really do much to help your cause (whatever that is).

Well, one is about recipies and the other is about cooking them...............one of the members said something about smelling a troll.........

I agree w/David. You'll find more useful info here (IMO) and less 'attitude' than those two sites.

So am I but why do that if you really don't have to. If that works for you...fine. I'm not knocking it but I masterd the floor jack w/adapter routine years ago. It doesn't get in the way and you can adjust the trans in any direction while it's on the jack. My hands end up being the only ones I need. I've also used it for auto transes, truck transes and others much heavier than a Datsun 4/5 speed with no issues.

Which would not prevent a properly maintained car from starting and the pressure would stabilize pretty much instantly when the car starts. I agree with jmortensen's last sentence on this one.......

The DGV is a passenger car carb. The Holley 5200 which was used on the 2.3 Ford Pinto engine as well as other vehicles/engines is acutally a licensed copy of the Weber 32/36 DGV.

His join date was 2/10/11, his post was at 2:47pm and his last activity was at 2:47pm. That and the content of his post.....I could be wrong.

Zed Head.....doesn't that post seem a little strange?? Joined yesterday, made that post, generic comment, left immediately, hasn't been back since......

All I'm saying is that I never had cause to wrap the fuel rail. There were no vents on the hood of my 810 or either of my 200SX's nor did any of them have cooling fans on the fuel railsand I never had the 'vapor lock' problem with any of them or my 280Z (though it did have hood vents). I'd agree that it's dependant on fuel system component condition but maybe not so much on ambient temps since I live in Southern California with it's 100+ degree summers. I guess I've got nothing else to say here. I tell of my experiences, which is all I can speak accurately on, and threre are those who want to refute what I say.

I'd say that in the time I've owned that, it has paid for itself.

If you do it right, it won't hurt your trans. If you do it like I did in my younger days...well you were already considering 'diving into a rebuild', right?

You mean when it's runnig? Like match the revs and just do clutchless shifts? I used to do that when I was young and crazy......

I think I might have heard you pass by......Does he have an Audi R8 also?

No reason it would be a bad idea in that it wouldn't hurt anything. I never had those problems with any of the 4 Datsun/Nissan EFI cars I owned but I've always been pretty anal when it comes to keeping everythiing in proper working order on my vehicles. I've always fixed the actual problem rather than doing something to mask or compensate for the symptoms.

I thiink he's been breathing the contents of those bags......I would just use my Gunson Gastester

Hey, you know what they say... See a broad, to get that booty ack? Lay ‘er down and slack ‘em yak ‘em!

I have an adapter that goes on my floor jack that allows you to tilt, turn, angle, a transmission. It makes it so much easier that I've actually done a couple of them by myself

I think I get it! It's like 'jive' from the movie 'Airplane'. Cold got to be! You know? Shiiiiiiit.

Oh, I'm not claimning to be a differential expert either. I just helped them change them out. Each of those cars were pre LS small blocks with mild mods but I don't think any but maybe one of them put out anywhere near what a stock LS1 or LS2 does.

That I'm not sure of but they were R200s. And torque is probably more crucial than HP where these failures are concerned.

Your prerogative to disagree but I'd trust my first hand experience over what I read on HybridZ. I've helped no less than four people change out blown R200s to solid rears in V8 Zs.

Once again, there is no functional need to wrap the fuel rail on the EFI cars but if it makes you feel better then...go ahead.

I recall from your other posts that you intend to put an LS1/LS2 in the car at some point. Bear in mind that those engines can easily spread any of the differentials mentioned in this thread all over the highway........

From what I recall in your other posts, you're having difficulty getting your car to run right as it is now. I really don't think swapping out your engine for an unknown engine with a Holley carb it the answer. About all that will accomplish would be creating a different set of problems to troubleshoot. Who would be doing the engine swap and set up?

He's talking about a z with EFI. There's really no reason to wrap the fuel rails on the EFI cars other than looks.