sblake01

I know, Bill. I don't have the screw for it though.

On my car, which is picture #3, it connects to the fitting on the throttle body, just to the right of the idle adjustment screw, as viewed from the front of the car. It also connects there in picture #1. Picture #2 has it ending at the rubber boot between the AFM and the throttle body.

I'm not sure that I understand the question, but if you are saying that there was no oil cap on the car when you got it and you're wondering if dirt and dust can get into the opening the answer is yes. And the oil will spray on to the hood from that opening. Remove the valve cover and see how things look inside. By all means, get a cap.

My extra inspection light isn't in very good condition. You could probably find a better one. The choke lever is yours if you want it. Looks like everyone else has got you covered on the rest of the stuff.

Don't want much do you? I don't have many 240 parts but I have a choke lever and maybe a underhood light if the later 280 one is the same.

I doubt that the computer would be bad as it isn't really a computer per se. It's an electronic control unit. It doesn't do any computations or or anything like that nor does it have any software programmed into it. It simply patches electronic signals from one place to another. I've never had a problem with one. Just make sure that it's the one that belongs in that car as there are different ones for different models, years, and equipment i.e auto trans or manual trans., and that it's connection is clean. At the point you seem to be at, I would be checking fuel pressure, the fuel pressure regulator itself, cold start vavle and thermotime switch, air temp sensor, and even the water temp sensor since there are several that will fit but only one that right for a particular application. Not only check the function of these items but also make sure that they have clean, tight electrical connections. How old is you catalytic converter?

Oh, I don't know. I'd just rather have hoses that work. I also like OEM but as far as the things that can cause problems, I'll take functionality over originality. I guess that would also depend on what the vehicle's use is. I've seen people pay a premium price on eBay for original hoses. But would you trust 30 year old hoses on a daily driver?

This all seems kind of strange to be at odds over. Obviously, since I notice that your'e talking about different parts of the country, the amount of S30's you would see would vary. I'm in So Cal and I see them on the roads quite often. I also see them in the junkyards. But I can't assume that the situation would be the same in New Mexico, Minnesota, Arkansas, Oregon, etc. Lots of nice examples of all of them exist out here. My 280 is in the midst of it's second life as are the majority of the Z's I see out here. But, that's out here. Each of you probably have the right assesment of the area you live in as far as S30's go.

I do remember Elvan (my friend w/the Z shop) saying that the aftermarket hoses are better since the technology is better than the original ones which were made 25+ years ago.

Just out of curiosity, what freon do you run in that system?

Those look like the originals with the braided covering. I changed the heater core and valve in my 78 about a year and half ago. That's what the old hoses looked like. The new ones, however, are not braided but they do have the proper bends. I got them through a friend that has a Z shop in Upland, Ca. but I don't actually know where he got them. As I recall, they were only about 11 bucks. After all that work there was no way I was going to put the old hoses back in! Order them, they'll be money well spent!

I thought we had a thread on this earlier. It seems that there was a voluntary factory recall that involved some kind of rerouting of those hoses. So there are a couple of different ways that they hoses may be set up depending if you car had the modification or not. I found the thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18212

Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning

Mine worked fine until about two months ago. Compressor went out. I think I mentioned in another thread that I was able to find all the parts although I might have bought the last condensor and the last two receiver/driers available in the US for an 810. Compressors, evaporators, and expansion valves you can still get. All I have to do now is isntall them but, as I probably also mentioned, I am a certified MVAC tech.

You named the advantages in your post plus the one that kurtwwalters mentioned and I can't think of any disadvantages. If you have it on your car, I would keep it.

Well, I've never had a problem with fuse boxes in either of my cars or the old truck for that matter. I periodiaclly check the fuse box for corrosion, and tension on the clips. I clean them with contact cleaner and then spary them with corrosion inhibitor. The problem at the fuse box doesn't necessarily originate there. It's more likely elsewhere in that circuit. Really tough to trace but you should check all connections on that circuit. Aren't these old cars fun? I once thought of using the fuse box that MSA sells and splicing it into the system in my 810. That fuse box uses the modern type spade fuses. But since the circuitry is different, that would have probably been a nightmare to do so I passed on the idea. If they ever start making one for a 280Z or ZX I might look into it again.

Whatever! If you had been a bit more clear I wouldn't have even answered. Who even worries about releasing the fuel pressure on a carbed car. If I 'dont know read very well or something....' as you so eloquently put it, maybe you need to write more clearly and then you wouldn't have to come up with such a response. Hang in there, one day you'll get it. Can't wait to hear your response!

I'd have a hard time fitting just the twin turbos under the hood of my 320 without the engine!

I guess everyone has their favorites. But use one that does not have silicone. I use the 'Tool Crib' products. Electric Motor/Contact Cleaner and 5 Way Corrosion Inhibitor & Lube used in the same way that Tomohawk mentions.

Does a Supra have a frame? I would expect that much power to tweak the car like a pretzel just as it does in V8 Z conversions that haven't been sub framed.

Sounds good though I don't know about the pearl white paint unless the car has be repainted. Consoles and shifters are available. How does a car get sold behind your back without permission?

I must be one of the few that has never had a problem with my clock. It worked when I bought the car in 1997 and it's still working. Maybe my time is coming.