sblake01

That sounds like the factory system. If so, they can work well as does the system in my 810. If it has a blower to the right of the evaporator which blows through the evap housing and into the center vent which has two hoses that branch out to the side vents. that that's the factory system. It would have a blower motor designed for a heating/ac system. The dealer installed system uses the standard heater motor and the evap sits above the heater core in a housing designed for that application (74-78). Both systems will cool the car more than adequately. I have the dealer system in my Z and the factory system in my 810. They both cool very well. The Vintage Air system, IIRC, has it's own blower motor. I don't have any experience with a V A system in a Z. But the Vintage Air system in my nephew's Chevelle works very well also.

I have the dealer option system in my 78. It does perform well IMO. The 74-78 dealer option system is different from the 70-73 system. The 74-78 system uses a Sankyo SD 508 compressor which is basically the same as the Sanden SD 508 that the Vintage Air system uses. Sanden bought out Sankyo sometime back. The early system (70-73) does have it's drawbacks as Carl points out earlier in this thread. It's more of a 'hack job' appearance wise than the later dealer installed system. I'm a MVAC tech and have been able to make that old York system work fairly well so I'm not quite as down on it as most people. In a 70-73 I'd say that Vintage Air or sometning along those lines would be the way to go. I have no experience with it in a Z but my nephews 66 Chevelle has Vintage air and it will freeze you out. As far as non-factory systems in the 74-78 cars, which I notice you have in your signature, like I said, I have the 'dealer installed' system in my 78 and it gets down to 35 degrees at the center vent. It didn't work well when I got the car, cool but not cold, but all I did was replace the hoses, the receiver/drier, flush and vaccum the system and charge it with R414B, a direct reaplacement for R12 which requires no changes it the system. It's been working fine ever since. Due the politics in the refrigerant industry, R414B, sometimes known as Hotshot, is recognized as a direct replacement for R12 for everthing except mobile air conditioning. It's tough to find a shop that will charge your system with it but since I'm a tech I have access to it.

In my 810 which has factory air, the evaporator is on the right which makes it real easy to remove. I was able to buy new components for that car for less than 400 bucks thanks to OEM surplus (compressor and evaporsator), Standard Air Products (receiver/drier), Master Auto Parts (condensor), and Nismoparts.com (expansion valve).

The early systems have the hose fittings on the right side of the condensor. The later aftermarket systems have the fittings on the left of the condersor, the receiver/drier on the left side, and the evaporator in the center of the car behind the heater control panel. The ones with factory air have everything on the right except for the compressor with hard lines that go accross the radiator support to the rec/drier and evaporator.

The 74-78 factory systems use an idler pulley, the after market ones don't. My 78 has an ARA system with a bracket that allows adjustment of the belt.

The 74-78 systems, both aftermarket and factory, use the second pulley. They also mount low on the left side of the block. I don't know much about the MSA unit but some members here have is so maybe they'll chime in. As far as the York compressors rebuildabilbty (is that a word?), I'm still looking into it.

Now that really clears it up! But, seriously, Ian, I was just playing with you. I knew more or less what you meant. You know how us bored people from the 50s are. Now, that guy smokingwheels, well that's a whole different story. :classic:

I have an old MSA air dam and a BRE rear spoiler on my 78. I don't really notice anything at normal speeds but at freeway speeds and up they seem to keep the front end down. The front end of Zs without a front spoiler/air dam tends to lift at higher speeds.

Well, there are different kinds of glass packs, from moderate to loud. There are mufflers like the Flowmaster Hushpower II that are nice sounding without being excrutiatingly loud like a Thrush glass pack or something along those lines. Check out a place like Summit Racing or Jeg's. The both have a pretty good assortment of mufflers and they both give fairly accurate descriptions of the sound they will produce.

Your system (Tomohawk) is a better system than the old York system in the 70-73 cars. Easy to work on though the evaporator is kind of a pain. I'd rather have the extra 100 pounds and vents that cool to 35 degrees as mine does here in Southern California at least during the summer and early fall.

This is the third time I've read that statement and I'm still trying to understand it.

I dno't tinhk yvo'ue qtiue got teh hnag of it.

I've seen them on eBay. I don't know how well they sell. A Sanden compressor based system with an upgraded blower motor would work much better in a 240 than the original style dealer installed system.

TSP (Tri Sodium Phospate) if you can find the real stuff and oxalic acid are both excellent at removing mildew stains. They don't do much for the smell, kinda like replacing one smell with another, but they do remove mildew.

How could we have been bored with stuff like that around? We also had the hula hoop, the first frisbee, and whatever that stupid thing was that you tied around one leg and skipped over with the other. Yes, I am that old. Isn't Peter Garrett the Australian rock star who became a politician? We also have entertainers/actors over here that become politicians. Hope yours do better.

A/C is always worth it if you're in a climate where it is necessary. I'm a MVAC tech so I have access to freon so the cost isnt that bad for me. I have done a couple of guys 240Z York systems and was able to get them to blow 40 degrees at the vents. Newer systems are a little colder but 40 isn't that bad. The main drawback in the early add on systems wasn't the system itself but the stock 240 blower motor wasn't as powerful as it could have been.

When I got mine it had been sitting for four years and my left rear was stuck. I don't really recommend the way I broke it loose but when we went to pick it up we dragged it a few feet behind the tow vehicle and it broke loose! The shoes were stuck to the drum and dragging them actually seperated the brake material from the metal part of the shoe which allowed me to take the drum off. The minor damage it caused didn't really matter to me because I was planning to replace all of the rear brake hardware including the drums anyway.

Diluted TSP is always good for mildew. You can find it in harware stores with the cleaning solutions or sometimes in the grocery stores.

Like I said, I'm not knocking you, just stating my point of view. I wouldn't do it but that doesn't mean you can't.

Look for Michael Perdue's paint code thread. It just dropped off the front page this morning due in large part to those 3 SFART threads that could have been one or even none if he had searched :tapemouth .

Especially in a home built, hybrid with very little (like no) mention of any safety type modifications. Let's see, so far you have a 400-500 hp SBC, a roll cage, a 6speed trans and plans for a new rear end. What about brakes, suspension, aerodynamics (mentioned extensively here as a definite problem at that speed), and driving skill. I'm not knocking your driving skill, I don't even know you but who really has enough skill to drive a car on public roads at that speed with all of the potential varibles and dangers? You'd be relying on luck. Dream on, rock on!

Rghit hree no tish stie!

Yeah, but it's been done on this site before.

And the example for 510 blue is mine.

I'd like to see that one.