sblake01

Never heard of that before.:surprised

In a way, you are telling your age in each one of your posts in this thread. You were a Z fan before you were 2 weeks old? Commendable! I don't 'run the wheels' off of my old Z car anymore because I would like it to be around for as long as I am. Parts are expensive and getting harder to find. Drive and enjoy your car, xtce, if it's crap then so is mine (78) but I disagree with that assesment.

Where do you plug in an mp3 player on an old school Sony cassette deck?

We talked about that one in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24542&highlight=BPE

What I said was based on my experiences with the California DMW. Since he's in Calfornia I thought it would be of some use. I can't speak of other states. As far as the car itself, like you say a $500 car is a $500 car.

In California, you'd most likely have to pay those four years of registration unless he's paid for a certificate of non operation for each of those years. The only other option is a salvage title but that's not such a great option since it would give you insurance problems and pretty much kill the value of the car.

I'd really appreciate that. An important note: only the ones for a 2dr. (7/78-9/79) will work. 4dr. and wagon are different.

Remember there was also a 1600 and 1500 roadster. Not sure about the 1500 but the 1600 had 38mm carbs. But yours aren't roadster carbs. Both roadster carbs would have the float chambers on the same side.

Agreed, but my main point was that it's niether a tiger nor a griffin.

The yellow one has more miles than the BPE, doesn't have the stripe kit, which is NLA, but I think they're both very nice. The BPE has everything including the optional wheels and to me it should be priced higher than the Zap. Essentially, w/o the stripes, the Zap is just a yellow 77 280Z.

Now if someone could just find me an OEM NOS front windshiled for a 1979 Datsun 810 2dr. hardtop. I'd even settle for a used one in good shape.

Mine is wood grain. Too cold tonight to go out an take a picture. If you mean OEM when you say NOS remember that these are all aftermarket.

Which Maxima? The L24E powered Maxima (80-84) as well as the 810 (77-80) use the same spark plug as the L28E powered 280Z and 280ZX. At least here in the US.

What's the difference? If one know's the truth and omits it for the purpose of potentially achieving a higher selling price, how does that differ from a lie? Dean's honesty is refreshing in this day and age especially considering he wasn't shown the same honesty by the seller.

That was my opinion. I don't intend to debate with you. You do what you feel is right.

Interesting attachment. I had forgotten that the rear struts are referred to as 'Chapman' struts rather than McPherson like the fronts. Haven't seen or heard that term since 'back in the day' and I don't really recall what the difference is other that the rears were based on Brithsh racer Colin Chapman's design. And Happy Birthday, Arne! You're now a quintagenerian (sp?) as am I.

Doesn't have anything to do with the question posed as the crux of this thread. I guess us old 280Z guys need to school the young ones, or is that Tomohawk's job.:classic:

My only question would be why are you even in this thread if you don't care for the cars being discussed in it? Much less defending your position? However you wish to see it, you stirred all of this up and I think you have much to learn about this site. Let these guys get on with their discussion.

The assemblies may differ over the years, including the ZX, but the lighter itself is interchangable. I've got a bunch of them. If you were near by, I'd give you one but it shouldn't be a problem to find one.

B6ES-11 is the correct NGK for the EFI cars. The Nissan part number is 22401-P8816.

The check valve on the stock fuel pump is actually the anti drainback device. All the damper does is smooth out the fuel pulse.

It should hold the pressure over night. Theoretically, it should hold it indefinately as long as there are no leaks.

Too bad. That's a really rare piece especially in the USA since we didn't get any cars here with that engine. I would have jumped on that in a New York minute!

If the valve is closed (or stuck closed) the coolant would bypass the core. The second issue would have to do with the vaccum operated mode doors.

If it feels cold when the engine is running then the water isn't getting to the heater core. Sounds like the valve is stuck closed or something is blocking the flow of water to the core. This is from my 78 280Z FSM.