sblake01

I use they type of puller with three arms that clamp on the back of the pulley and a center stud that you turn with a wrench or socket against the crank snout. I bought mine at Harbor Freight. They're fairly inexpensive.

I'm pretty sure that the MG came first. I know that's off topic but it makes more sense than the question this thread is based on. If you want to put that header on your car, do it. It's your car. It's not right but, it's your car.

Sounds to me like the internal regulator is malfunctioning in such a way that it only puts out proper voltage at higher rpm. So you're not getting enough voltage at lower rpm to properly run the car or keep the battery charged. Pull the alternator and have it tested.

I wasn't calling you a ricer. Based on reading through his feedback, that just seems to be who he mainly caters to.

That guy is fast approaching 600 negatives and even more nuetrals. I wouldn't have purchased anything from him. He appears to sell a lot of junk to the ricer crowd who will slap anything on their cars regardless of fit or legality.

Yeah, but a starting bid of $10K with a reserve that's even higher? I'll pass.

It just says L28.

1 and 2 sound like some fact and a lot of opinion. 3 is for the most part true. 4, well, they're really not all that complex though most people, especially on this site seem to think so. Even those who own them. That's the opinion I get from reading the posts on EFI problems on this site. I have given aswers to problems people have posted here on EFI problems only to watch the thread turn into some perverse form of rocket science only to end up being solved by what I suggested in the first place. 'Aging man with aging car' comes to mind. And he never did what I suggested. I even sent him the part...free! These cars aren't that complicated. Not to me. I have compiled enough EFI parts to keep both my 78 280Z and my 79 810 running for as long as it would matter to me. Also, FWIW & JMO

My car is a California car and the tag says 170HP. The warning light says 'FLOOR TEMP' and it's located to the left above the center vent.

My nephew put long studs on the back of his custom 72 Chevy pickup. And drilled 6 holes(!) to remove and install them. When I explained to him that one hole would have done it, he look at me and said "oh, yeah". Kids!:stupid:

That's why I put 'brand new' in apostrophies.

From the article: It must have seemed like a good idea in 1957 but the technology didn't exist to do it properly, apparently.

This was posted by Alan T. about three years ago.

What I meant to say was 38 years.:stupid:

That's what I was thinking too. In that list of mods there's no mention of oil pump, crank/rods, valve train, etc. You know, things you might do to make an engine live at higher rpms.

On the drivers side, under the hood, between the windshield washer bottle, and the strut tower, there should be a metal tag that states your cars engine capacity, hp/rpm, wheelbase, engine type and chassis number from top to bottom.

I'd say, if it's in good enough condition, go for it. You're talking about trading a 280 for a Vette. Not knocking 280s, I own one. I wouldn't trade a nice 240 for a 77 Vette but a 280, yes. That, of couse, it totally dependent on the condition of the Vette. 350 Chevys are a lot easier and less costly to hop up than L28s.

Why? Imagine a 'brand new' 240z being unearthed after....say almost 28 years........

Interesting story: http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20070615/ap_on_re_us/buried_belvedere

Somewhere in that combined statement lies the answer to your problem. Have you done anything to your engine to allow it to sustain 8000 rpm runs w/o damage?

All lights, guages, door switches, etc. work proprely on my Z as well as on the 810 and even the old 64 pickup.

I wouldn't drop the tank unless it was necessary. Mine had been sitting for over four years when I got it. It had low fuel pressure caused by crud in the tank from sitting cloggging up the lines. I actually replaced the tank as good ones were available ten years ago. But if the car isn't showing the symptoms, I'd leave it alone. Nor do I agree with changing all of the injectors if only one or two are bad. The injectors are pretty simple. Either they work or they don't. As long as they are clean and electrically sound I'd leave those alone too. I'll address a problem with my cars when there is a problem but I don't like throwing parts (and money) at problems that don't exist.

I don't 'love them'. They are what they are. Mine are clean and original w/good corner rubber and I don't see a need to change them. JMO.

You might also need this. Those other diagrams are for the vacuum lines in for the HVAC system. This one shows all the engine piping, vacuum lines fuel lines, etc. It's in the Engine Tune-Up section of the 77 FSM if my scan isn't clear enough.

Nice Z, love the silver, but the pic should be a little bigger so we can see the detail. I blew it up but you should shoot them at higher resolution.