sblake01

From the rust I can see in those pictures, the repaint, not so clean engine, aftermarket air cleaners, etc. and the fact that it's a 73, that's not a $4500 car IMO.

My favorite comment: You can't hide anything from an eagle-eyed cop.

Three jaw puller and my impact wrench. Works every time and I haven't damaged a drum yet. If you use that method, thread a couple of lug nuts on opposite studs beacause sometimes they really pop off with some force.

I've done a lot of business with them. Unless it says 'currently in stock' that just shows that it's a good part number. To find out whether or not it's available you'd have to contact them.

Fuel pump check vavle can cause that. It's the valve on the fuel pump that will only allow fuel to flow in one direction. Also, leaking injector(s) or any other fuel leak but you would probably notice driveability problems and/or fuel smell. Part no. 17014-N4225 Not sure if they're still available. When I needed one for my 810 I went to the junkyard.

My standard clock in my 280Z works fine, doesn't lose time and the same goes for my 810 though it's digital and considerably different fron a Z clock. I might have to contact Barbara Billingsley to translate what WingZro said.

And this was all said with no disrespect intended? I don't. But don't bother answering to me. You aren't the first nor will you be the last person I don't agree with. We could try to get back on topic but the topic has been pretty much lost in all of this and I'm done here. I have no plans to buy either car. So my opinion is of little importance.

So then I guess it's okay for you to also be disrespectful in voicing your opinion that someone has been disrespectful to you. Rock on, Mckrack!

Oh yeah. A leaking injector will dump gas into the cylinder as long as you have fuel pressure even with the car turned off.

Well, I used to get his name wrong when refering to him until I understood that is has to do with the automobile and not the first letter of the Greek 'alpha'bet.

Also, I get a lot of IE script errors while on this site but I'm sure Mike is working on that also.

I was post #2 I did but apparently not close enough. (going to my room now also......)

That may be true but, aside from Ron in Canada, no one in this thread so far resides outside those borders, except you. I still stand by that quote. As far as the worldwide thing goes, that's all good to know and I enjoy reading about it but it just doesn't apply in this case. I'm not attempting to be narrow minded or 'Americacentric' or whatever the term is. It's just that we (there's that word again!) were talking about American market cars for sale in America.

I think we all knew that we were discussing those two cars on ebay in the US and things in general relative to them. At least for the first 29 posts.

I knew that because I'd been through it myself as I stated in post 7 and 10. You stated the paramaters, I gave a solution, based on actual experience. But, as usual, things like the combusibility of gasoline and the internal workings of the internal combustion engine had to be debated along the way.

I like hearing someone else say that as I've said that myself many times. I always tell my wife the I 'get' Datsun. I've worked on other cars but my success rate is much higher with Datsuns, at least with the ones I've owned.

Fair enough, no fighting, but you're wrong.

About 2100 miles round trip. Upland, Ca. to Portland, Or. and back about eight years ago. The most miserable drive I ever took in a Datsun was from West Covina, Ca. to Goodyear, Arizona and back in my 1964 L320 pickup. About 700 miles round trip.

Well, that's just Tomohawk's narrow mind. I remember some similar comments in a similar thread about a year ago. All Datsun branded automobiles that came to the US were built in Japan. In the last 15-20 years, as you state, Honda, Toyota, and Nissan built most of there cars here. A little more fact and a little less opinion, please.

I also disagree with that statement having been through that. Same scenario and a new injector solved the problem.

http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20070620/ap_on_re_us/crushed_hot_rods

How do you know the injector is good? Even if you're getting a signal to the connector, the injector could be just dumping gas instead of opening and closing. BTDT. You say you have good compression at that cylinder and you're getting a signal to that injector so the only thing that could be at fault is the injector itself. Can you hear it clicking? Is it the same sound as the others? I use a mechanics stetoscope to listen to them. That coupled with a little apparatus I came up with that consists of a 9 volt battery, some wire, a momentary push button switch, and an injector connector.

I've used them with no problems.

The CD is much better. More easily searchable, can be zoomed in, has bonus info, etc. And it only has one bad page!

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