sblake01

Barrett Jackson is not a good venue for Japanese cars.

The dropping resistors get their signal from the EFI main relay.

I know you said L24 but I'll chime in here anyway. When I got my 78 back in 1997 I set out to 'refresh' the engine, even though the car had under 42K when I got it. It had been sitting for almost 5 years. WIAI struck me! By the time I was done I have new pistons, rings, bearings, .040 overbore, a performance valve job, balance and blueprint, etc. not to mention a 83 ZX 5 speed and 2+2/Turbo clutch. Do they 'need' balancing and blueprinting? Probably not for a street car but I do love the way it runs and at nearly 100K now, it still feels new. But, like Randy said, not cheap. Even with all of the assembly being done by myself I ran up a pretty hefty parts and machine shop bill. Different approach on the 810. It ran good when I got it so I basically left it alone. (for now)

That can only be the sending unit or the guage itself. I would lean toward the guage since a bad sender usually won't cause that surge to maximum before it dies off.

You might not be clear on the term 'evaporator'. It's located under the dash and the capillary tube sits between the fins of the evap to sense the temperature. You want it to shut off if the evap starts to freeze up. It will save your system. Which system do you have? Is you compressor upright or rotary? If it's the typical aftermarket system as there was no factory air in the US in a 72, it will look something like this. To get to the evaporator, you'll have to open the case. Make sure that drainage tube is not blocked because that could be the source of your problem as Ron earlier stated.

Some will find it helpful but I already knew that. I had a Subaru clutchpak lsd in the last 510 I owned. The ratio (3.7) wasn't that great especially with a 5 speed but I could cruise all day on the freeway with that setup but I always had to shift back to 4th or even 3rd to pull a hill.

The voltmeter should register voltage even when the ignition is off so it doesn't go through the ignition relay. I would check and clean all of the electrical connections at the guages and the relays. Sometimes that ends up being the only problem.

I'm assuming that he has the aftermarket system and they generally don't have pressure switches.

Rack location on the S130 (on the ones that have racks, the earlier ones had cam/lever steering) is behind the axle and on the S30 it's in front. Would require a lot of fabrication if it could even be done.

That is what Ron is telling you. AC systems have a capillary tube that senses the evaporator temperature. At the other end of that tube is a switch that sends power to the compressor. If the evaporator gets too cold or freezes up, the compressor will shut down until the evap temp is back within operating range.

I'll be turning 100K soon in my 78. I'm at 98330. It had 41500 actual miles when I bought it 10 years ago. It had sat for almost five years at that point. So roughtly 5600/5700 miles per year since I've had it and most of that what the year or so I used it as a daily driver. Oveall, that's only about 3400 miles per year from it's beginning. I consider that to be fairly low mileage but Arne and Randy are both way, way ahead since their cars are older.

That would depend on which ones don't work. A bad ignition relay can cause the temp/oil and the fuel part of the volt/fuel not to work. I've had that happen. The clock is seperate and has it's own symptoms. Fuses can cause them all not to work as well as dirty connections. There is not just one thing that will cause them all to fail at the same time. Do you have a FSM? There's a guage section somewhere in the Body Electrical section.

Althougn my posting this won't help in accomplishing it, we need to just let this on drop out of sight from the front page.

No rivets there. Ten screws like the one shown in your center picture are what holds that panel on in my 78. That being the case, the holes are too small to use the rivets and that's the source of your discomfiture. Tighten the screws lightly or the washers will cut into the fabric.

The plastic gear that that lever moves may have broken. That happened to my 78 a few years back and I ended up replacing the whole control assembly.

Is that the only mistake you feel that you've made in this thread?

I don't think anyone her doubts that. It's obvious that Nissan doesn't give a damn about an S30, 510, 610, 810 or anything with the name Datsun on it. When you go to the car shows, and I specifically mean the classic or nostalgic ones, you see booths set up by Toyota, Honda, Mazda, etc. from the companies. But from Nissan, it's just the vendors. Nothing from the company itself. When they dropped the name Datsun in roughly 1982, that was the end of it. They make it obvious that there is no Datsun now. It's been that way for a while so it's not news. I just don't get all of that other stuff. Tounge-in-cheek or not, it just comes off as poor taste to me.

I think he simply means 'cotter' pins.

Sounds familiar. When I bought my 78 about ten years ago it had the same symptoms. I did basically the same things you did. Ultimately it did end up being the tank. You can continue to clean the fuel lines and it will run for a while but to cure the problem you'll have to clean or replace the tank. I thought I had it solved a couple of times before I dropped the tank but as soon as the stuff got stirred around enough it would clog up and stall.

The rear section still raises up for access to the spare, etc. as shown in my earlier post. I don't have a need for the luggage straps as I don't carry luggage in that car.

There may be a connection here. I used a Geico insurance reference. Mercury insurance runs commercials that suggest that they may be from the planet Mercury.

Might be. I do a lot of 'junkyarding'. Anyway, it wasn't really necessary and it looks better without it.

I think that came from a Ford Taurus.

No coffee cup, toys, soccer balls, etc. when I drive and my cell phone is in my pocket. My stereo system is all adequately secured mainly to avoid the vibratrion associated with a higher power sytem but it will also prevent the 'projectile' syndrome. Like you say though, at thay point, there would be other concerns.

I'm happy w/my setup. And it sounds much better than the MSA box. I sold that thing about 6 years ago. I now have a 12" Kenwood sub, 4 Pioneer 6 X 9's, 300 W amp, round Pioneers in the stock location below the quarter windows, and tweeters on the winshield pillar moldings. In the future, I'm going to lose the CD changer a go with a MP3/Ipod capable head unit. The rear section still raises up for access.