Everything posted by sblake01
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New to me
Condiser yourself lucky. In California, we have to pay extra for vanity plates every year. And I have three sets!
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Bob Sharp Racing Camel GT on eBay
Technically, it's a 260.
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Bob Sharp Racing Camel GT on eBay
Even though it was actually just a pace car?
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First Datsun owner. Socal.
Further: What city are you in, Michael?
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First Datsun owner. Socal.
If he's talking about California, he's in my neck of the woods. I live in San Bernardino.
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Brake Terminology
My 280Z and my 810 both work properly. Hold the button in, pull up the handle a few times, and they adjust. Isn't that what they were designed to do? If they don't, check the hardware.
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Square pipe over a round hole?
If you have both, why not use the one that matches the port shape of the head you'll be using?
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First Datsun owner. Socal.
http://carfiche.com/manuals022/cars/will take you to the manuals page. If it's unavailable, try again later.
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'76 280 Still not starting???
Here's the EFI Bible: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Since you have a 76, this might also be of use to you: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/76sb/1976_280z_S30_Service_Bulletin.pdf
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'76 280 Still not starting???
I've been looking at this thread and your other versions of it and that statement always bothered me. First of all, I dislike the thought of disconnecting the battery while the engine is running. That has never sounded like a wise move, to me. Then it dawned on me. You pulled the positive cable. So, as the engine was dying, any residual current ran through the system unabated/unregulated. If you're ever going to disconnect the battery for any reason, engine running (!) or not, pull the negative cable first (and reinstall it last). I don't know what you zapped/fried by doing that but obviously you did something. If the car ran before you did that and it doesn't now you can rule out fuel related stuff. There are many electrical components in the EFI system and all you can do at this point is careful step by step troubleshooting. Any ideas I could give here would be purely speculative.
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Piston clearance problem. need help!
I don't know about the other years but a 77-78 comes stock with a N47 head and a N42 block and dished pistons.
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Piston clearance problem. need help!
I concur with Darrel. Get that car away from that mechanic! If an engine had carbon build-up so bad it was hitting the bottom of the head it would run worse than 'truckish' if at all. Don't pull that head just yet. Replace the air cleaner boot, properly adjust your throttle valve switch and as far as the fuel pump goes, though I don't like aftermarket fuel pumps, the pressure is regualted by the pressure regulator not the fuel pump itself. If it was 6 psi below where it should be I'm not sure it would run at all. Check the fuel pressure with a guage inserted between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. It should read between 36-37 psi. As Darrel said, run some Seafoam through the brake booster hose which will clean the combustion chambers as well as the tops of the pistons (instructions are on the can) and see where you are then.
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AC vent insulation
Well, I work on this kind of stuff quite often (see signature) and I've found that there is no reason to overthink it. My vent temps in the 78 280Z and the 79 810 get down to the mid 20s F with the basic insulation I mentioned above and the ducting from the AC shop.
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AC vent insulation
I've used the adhesive backed closed cell foam insulation to seal the vents, evap. housing etc. which I've purchased at ACE Hardware and the ducting is available in various diameters at most AC shops.
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1980 280zx10 Black Red 8,732 Miles 1-owner
Besides, you don't keep your word. from 5/09/2007 and the name is Blakeney!
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post your joke of the day! :lol:
I'd have to agree with you, Rick when I compare the direction my life was going in before I met Daisey to the present. Maybe that's a little to serious for a 'joke' thread?
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Short throw
OOPS! Me too! Although a short throw kit can also be put on a a 5 speed regardless of cam, etc.:classic:
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1980 280zx10 Black Red 8,732 Miles 1-owner
You agree to what? That BJ isn't a good venue for Japanese cars? Okay then, what does the condition of the car have to do with that? The more miles you put on it, the less it's worth. I really don't see the need a running mileage update. The majority of your posts here concern the sale of that car. Are you really generating any interested buyers from here? I hope you sell it but I'm really tired of hearing about it.
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Nothing special about the 350z?
I get your point. That's basically how I feel except don't care much for anything after the S30. Nissan's present day success or lack thereof has nothing to do with that.
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Short throw
I just meant that with a 4.11 or 4.37 rear, a 4 speed would be okay for driving in the city but you'd need a 5 speed to drop the rpm at freeway speeds. I'd stay away from the 240z heads like the E31 if you intend to keep the EFI.
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Short throw
That combo would be more 'fun' with the stock cam than a 4 speed. The main reason I'd use that five speed with a 4.37 is that it would still allow you to drive on the freeway at roughly 1000rpm less at 70mph.
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Short throw
Don't know the cutoff date. My 78 has an R200. If you do put a 4.37 in, you'll definately want a 5 speed, preferrablay a 81-83 ZX (not the T5) with the 25.5% overdrive 5th gear. I have one of those in my Z and another one on a stand waiting to go into the 810.
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Short throw
You got to get that girl a 5 speed!
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Help with clutch
Glad you got it fixed. So basically, your slave cylinder took a dump. It happens. I've done enough of those over the years that I could probably change one in the dark.
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Help with clutch
What 'cable' and what 'ring'? I don't recall anyhing like that from any of the many times I've worked on S30 or any RWD Datsun clutch.