sblake01

Throwing out the L20A, I've always seen ratings of 151, 162, 170 for the three USA L engines (L24, 26, 28E) prior to 79 where the rating method changed and the L28E was rated at 145. A 78 810 is rated at 154 and a 79 810 is rated at 120. Same L24E different rating method.

Since I couldn't edit fast enough, but before I went into what I was saying in the last post, I should have asked what's not working, spark plugs or injectors?.

Wires number 15, 33, 32, 14, 30, and 31 are from the ecu to injector 1-6 respectively. While wires 37, 38, 40, 41 are injectors 1-4 to dropping resistor 1, and 55, 56 are injector 5-6 to dropping resistor 2.

When was the changeover? 81 or 82? 78 and earlier cars, from what I've seen, don't say 'Nissan' anywhere on the outside of the body. I notice that the 79 and 80 cars like my 810 have badges on them like 'Datsun 810 by Nissan' etc. I've seen cars marked 'Datsun 810-Nissan Maxima' with one each badge on either side of the trunklid. I think that's on the 81 or 82.

I just don't get that. As said before you could go to the expense of getting an LD28 crank, I don't know where you'd get the pistons but anyway all that expense to end up with an undersquare 2.7 or 2.8 or just get an L28. Not knocking what you say. If you spent the same money a stroked 2.4 or 2.6 would cost you could build a screaming non-stroked L28. To each his own.

I believe mine were Motormite. Mine never seemed to be all that strong and over time I had to raise them all the way up or the hatch wouldn't stay up. That was my one and only experience w/aftermarket lift supports. Regardless of what the ad says, they are somewhat universal as evidenced by Dave's post. When I said 'cheap' I meant to imply that he was overcharging for them and you can find them virtually anywhere for less.

Looks like a cheap Kragen Auto, Autozone, Pep Boys universal fit type replacement. And if you have an early single strut hatch, those won't do you any good. I bought similar ones back when I had my 1992 Nissan NX1600 and they started to get weak after about 8 months or so.

As far as the 'electric stuff' goes, I like it and wouldn't have it any other way but that's my choice. I consider myself fairly adept at it. My advice, however, is don't attempt to install the 280Z EFI on a 240 or 260 unless you fully understand the system and have the skills. Even then I'd be against it. So many things have to be changed on the car virtually from the front bumper to the rear including the gas tank, fuel lines, etc. besides all the electronics which is a whole different story. I have 25+ years experience fiddling with 280Z EFI and I wouldn't attempt to install it on a pre EFI car. Keep the carbed cars carbed and the EFI cars EFI'd(?!). Well you get my drift.

Or straighten the one you have and put it in a frame.

I was going with the simplest solution first. Those bushings are usually worn or even missing on many cars I've looked at plus he says he feels play and can move the shifter up and down. That and the fact that he's had the car long enough that a leaky slave or master would probably be past the point of driveability by now.

No, it should be pretty solid. Sounds like the two side bushings are worn pretty badly or gone. MSA should have them but their numbers will be different as those are OEM Nissan part numbers I listed.

I order a lot of parts from Bruce Titus Tacoma Nissan in Washington state through nissanparts.cc. They always know what I'm talking about (even when I don't!) they have many oem parts in stock and thier prices are always lower than list. And they'll look up parts if you don't have a part number.

If I go to a Nissan dealer for parts, and I seldom do, I go armed with part numbers. Some dealers are better than others but none of the ones local to me seem to have a clue when it comes to Datsun.

What would non Z enthusiasts know about the L28? People don't stroke the L24 or the L26 because they have an 83mm bore and can't be safely taken to 89mm which the stroker setup is based on. Only the L28 blocks can be safely bored to 89mm. I'm guess that with enough time and money, and if you could find the pistons to fit an L24 or L26 with an L28 diesel crank, it could be done, but the L28 based 3.1 liter stroker that is so talked about, is based on parts that do exist and can be readily found although the cranks are getting harder and more expensive to find. Horsepower rating is another story altogether. Different methods of measuring hp were used on Datsuns starting about 1979. But that's a whole different discussion for which you should defer to the search feature. My 78 is rated at 170hp which is higher than any rating you'll find on any US 240 or 260. Stick around. Learn. It sounds to me like you need to forget most of the things you've heard elswhere.

You most likely need to replace these. 32855-H1010 which is a bushing that goes on either side of the shifter, you'll need two, and 32861-N4200 which goes on the bottom, you'll need one.

The 3.1 litre stroker is based on a L28 block because it requires a 89mm which is a 3mm overbore. L24 and L26 blocks would have to be bored 6mm to get to that. Probably wouldn't work. If you don't wan't a 280 or 280ZX motor as you say but you want a stroker and want to keep the straight 6, I'd say your options are ZERO.

But you may not in a panic stop situation.

Also, I've noticed that the 77-79 5 speeds have two mounting ears on the bottom of the tail housing for exhaust clamps and the 80-83 (84 if you count the RWD Maxima) only have one on the left side.

Okay, I'm convinced! I just said that I'd never seen one (a BPE w/o SAP) and, like I said, I spent a lot of time around the Datsun dealerships back then and even worked at one (for a minute-as the saying goes) if you call washing/detaining cars working. Basically, I was such a pest to them, they gave me a job.

You could download the 77 280Z or 82 280ZX manual from carfiche.com. That would basically cover the early and the late trans. I don't think the 5 speed is covered in the 76 280Z FSM. http://carfiche.com/manuals022/cars/

No naysayer here. Never said I didn't like them they're just not for me. This 'pop' doesn't drive the kids around anymore since they're out on their own and driving their own cars and 'mom' which I guess really would also be 'grandma' is the daily driver of the mom and pop vehicle.

I've refreshed a couple of 5 speeds myself and presently have one I'm working on for the 810. They're really not that difficult to work on. I just follow the FSM and the transmission tech tips from Atlantic Z. Both of the one's I've done in the past are running smooth and quiet, no leaks, etc. I'm hoping to have the same luck with the one I'm working on now.

Possible. That would do it. It would run until it ran out of fuel from the cold start valve but it's all uncharted waters for me. I've worked on many an EFI S30, 810, 910 (RWD Maxima) and have never run into what Chris'sZ is encountering.

Imagine what a true, documented BPE non SAP would be worth. If they did exist the production numbers would have to be pretty minimal.

Yeah, and I decided to just leave it at that. He would not have liked my answer!:devious: