sblake01

You can also go this route if you have any similar shops in your area. http://www.ctintl.com/ They sell used long blocks imported in containers from Japan. Typically, they'll have under 40K miles, 6 mo/6K mile warranty on internal parts, compression tested/tagged, and steam cleaned. This particular shop sells a L28/F54 long block for $550 + $50 core. I have used their engines in the past and still have one in my 320 pickup (J16) that's been running well for almost 9 years.

Here's a couple from the May 1974 Road & Track of the US version:

My car stays on the right corner of the 'E' with the AC on during a 100+ degreee day. Is your thermostat OEM or one of those with the smaller opening? Is your guage temp unit the correct one for your car? (The term 'temp sensor' is normally used for the EFI cars)

For the frist two years or so that I owned my present Z I didn't even know it had a key-in buzzer but I really wasn't too concerned about it. One of my projects back then was to go through all of the electrical connections one by one and clean, repair or replace them as necessary. I had been having problems with the turn signals working intermittently, the heater blower only working on high speed, stereo would stop working then mysteriously start again, guages acting up, etc. When that tedious job was finished, not only did everything work as it should but the key-in buzzer returned and still works to this day. I'm not sure what made it work since I went through everything but it might just be a questionable connection somewhere in that circuit.

Hey Steve. That tranny is for my 810. It's out of a 83 ZX so it has the 25.5% od fifth. Should get me a little more freeway mpg. How's your 810 doing? Like I always tell people, you'll see more Skylines than 810 coupes.

You have to click on 'Datsun 280Z' in the 'My Sub Albums' box. Or just go here: http://s209.photobucket.com/albums/bb100/1975_280Z/Datsun%20280Z/

I just plugged and/or sealed the openings, sprayed it with Gumout Steam Premium, let it sit for a couple of hours then sprayed it with my pressure washer.

The Sanden SD508 is simply a better compressor than the upright York. The main problem with the 'York' system is the design. It pulls the cold air through the system rather than pushing it like most factory systems. Using a rotary type compressor will make that system cooler but it won't ever be as cool a a system with a center mounted evaporator. I don't think the bracket is reversible. I don't have a picture of the Sanden on the driver's side on a 240Z but here are the others. York on driver's side: York on passenger side: Sanden on passenger side:

That 'month of idle time' would give that oil time to really 'cure' on the plugs and foul them to the point where it won't start. When you're driving it more often the plugs will burn a lot of that off allowing it to run even though you need rings.

See post #9.

I can't think of a comment that would uphold the good taste I generally try to display here, so I'll just go with 'ahhhh.......what?':eek::classic:

As an addendum to my last post, I use Kyosho #5000 silicone oil rather than the Toyota silicone oil recommemded in the link. It's available at any hobby store that deals with RC cars, comes in 40ml bottles instead of 18ml, costs less and works just as well.

Dan (Rockr69) alluded to the fact that I know how to rebuild fan clutches, which I do and have done successfully, but I can't take credit for the knowledge. My info came from here: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/FanClutch/FanClutch.htm

I've noticed that the factory alloy wheels on the Infinitis like the J30 we had and the Q45 my daughter in law had are 'sided'. I never knew that until the kid at the tire shop that put the new tires on the front had inadvertantly switched them. We didn't leave the shop until he fixed it. I was pretty obvious with just a quick glance.

What Dan says is also true on my car. The compressor will only come on with the top lever in the Off or Vent position, with the fan lever on at any speed, and the rotary control out of the off position. I had to change out the control panel once but I didn't note how it was set up. I just plugged everything back in as it was before.

That's a great price for a fairly low VIN 240Z! I couldn't see the defroster lines in the pictures. I once owned HLS3000488 which was a 12/69 build date if I recall correctly and it didn't have the defroster (or 'demister' as Datsun calls it). 5/70 should put you somewere in the 03900-04600 range or so.

I've seen those. I don't know. They seem kind of pricey for remakes.

I have a tool that was actually designed to remove hydraulic lifters that does a good job of removing pilot bushings. It just fits inside of the bushing and when I push the button on the hanlde it wedges into it allowing me to pull it out.

Looks to be in pretty good shape and one of the earlier ones. What's your VIN? The '240Z guys' can probably give more accurate info than I, but you car has all the signs of the early cars. The 2400 valve cover and 'OIL' cap, the '240Z' pillar emblems, etc. And it doesn't appear to have defroster lines on the hatch window. Now, this is not a criticism but the first thing I would do is lose those 15" 'Swastika' wheels. Just my personal preference as I don't care for ZX wheels on an S30.

I have a 280 w/aftermarket AC. The blue wire on mine is 14ga. I have seen compressors mounted on either side of the engine compartment on the 240Z aftermarket systems. There are two terminals on the thermostat switch. One draws the power from the switch that turns on the heater fan. The other goes to the switch on the compressor clutch. I don't think it matters which terminal which wire is on since it just passes the signal through. Which side the wire goes through the firewall on depends on which side the compressor is mounted on.

Dave, it sounds to me that with those upgrades a voltmeter would be more useful than an ammeter.

On my 78, i've run it both ways. Presently it has a relay but I didn't notice any problems before I installed it. My electric fan only comes on with the AC. It's in the same circuit that powers up the compressor but it has it's own relay.

Still waiting. I don't see any pics in the link.

Yeah, you've got to drive them at least once every couple of weeks.

I agree, stay with the clutch fan. I have both. I installed an electric fan on my 78 but it's a pusher fan on the condensor for the AC.