sblake01

Just a thought, and forgive me because I've not tinkered with a 240Z radio in years but doesn't the illumination stay on unless you turn the key off? In other words, the radio itself goes off when you press the button but the light stays on unless the key is off. Connect the speakers and see if my recollection is correct or not.

Apparently, it's the product in post #3 that can be used on plastic not the product that Ron linked.

Would that be MC75Z? Michael? I'm sorry to hear of his passing. I recall exchanging pm's with him possibly about a year or so ago about fuel injectors and/or fuel injector connectors. I recall that somehow in those pm's that we realized that were were roughly the same age.

Has the car been driven much lately? How close were the car's test numbers to the allowed limits? If they were close, sometimes all these cars need is some fairly spirited freeway driving before the smog check. You might even try a good in-tank fuel system cleaner. Run the car with the cleaner in the tank until the fuel level is fairly low and then fill it up (no cleaner this time) and then try the smog check again. Like I said, if the numbers were fairly close, either of those should work.

Done! Domo arigato!

Because 'everyone' say so. For years now. Especially Z Therapy and you can understand why they say so. They even suggest you ditch the EFI in favor of their round tops.

Okay, did you change to the 280ZX coil and eliminate the ballast resistor?

Performance. Well the JECS system used on the 280Z/ZX/810/RWD Maxima etc. is inferior to an EFI system with a MAF sensor and modern engine management, but that doesn't mean it can't be made to perform adequately. I.E. decent fuel mileage and drivabality, etc. Flattops can be setup to do that. If we're talking about building race cars that would be another story though some of the hi performance carbs available through Datsun Comp/Nissan Motorsports, though different from the emission carbs, were flat tops. The only thing that makes round tops more desirable is that no one has commercially put any effort into the maintainence, refurbishing, or improvement of flat tops. I have run satisfactorily performing flat tops in the past so I refuse to jump on the 'boat anchor' bandwagon. And PROPERLY set up is the key. I've seen a few cars with badly performing round tops.

My friend and I used to 'de-smog' them back in the 70s-80s when I had carbed cars. I haven't worked on a set of them (flat or round) in years but they did run better without the smog equipment.

You might want to at least give some consideration to jayhawk's post. (#13). I hope he doesn't mind me quoting him in my signature.

When you changed over to the electronic distributor, did you replace the 240Z coil with a 280Z coil? If so, did you bypass or remove the ballast resistor?

I have a Brother P-Touch labler. I did these a couple of years ago and they're still in place and haven't come off. Kind of blurry in the pictures but you get the idea. These are on my Z. The ones on the 810 actually have the numbers imprinted on the wires.

Cool! Glad it worked for you. The couple of times I've been it that situation, I pulled the trans. Next time I'll try breaking it loose first.

Which do you have?

Here's a thread about injector connectors. If you read far enough, eventually we discuss how I did mine with better and much easier to remove connectors than those for a lot less money. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22929&highlight=BMW+connectors

.....and with a shift lever cut that short.

And from the Ztherapy link: As I have said before, flattops not as good as rountops but can be usable, but this company has always been over zealous in their bad mouthing of flattops. I'm sure that that's in part that they don't sell or rebuild flattops which opens up the market for the 6/72-11/74 cars. I don't work with flattops anymore since I have EFI cars now but back in the late 70s into the 80s a friend and I used to rebuild them and they worked fine. If I could do it (with help-he had the shop) then it can be done. End of story, just my opinion, not trying to open up that debate again. Clean them up and see how they work before you think about roundtops.

I does look like those parts were installed well before the car became ''roughed up".

I's sure he meant 'static timing' i.e. distributor in the right relationship so that the rotor points to #1 plug wire when cylinder #1 it at TDC. The engine doesn't have to be running to check that. However, like I said before, if the car was running before the battery blew, and you haven't done anything to the timing since then, you can rule that out.

My assumption is based on the fact that nothing else has been changed since the battery blew. IF I'd ever been in the same situation, I would have followed the battery/regulator/alternator path in attempting to locate the problem. But with all the tinkering in other areas since that happened, who knows?

Or in it.

I don't have an answer, like I said before, but I don't think timing, spark plugs, distirbutor, etc. would have anything to do with it if the problem was created when you battery blew due to a bad regulator. It has to be somewhere in the starting or charging circuit. Fuses, fusible links, ignition relay, etc. Anything that could be damaged by a power spike or surge.

Well, there's actually four part numbers 55475-21000 up to 4/71, 55475-E8300 5/71 to 7/73, 55475-E4102 8/73 to 11/74, and 55475-N4300 12/74 up. But they all supercede to that last number.

Oh, now I think I understand your previous post. Were you trying to remove the rod and the clip while it's still together? Just push (or pull, I don't recall which) the clip in the direction that will snap it off the rod and the the rod will pull out leaving the clip attached to the handle and that allows you to remove the handle. (after removing the nuts, of course)

Well, I know that the part number is 55475-N4300 because I bought some from Nissanparts.cc a couple of years ago. They were $7.58 ea. according to the invoice. (The show $8.06 now on the site) And, as I recall, that number supercedes the previous two part numbers in the microfiche. Are they still available from Nissan? Now, that's the question. At least that gives you a part number to research.