sblake01

No I wasn't accusing you of poaching. I took a few pictures of that car myself in Temecula. Once I put a photo on the 'net, I don't really care what happens to it as it becomes public domain. I don't even remember where I put them, maybe the JNC site. Anyway, I'm more interested in the car than the picture. Curious about the color choice, etc. I didn't get a chance to talk to the gentleman much while I was there.

Tony, do you know anything more about that car? I was a couple of vehicles down the row from it with my 320 at the show that picture is from but I didn't get to talk much with the owner. I may have actually taken that picture.

I remember the motor wheel. I remember a couple of kids that had one in one of the neighborhoods I grew up in. I seem to recall that it made the bicycle rather difficult to ride and steer becaue of it's weight.

Not enough voltage to properly run the ignition? I'm not sure on carbed cars but on an EFI car low voltage will definately make the car run bad.

That's not a vacuum line, it's a coolant line. The housing that the T screws into on the back of the timing cover is not the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing is on the other side of the head. I think you know that but your description is confusing. The line that goes up from the T wraps around the front of the head and is connected with a small hose to the front fitting on the heater housing that resides below the Auxiliary Air Valve. The Thermal Vacuum Valve screws into the back of the heater housing. The rear fitting on the heater housing is connected to the thermostat housing by the other metal line on the intake with a small hose at either end. Unless you're experiencing leaks there, I'd leave those hoses and lines alone as they are a real pain to deal with. BTDT!

Niether of my cars have what you described. Sounds like a thermocouple for an electric fan setup. Does you car have electric fan(s)?

Since the radiator seems to be the problem the best solution is to remove it and have it rodded out by a shop. You could try to flush it the way you describe, but I doubt if that will really clean it out. It's not that expensive to have done. Call around. At least that way you'll be able to eliminate the radiator from the equasion. A note, however, have the shop inspect it first. Sometimes an old radiator won't survive this procedure.

You can't see down the tubes by looking at the top of them through the radiator opening. If you don't know when the last time the radiator was flushed, and who does except someone who's owned the car continuously for a few years, I'd really suggest removing the radiator and having it professionally checked and cleaned.

A 160 degree thermostat won't make your car run cooler. It just opens at a lower temperature which actually makes the engine take longer to reach it's normal operating temperature. The engine will still seek it's normal operating temperature which is somewhere between 180-195 degrees. Middle of the guage is 185. Why drill a hole in it?

I don't know how to tell them apart. I said that Earl's makes two kinds. You said your's weren't DOT approved. I looked into them about ten years ago but didn't buy them. The guy at the old 'Super Shops' told me about the two different kinds Earl's makes but I ended up buying stock hoses. Maybe you should do a search for Earl's Performance Speed-Flex Brake Lines or Earl's Performance Hyperfirm Brake Lines.

Re-read post #9. If you have Earl's hoses, you obviously have the non DOT Earl's Speed-Flex hoses.

Another note about Earl's stainless steel brake lines. They make two types Hyperfirm, which are D.O.T. approved, and Speed-Flex which are not. I had considered them (Hyperfirm) but I didn't feel that they were necessary for a seldom driven street car.

I was going to comment on that when I first saw this thread. The first thing I did when I bought my Z was the brakes including replacing the lines although with stock ones. The original lines would be nearly 30 years old now (20 when I bought my car).

I posted that one last week in the "Found a new Z-toy at Wal-Mart" thread.

No disrespect meant. Just a general statement.

Sponsored? As in what type of sponsorship? Anyway, this is the link to MSA: http://www.zcarparts.com/ Either link will lead you there.

This one? I'd imagine it still might be out of a 16 yr old's price range. http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/car/426054199.html

I've never owned a Z32 but I did own a 1994 Infiniti J30. Same VG30DE engine, basically. I don't know if I'd put a TT in an NA automatic trans car. If the timimg belt broke, there shouldn't be any other damage. Due to the engine's design, you won't get the 'valve hitting the piston' problem associated with timing belt breakage in earlier engines. I would suggest reparing the engine. At 130K miles, I would do what they refer to the 100K mile service on the engine. That includes the water pump, seals in the front of the engine and heads, tensioners, belts, basically everything that you can get to with the front cover off as well as a tune up. It costs about $1200-$1500 at a shop. Much more if you take it to Nissan. But much less that the proposed TT swap. Find a shop that knows those engines. You'll be happier with the car in the long run. If you really want a TT Z32 buy one. There's more to that car than just the engine.

Same oil pan from 5/71 up to and inlcuding the 78 model year.

I don't need time to think about it nor do I want or have I ever asked for advice from you. If you'd quit trying to bait people maybe you wouldn't get the reactions that you get. Do what you want. I don't really care. That's just an observation, not advice.

The car I was thinking of was 'restored' by Classic Datsun Motorsports (Les Cannaday) but now that I think of it I seem to recall that it had black interior and a front spoiler. Other than that, they could be twins.

Welcome. Since no such thing was ever produced, a 240zx is going to be impossible to find anywhere! Of course you mean a 240Z. We have quite a few members in Texas and hopefully they can chime in and point you in the right direction.

Randy, did that car come from California by any chance? It looks really familiar. It looks like one I've seen at a couple of shows out here.

I would, however, appreciate it if my posts didn't get removed. So this thread is to discudd bullet mirrors. Like it's the first time a thread has ever gone off topic!? We're not allowed to react to the things Mckrack, or anyone else for that matter, says? I keep it cool. I don't rant on and on like I may have a couple of years ago. I basically state my point and move on. I don't envy your job, Mike. You have to deal with everyone here, not easy, I'm sure. But, to create a thread that seems to somewhat cater to what took this thread off topic in the first place? I don't have a solution but I can see why some long time members have gone elsewhere.

The thought of PB Blaster in an area where electrical activity takes place is kind of a scary thought. Besides, the vacuum advance assembly usually doesn't 'stick'. It fails due to the bearings being shot.