sblake01

It could likely be done with the trrans in the car but I've always dropped the trans to replace the rear extension housing seal because I would do the front cover gasket and seal at the same time.

Wouldn't that be 'Enfield' or do you have a British baseball team?

Oddly enough, that looks just like the 57 bulb I mentioned in my post earlier. Referring to the picture in the link, not the video. But I never said 'Sylvania'. Perhaps they (Sylvania) changed the style of their version of that bulb also.

Fairly easy on a 280 once the gauges are out. (I can't speak for a 240-one day I'll learn that) The sockets just snap out and the bulbs twist out and in. The greenish tint comes from the green lens that's in the some of the bulb openings in the gauges.

I know, that's just the old joke. On that same note, did you know that the old C, E1, and J series Datsun engines, like the J16 in my truck, were based on British Leyland's B engine design? They are even prone to leaks in the same places so they're a fairly faithful copy!

From the 1973 FSM: Those aren't typos and the syntax is directly from the FSM. What ae the chanced that these 35+ year old parts are still functional as they were when new. (My syntax souded like Nissan's there, didn't it?) I'd say remove it!

You know what they say. The British drink their ale at room temperature because their refrigerators have Lucas electronics.

You know, I just realized that you're probably about 5 minutes or so away from me.

You're probably binding ont the input shaft. You've got to place a jack under the trans and raise both engine and trans slightly so that the engine is clear of the mounts and when they're both level relative to each other and all of the bolts are out, gently pull them apart.

Well, I have a 78 and the meter illumination bulbs are listed as 57X in the 78 FSM. Could it be that a 72 uses different bulbs than a 78? Looking the the 72 FSM, there's no SAE trade number listed; all it says there is 3.4 watts.

Without going into details, let's just say I also have a contingency plan for un-invited visitors.

I've always run 10w30 in my cars and we regularly top 100 degrees here too.

Exactly! That's why the practice never really made sense to me. (You notice what my present avitar is)

The OEM is a 57. I'm looking at one right now. It says on the side: 'LIFE 12V 3.4W'. It doesn't have the number 57 on it anywhere so you have to look at the voltage/wattage stamped on the side. The 53 and 1445 look the same but are 1.8 and 1.9W IIRC. I had a difficult time finding the 57 bulbs and finally located them when I was working at ACE Hardware.

You need a 74 260Z FSM? Go to this site and download one. It's missing the 'Contents and Forward', 'GI General Information', and 'ET Engine Tune-up' sections but it has everything else. He's got a lot of useful info there and though the scan quality could be better on some of them, they're usable.

Here's your answer posted by member St.stephen about 6 years ago (12/22/2002):

That sounds more like a performance build than a rebuild. One question though...what are you going to do when it's time to smog it?

Is the car new (to you) or is this something that just started happening? Did you recently change or replace the brake light bulbs? Without knowing the history, all I can say is that it sounds like you have a short in the brake light system somewhere (I think you already knew that!) and about all you can do is track through the circuit until you find it. Remove one brake light bulb and then try it and then the other if that doesn't work. Make sure you have dual filament, dual contact bulbs in those sockets and that the sockets themselves are in good condition. That will confirm or elminate the bulbs/sockets as the problem.

The door jamb switches might still be available. I bought a pair a couple of years ago. They had superceded part numbers, 25360-N4400-pass. side and 25360-B6000-drivers side. As I reacall, they cost about 22 bucks shipped.

C is the - side of the coil and B is the + side on a regular setup. I'm not sure how that relates to the MSD.

S30s had the bleeders on the fenderwell side, at least 73-78. I'm not sure on the earlier ones. You probably have a ZX master cylinder. 79-81 ZX master cylinders had the bleeders that face the engine but otherwise look pretty much like the S30 master cylinder. 82-83 ZX master cylinders were totally different from either and had a single resivoir feeding the two sections.

I think -20, even with altitude compensation, is a bit low. I'm at roughly 3800 feet and I only lose about 1.2-1.4 in Hg when I pull a vacuum at home with my pump. My brother lives at a lower altitude and I can get the full 28.3 at his house. The important thing is that it holds whatever vacuum that you are albe to pull.

Well the main thing is to get the excess moisture and air out of the system. Do you have gauges? If so, did it pull down to -28.3 which is the basic guidline?

So that's how they're able to sell those so cheap. My vacuum pump is self contained.

I tend to agree with is said in that link: