sblake01

The hardest part was removing and later re installing the little screw that holds the tripmeter cable. I suppose if you remove the tach first, it would be easier because that would give you access to the rear of the speedo. If you have a dash cap, that also makes it hard to remove either gauge.

Yes that's one of the screws and it comes out forward but there is one more screw under the dash that goes into a bracket that's on the rear of the speedo housing. You'll also have to reach behind and remove the cable and uplug the electrical connection. And don't forget to disconnect the tripmeter reset cable. The FSM say to take the tach out so you can reach behind the speedo but I've done it without removing the tach.

I worked part time at ACE Hardware for 5 years after I retired from Ralphs Grocery Co. In a way miss working there because anytime I needed little stuff like that, I was there. Plus I miss the employee discount.

You might try a hardware store. I used a brass tee with three 1/8" FPT holes with two 1/8' MPT to 5/16" hose barbs.

This link will take you directly to the 1975 Datsun 280Z Factory Service Manual.

What part of California are you in? I notice that your car has heater hose where it should have emission hose. Got to change that soon. Do you have a factory service manual? How does it run?

Well, if I had an 82 ZX that needed frame rails, I think I'd look for another 82 ZX with good frame rails and switch my good parts over to it. Unless your car has sentimental value or is really special, except for the frame rails obviously, there's still too many S130s around to go to that type of expense. JMO.

That link (the word 'here.' in post #6) will take him right to the 77 280Z FSM.

Oh, go ahead and name it, WingZr0! We know but he's new.

I prefer to adjust the valves at operating temperature as per the FSM. I could give my timing figures but they'd differ from yours since I deal mainly with EFI and factory electronic ignition, but due to the Pertronix you have, I would think you could probably move you initial timing up a couple of degrees from the factory setting of 5 degrees BTDC to 8 or so (the EFI cars call for 7 to 10 depending on the year and as high as 20 degrees for the turbo models) but those more familiar with 240Z ignition could give a better answer.

It appears to be from the 77 280Z FSM. If you don't have one you can download one here.

You might also want to connect the two green wires together (if you're changing form an A/T to a M/T) or the reverse lights won't work.

I was going to mention Elvan. Haven't spoken to him for a while but last time I talked to him he was talking about getting out of the business. That would be a shame. I learned much of what I know about the mechanical and electrical aspects of these cars from him. And, what's up with 'izcar'? (Post #3) Another 'Array' or 'fullhouse' type?

Stock vs. stock, and I'm talking about an L24E vs. an L28E, the L24E doesn't pull harder or rev harder or whatever term you like to use. In the case of my two cars, the L24E seem to 'rev quicker' through the gears because the 810 has a 3.70 diff vs. the 3.54 in the Z, same 81-83 5 speed, but the Z will easily outrun the 810. Just my personal observation which may or may not be applicable to this discussion since the Z is lighter, has a larger engine and the 810 is basically a box.

Connect the w/b wires. The green ones are for the reverse light switch.

That scan say's '76 models onwards' so it might only be applicabe to Australian or other non US market models as that certainly isn't the setup in my 78.

In California, 1976 and up has to be smogged every other year. Side note: with a new car, they give you a six year exemption. But for those six years, you still have to pay a yearly 'smog abatement fee' which, in some cases exceeds what you'd have paid for the three smog checks druing that period. We love L.A.!

Haven't seen those in years. That's the type that requires moisture to install, right? Had one on my 510. I've had the type that cling to the glass since the and are usually dark with white lettering but I don't think that's the type you're looking for.

I'm looking at the back of a 78 speedo and a 78 volt/fuel gauge and all of the bulb sockets have their own hot and ground wire. They don't ground to the back of the gauge. If tapping on the dash makes them go on and off, either the bulb is bad or the contacts in the sockets are bad. If the plastic tabs are worn on the socket or the spring or contact in it is bad you can cut one from a spare gauge and splice it in to replace the bad one.

His problem might actually be in the starter interlock system that the 73-74s had. Last I heard, he was addressing that.

Been there...done that. That's how I found out that threre really isn't a seal on the speedometer end of the cable so if the seal in the collar leaks and the o-ring holds, the only other place the oil can leak is behind the guage.

If compared to the 1970 model year, the Corvette's base price was over 5K USD, and IIRC the Thunderbird was higher and also by 1970 the 'bird was more of a full sized coupe than a sports car.

You can reach the bulb socket by removing the glove box. Or at least I can on my 78.

Okay, British Leyland might not be the correct term but many parts from the MGB engine bolt on to a Datsun E1, J13-J15-J16 such as the intake and exhaust manifolds as well as other parts. And like the MGB engine, those old Datsun push rod motors are fairly indestructable.